January 24th dyno day at SP. Second run the tech was not holding the wheel and about 7000 rpm I hear this WHAM! and screeching. I stayed totally calm and just looked at my hatch on the dyno to see that my front wheels had turned full lock to the left grinding the dyno to an abrupt halt and tearing the tread off my tires.

They were all paranoid and were quick to make a bunch of excuses but I wasn't quick to point my finger I just thought its cool the tires were getting low on tread and I planned on replacing them soon.

When I drove the car home the car pulled to left soo hard that I had to turn the steering wheel about 10 degrees to the right to counter it.

I just threw on some new tires and got it aligned today hoping to solve the problem. It drives pretty straight now when I let go of the wheel but the as soon as I give it some gas it pulls to the left again and I have to resort to turning the wheel to the right a little to keep it in line.

What I want to know is it possible that the LSD was damaged resulting in an unequal amount of power to each wheel?

Or do you think the alignment was not done correctly? (They were in a rush to get my car done so they could close. Also the tech who did my alignment showed me the read out of my front camber and they were something like:

left front = -1.86
right front = -2.26

I asked why he didn't make them equivalent but he didn't speak such great english and said that I needed to buy ball joints for $800. I asked him if I already had ball joints and he said yes but these were better. Whatever he meant by that.......

I really hope its just the alignment cuz thats cheap compared to having to replace a Diff and I don't really want to have to go into SP and argue over it if I dont have to.

What do you think?

Thanks

GUM

 

ouch! Could be a few different things. Check the steering rack.

 

keep us updated on this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gumtape_deathmatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Second run the tech was not holding the wheel and about 7000 rpm I hear this WHAM! and screeching.

lI asked why he didn't make them equivalent but he didn't speak such great english and said that I needed to buy ball joints for $800. I asked him if I already had ball joints and he said yes but these were better. Whatever he meant by that.......
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Holy bad dyno run.....

and Holy expensive ball joints! Whatever you do, do not let them give you balljoints for $800! wtf? Maybe that's a typo.

 

so far I have 1 vote steering rack.

anyone else have some ideas?

I really want to get to the bottom of this its pissing me off driving like this.

I'll look into the rack issue but I don't really know how to "check" it w/o swapping in another.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Holy bad dyno run.....

and Holy expensive ball joints! Whatever you do, do not let them give you balljoints for $800! wtf? Maybe that's a typo.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup 250 a piece and he said for all 4 corners. but i know better than that. i was just like sure.

 

bump

 

so let me get this straight, the guy dynoing your car did not hold the wheel while flooring it to 7K? If so, you should get them to fix your car man, don't be scared to raise your voice.

As for the balljoints?...I only remember 4 balljoints in the front (2 on each side)..and as for the back...we don't have balljoints in the rear. But either way, 800 bucks for 4 balljoints?...wtf, I bought one balljoint from Honda for 40 bucks. So 40 x 4 = $160.

If I have given any misinformation, I will edit it..sorry.

 

I say replace the ball joints but do it your self it's not that bad, and it should only cost you around $200 from honda, if that's not the problem well atleast you have new ball joints

 

ball joints dont cost much. i paid 35 at honda

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OOsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">doesnt the ls have different length axles? isnt this just a really bad case of torque steer, since you say it only comes when stomping on the gas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am gradually gasing it not mashing and it didnt do this before the dyno day.

 

I say go back to the shop and raise hell. Make them fix it, they broke it. That's not "normal" dyno wear on your car. That's the guy testing it not knowing what the hell he's doing and tearing your car up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say go back to the shop and raise hell. Make them fix it, they broke it. That's not "normal" dyno wear on your car. That's the guy testing it not knowing what the hell he's doing and tearing your car up. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I am looking for a starting point basically so I have a little more to substantiate my claim when I talk to Mark. He seems like a reasonable guy. Let me see what happens when I contact him. I will keep you all posted.

Thanks for all your replies so far. Let me know if you have any more suggestions.


Modified by gumtape_deathmatch at 1:09 AM 2/12/2004

 

Hey guys just sent Mark aka "miracleXbar" at SP engineering an IM.

Lets see how things turn out.

here is the link and my post on page 6.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=6

 

If they don't do anything, time to take them to small claims court. I am not joking. Get as much documentation as possible from repair shops, and the actual people that dynoed your car. Written statements, get a lawyer.

They should pay for your alignment, tires, and other damage to your car.

 

I'd get the front end off the ground... and check for play and look to see where it is...

Just try to wiggle the wheel on both sides... if the ball joints are played then you should be able to tell...

as far as when you gas it it pulls... it should do that LSD or not... not to mention there's just about NO SUCH THING as a straight flat road... so any minor thing could be pulling it...

I'd take a look (or have someone good take a look) at the front end and guage what's wrong...

As far as your alignment numbers... those are out of spec I believe... They should be closer to 0 I can't remember the ranges right now... but I just got mine done with a before and after print out with the spec ranges there... I'll post it up when I get a chance.

 

OUCH! Yea i was there and saw it happen. There were chunks of tire all over the ground. Good luck resolving this prob man. My friends had problems too but not as bad as yours. My friend with the silver TL got a little scratch on the bottom of his bumper when one of the techs hooked up the straps and it scraped the bumper. The owner said he'd take care of that though. Also, My friend with an RSX and a good amount of mods told them to take his car up to 8800 RPM and they only took it up to 8, and when he asked them about it they told him that their dyno doesnt go that high At about 7900 the power was curving up steeply but you couldnt see anything else since they shut it down at 8000, and the tech guys said it wouldnt have made that much of a difference. Even though even when you're in the car, you can really feel more power being made passed 8000 Now i kinda wished i took my car to the other dyno place that day because the lines on my graph kept cutting out (and no the printer wasnt out of ink ), as with other peoples graphs. THe owner was kool about everything though, he didnt hesitate to tell my friend to get an estimate on the repair for his bumper.


Modified by ThE bEe GuY at 8:48 AM 2/10/2004

 

hmmm, i had a similar problem with my crx. i thought my alignment was way out of wack but it was fine. turned out it was my drivers side axle, it didn't pop around corners or anything just was bad. i took it out and couldn't even move the joint at all by hand. the car only pulled when in the throttle. just something else for you to check.

 

I vote for either steering or bent suspension component somewhere.

It doesn't matter, SP should pay the bill and you get new parts

 

To whom it may concern:

If people on this thread want to spread rumors that's one thing, but if you want to give out information that isn't true, you've got something coming. On the day of the dyno, I put Mat's car on the dyno. On his first run at about 6500-7000 rpm, a sudden turn in his steering occured. Scared the **** out of me, my co-workers, and of course Mat himself. We have never once in our dyno history ever had a problem like this. We have spent countless hours, nights, days etc. etc. using this dyno machine. I had no idea what had happened. My dyno technician, who is skilled in what he does, told me that he noticed that his tires were a lil bald on the inside. Yes, the incident may have caused more damage, but the first thing I asked Mat was, were your tires bald? He said, yes, I have been meaning to change them. This was going to be the last day that I was going to use them. etc. etc. The car was centered, and those who saw me actualy putting cars on the rollers know that it took me 2-3 times on a few cars to get it centered. In our opionion, we believe that the bald tire caught the smooth part and lost traction thus causing it to turn the way it did. I explained to Mat in my IM to him, how can the steering be messed up when the wheel was turned pretty much as far is it would be turned let's say if you were to do a u-turn? And, my dyno technician was dynoing the car correctly. No one can say anything because they were not inside the actual shop when it occured. Everyone was asked to wait outside of the dyno bay area. Besides that, if you guys want to get into legality issues, that is fine. Just remember, all who dynoed signed waivers stating the SP ENGINEERING is not responsible for any damage that may occur on the dyno. I really don't hope that it would have to come to that. I've been a member of this board for quite sometime. I have members through out this board that will vouch for not only me but my company as well. We are not here to rip people off and or damage peoples cars. I am a pretty reasonable person, but this really makes me upset to see all these people who weren't even there talk so much about **** that they didn't even see. Little kids need to grow up.

 

well said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle_X_Bar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To whom it may concern:
...I am a pretty reasonable person, but this really makes me upset to see all these people who weren't even there talk so much about **** that they didn't even see. Little kids need to grow up...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not gonna lie, that sucks...and that shouldn't happen. but for those people who paid, and had problems that no one cared to resolve:

1) My friend rick in his rsx said he wanted his taken to 8800 and has all his pulls cut out @ 7900.
@) myself, for example, who had three pulls taken to 8000 instead of 8300, and the last one taken to 7500 instead of 8000
3) and my friend johnny (the scratched cl) who had his car scratched because the people strapping it in weren't paying attention to what they were doing.

those are three honest complaints. its great that johnny (case #3) his getting his shiet taken care of, which is great. but for myself, and rick...who didn't really get what we paid for. i think thats kind of rotten. especially, instead of strapping us back on and fixing the situation, someone tried to wiggle out of it and say (in ricks case) that the graph wasn't capable of displaying up to 9000 rpm.

so all in all, rick and i paid 45 bucks for something that wasn't done properly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SimbaDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i'm not gonna lie, that sucks...and that shouldn't happen. but for those people who paid, and had problems that no one cared to resolve:

1) My friend rick in his rsx said he wanted his taken to 8800 and has all his pulls cut out @ 7900.
@) myself, for example, who had three pulls taken to 8000 instead of 8300, and the last one taken to 7500 instead of 8000
3) and my friend johnny (the scratched cl) who had his car scratched because the people strapping it in weren't paying attention to what they were doing.

those are three honest complaints. its great that johnny (case #3) his getting his shiet taken care of, which is great. but for myself, and rick...who didn't really get what we paid for. i think thats kind of rotten. especially, instead of strapping us back on and fixing the situation, someone tried to wiggle out of it and say (in ricks case) that the graph wasn't capable of displaying up to 9000 rpm.

so all in all, rick and i paid 45 bucks for something that wasn't done properly</TD></TR></TABLE>

My friend this, my friend that..blah blah blah..Tell your friend to talk to me again because i know for a fact that i explained it to him here when it occured. I told him that the car was taken to 8800 RPM and that it just didn't come out on the graph printout. I still have everyones dynos stored in the computer. That's great if the car still makes power towards and past 8000, we know that cuz we dynoed it past 8000. The numbers your friend put out are average numbers for all the RSX's we have dynoed. I'm tired of everyone speaking for their friends...if people have a problem, come to me. Don't send your publicists!!

 

cool.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miracle_X_Bar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool. </TD></TR></TABLE>

cool as in i'll provide you the info that it was taken to 8800?