I'm going to "rebuild" my B18B1 at 160k miles before i boost it. I'm getting new piston rings, valve seals, timing belt, headgasket, blockguard, and i'm honing the cylinder walls. First off, if I do all this, how "ready" for boost will I be? It's going to be on a stock block, and I'm hoping to boost like 8 or 9 lbs or so (i've heard the LS block can take 11-12 stock, don't want to risk that )
Also, is there anything I have to do besides actually replacing these parts? Like is it necessary to get it hot tanked? Thanks guys...

 

i dunno about 11-12, but 6-8 should be fine on that stock motor.

 

oh, well a while ago someone on here told me a b18b1 could take 11 pounds well tuned. M'eh. No biggy.

 

if you're looking into boost, i would first suggest you have your block checked at the machine shop. have them check for the roundness of the cylinder walls, then go from there.

 

I think 11-12 lbs is a little high on stock internals, I would go an get the rods treated and maybe even shotpeened if you are gonna run that type of boost, but then again with those processes it would probably be better to get forged rods and pistons. Once you get the boost you will be hooked and your gonna wanna turn it up... I mean come on who doesn't raise the boost just a little more.

 

that's why i'm not running 11-12 lbs. I'm gonna start off with 7-8.

I'm doing a lot of the work myself, with some help from some trusted friends. Everybody needs to start somewhere, eh?

 

Doing poor man's rebuilds can work out fine. Especially since the car is running fine right now.

 

Tuning is the key. I don't see a problem with 11-12psi on your block if you're rebuilding it as you say.

Make sure you hone those walls correctly, inspect those pistons and make sure there won't be any hot spots on it. When you are trying to make the most of what you got, you gotta look at the small details. Take a dremel and try to eliminate any potential hotspots on the head ports as well.

I'll say it again, tuning is key. If you take it somewhere to get it tuned professionally, they will let you know where the best boost setting is. There will be a point where your EGT readings, A/F readings, etc will be perfect, and that's the boost you want to be at. Of course that means you'll need aftermarket fuel/engine management with extra boost timing tables.

On some motors, it will be 7psi, and on some...15psi. Hard to say.

EDIT: Why don't you shell out a few more bucks for some Eagle rods (they come with ARP rod bolts). Last time I checked, they were like $320 from http://www.importparts.com And get some ARP head studs.