Hi,

I friend of mine is looking at installing a 16 Volt system on his all-motor CRX and removing the alternator. I am wondering if anyone can offer any tips, and also answer a few questions for us..

1) What is the smallest, lightest battery you would use on an All-Motor Civic, and still be able to maintain enough power for the warm-up (Once in the lanes), burn-out, run and return. People keep ptelling us t use a pretty big battery, but we are trying to reduce the weight at the same time.

2) When about to make a pass with a 16volt setup, just we turn all of our tuning gauges etc off, and just keep the Tach and our warning lights?

3) Are there any links or pages which will show me more information on installing a 16 volt setup.

4) Which brand do most people use for this purpose.. I usually see the domestics using the REG battery (Powerstart IIRC)

Thanks for your help...

 

[QUOTE=TurboMiata.net]
I friend of mine /QUOTE]

cough ETD.

Try talking to Jen, her car has the 16v turbostart system.

 

hey what's up man...i'm using a turbo start 16v battery on my setup this season...the smaller batteries don't like to be quick charged after each run.
I ran a harley davidson 12v battery to save weight before but it didn't last too long without the alternator.
I'd stick w/ the big battery for extra weight over the front wheels.

 

Marc,

You should be able to figure this out from the car audio days. There might be some issues with the electronics you'd have to check the voltage operating range. Does the ECU have a regulated or unregulated power supply? Not sure if that's an issue but it's worth looking into. Tell ETD to concentrate on distribuiting the weight of the battery somewhere that is benificial.

Why don't they use a small regular battery and throw it on the charger after each run?

 

Sean..

The FJO 341B ECU can handle the 16 volt system which covers ECU/Ignition/Wideband. Fuel Pump is okay! Everything else are just gauges, fans and switches which should be no problem.

12 Volts will not be sufficent.. The 341B loves more Voltage.. I have datalogs to prove this from my car in 2003. Weight is not the only issue.. Space is another..

Checkout the picture http://www.full-
race.com/images/gallery/laskey/images/013.jpg

Mike Laskey seems to be running a pretty small battery, and I think it is a 16volt. Was hoping one of the Hot Rod/Pro Fwd guys would answer my call..

Greg.. I do have more than one friend with a Race Car, nevermind more than one in the A/M class.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S13Sean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Marc,
Why don't they use a small regular battery and throw it on the charger after each run? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Power dude.. Power... 12 volts sucks, 16 volts is better! Hell.. I know of a certain A/M car in our area which had major missing issues last year, and ran a 12V system with no alternator... Might of been the problem. Never thought about it at the time..

 

Has anyone looked into the Jacobs Accuvolt? I used it back in my car stereo days. Found it at the local hot rod performance store. Is made for racing applications.

As long as it gets 9 volts or more, it puts out 13-16 volts at 120-130 amps. Its adjustable up to the ratings I just mantioned.

Now this was 4-5 years ago, did wonders in car stereo competions with amplifers that had an unregulated power supply. Just a thought

 

Interesting,

The deletion of the alternator will affect current more than voltage. When you are running an ignition system that draws say 30-40 amps and a fuel pump that draws 30 amps or so, cooling fans, it does take it's toll on any battery without an alternator. If the battery is dying it's probably the load that's being put on it. Most people I have seen without alternators throw the car on a charger as soon as the car is back in the pits.

If that 16V system works for others than ETD should get it. As for wiring of some cars I've seen in my former stomping grounds it's been scary and some people don't seem to grasp the concept DC power being pulled from ground. You know what I'm talking about

 

We know 16 Volts works, but there are all different sizes of 16 volt batteries and we really don't want a massive one. Try to find out which one with do the job..

We understand we will require the special charger and a generator to run it (Have it already). I'm just curious how much STUFF electrical all the big boys run when they are using a 16 volt system without an alternator..

Agree, Amperage is very important, but so is voltage and they are related. (as we both know from our Car Audio and IASCA days)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboMiata.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi,

I friend of mine is looking at installing a 16 Volt system on his all-motor CRX and removing the alternator. I am wondering if anyone can offer any tips, and also answer a few questions for us..

1) What is the smallest, lightest battery you would use on an All-Motor Civic, and still be able to maintain enough power for the warm-up (Once in the lanes), burn-out, run and return. People keep ptelling us t use a pretty big battery, but we are trying to reduce the weight at the same time.

2) When about to make a pass with a 16volt setup, just we turn all of our tuning gauges etc off, and just keep the Tach and our warning lights?

3) Are there any links or pages which will show me more information on installing a 16 volt setup.

4) Which brand do most people use for this purpose.. I usually see the domestics using the REG battery (Powerstart IIRC)

Thanks for your help...</TD></TR></TABLE>
you will have to use a turbosmart battery which you will have enough volt's and you just have to be careful with how much amperage you are using also you have to purchase the charger for the battery it is worth it having the 16V Batt...... setup have good thick ground wire and pos. (they are better priced thru jeg's or summit i spoke to the maker once and he said the better deal will be thru the magazines also check there website for more info. all pro cars use it fwd and rwd pro's.

 

There must be a 16v charger somewhere ask the people that are using the system as they would know best.

 

We switched my Corrado to 16V system last season.
(Note: test changes like plug gaps on the dyno)

our Autronic systems worked perfectly with the 16v.

I've been running the last 4 seasons without a charging system. Datalogs showed as low as 10.7 volts at the end of a run with a regular (deep cycle) battery. On the dyno, we always saw more power with the charger on.

Now with the 16volt (TurboStart http://www.turbostart.com/ ) battery the lowest we've seen is 15.4 after a run.... after driving back to the pits... and leaving the electric waterpump running with all the gauges...etc. Oh and did I mention that on that day we didn't charge the battery even once! (we normally charge between rounds)

We didn't put resistor on anything, and have not seen any problems. As a precaution, we make sure the kill switch is off (and there is Nothing in the curcuit) while we are charging, since the TurboStart charger (actually made by Schumacher electric) gets up into the 20+volts range when charging.

We did make some tweeks to the fuel map as the extra voltages makes fuel pumps turn faster, spark hotter....etc.
Be aware, the lights are also brighter, so at night, don't forget to put the lens cover over your shift light, so you don't go BLIND!....hehe.

What other brands of 16volts batteries has anyone looked at?

On our honda cars, we mount the battery on the outside of the frame horns, all the way to the front. The turbostart is around 40#'s filled. They also have a new sealed battery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S13Sean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There must be a 16v charger somewhere ask the people that are using the system as they would know best. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup.. I know where to get the battery and the charger.. I was looking for the kinda info Nate provided..

Nate.. Which battery are you using? The new sealed version (Black) or the one which need battery acid (Red).

Anyone put the Turbostart in a Street car and used the special box to make it work with a 12-14.4 volt alternator? I might add this system to my own personal car, as voltage was always and issue when I have everything running...

 

Marc,

For your street car you should ditch that pathetic alternator and put in something like a 100amp alternator or something even an 80amp would help. We had issues with that damned car ever since I did the audio system in that car. I would check to see what gauge the wire from the battery in the trunk is. Upgrade it to 0 gauge and that should help out with the draw. I doubt that Mazda used anything larger than 4 gauge.

 

bringing this back from the dead.

ive been searching for a while about running a 16 volt setup.

Im going to be running a MoTeC m4 on my racecar, with no alternator. am i going to run into any problems? what are the advantages to running 16 volts over 12 volts? about how much does the charger cost? thanks

 

bump