hey guys i dont post very often here but read instead. its a very informative forum my story goes as follows: i bought a b16 EG hatch from one of my best friends. the motor was worked and i was very happy with it. recently i did a compression test and it was 240 across the board except for #1 cylinder which had 150 i poured 2 capfulls of oil into it, tried it again, jumped to 240 and concluded it was the #1 cylinder piston rings.

this is my first motor build so forgive me if i do not know some things you may consider obvious. NRG will be doing the install of my parts. i want to do this motor setup RIGHT and RELIABLE. i dont abuse the car as i care too much for it but i want the power available when i need it. the mods done to the b16 are as follows:

balanced and blueprinted block
polished crank
polished pistons
new piston rings
spoon head gasket
ITR cams
Portflow inner valve springs
ITR outter valve springs
skunk 2 titanum retainers
3 angle valve job
.020 milled off the head
ported and polished head
brand new seals
brand new bearings
new timing belt

according to cspeedracing this should be around 10.7-11.0 compression. i wanted to bump it up to about mid 11's and thought id accomplish this by CTR pistons and OEM 3 layer headgasket. i have a couple of questions/suggestions about my build id like you guys to help me with.

1) will i have problem with piston to valve clearence with the milled head? i was looking at this picture and thought i would. would changing from my spoon 2 layer to an oem 3 layer headgasket remedy/help at all?




2) whats a good idea of items to replace while the motor was apart? i could think of these parts:

aebs head studs
main/rod bearings (i was thinking ACL or Honda........any suggestions?)
81mm new piston rings (again Nippon or Honda........any suggestions?)
OEM headgasket
OEM oil pan gasket
arp rod bolts (already in the mail)
ctr pistons (already in the mail)

if you guys can add or comment on any of this id really apreciate it.

3) will stock b16 rods hold up ok? im planning on using the ARP rod bolts.

4) what sort of revs can this car be seeing? in my searches ive heard people saying stock bottom ends can rev past 10k easily. i dont plan on revving this high because a) i dont know if im even making any power there until i get tuned or b) i feel bad and i want the car to be

im thinking of setting redline at 8.5-9k

5) i know this is open to many views but how would i break in the motor correctly. in my searches i found this page http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm anyone do this particular method?


thanks for looking guys and i apreciate your help in advance

 

sounds almost Identical to the rebuild I am about to do
as far as your questions go
I have no Idea about the piston clearance But I think it will be ok
as for stuff to replace your list sounds pretty much complete unless you are going to replace the clutch or somehting like that while the motor is out
as far as the rods I have herd of people just using the B16 with no probs you just have to have a machine shop put the pistons on the rods
I wouldnt rev past 9k seeing as though the red line on a CTR is 8.5K and there would be no reason Honda would keep the redline low and reduce power
good luck and thanks for askign these questions

 

clearance should be ok. I've seen crazier milling with bigger cams and the same pistons that cleared fine. Just clay the motor before you drop it in. Insurance is good.

 

http://www.alaniztechnologies.com will have a lot of usefull information for you my friend. All of the stuff you plan on doing to that engine is like some rediculous crate build to just see how much money you can spend on your daily driver for no reason.

If you are doing a simple rebuild for reliability with some OOMF then dont waste your time with the pure track pre turbo strength rebuild... its not necessary man. I was inquiring about the same ****... ti rods and blah blah yakedy shcmackedy!


The head was completely cleaned, inspected, any excess materials were removed, and then the head was resurfaced.
This is mainly the street competition headwork job thats indicated on his website. However you will not see any information about bottom end rebuilding surfaces. But they do offer them for you.


This is a shot of the intake chambers. I recieved a 3 angle valve job. Anything more than 3 is great for v8's but this is a high compression motor that pumps out 100 hp per litre so anything more then 3 will net you a loss.

Also you will see that down below in the chamber that it seems a little rough, this is so the fuel stays in the chambers as well so the necessary amount of fuel is going into the chamber. If they grind them down to a completely smooth surface you are going to get horrible gas efficiency because the excess gas will just leak down into the chamber and burn up or even worse go down into the piston chamber when it doesnt need to be there causing detonation problems! DONT WANT THAT!!!


This is a shot of my jdm p73 pistons from DC2R I believe is the correct title for integra R. The compression however is identical to the usdm b16a2 piston. I believe they lowered the compression of the engine with the stock headgasket due to the .25 overbore. However the engine seems to have a nice bump in tq and midrange power. I can definately pass up a stock si with the same mods no problem.

The engine recieved a complete bore .25 over and honing job, all materials removed and cleaned, all new seals, gaskets, pumps etc, etc!


I also had the stock intake manifold bored out and matched to the ports I really dont know the terminology so please excuse me if I sound ignorant. But I had the throttle body bored out, and they did whatever was necessary to match the intake manifold to that to net the positive gains from doing that, and also had opened them a little more so more air got to the intake chamber of the head. I am sure you get the idea.


Thats the cleanest my engine has EVER BEEN!


There she is finished and ready to drop in, now all we need is my valve cover... You can go ahead and put shawn hillards mugen cover on my engine if you want guys!!!! j/p

Joe Alaniz and Charlston Ong

If it wasnt for Charlston my good buddy Joe would of never gave me the price he did for the work AHHAHA !!!

I blew a rod bearing and it destroyed the stock crank.

I replaced everything and regret not getting the ctr pistons as I was affraid the compression bump would of been too high. However if the shop you are working with is rebuilding the WHOLE engine they will do whats necessary to make sure the piston valve clearance is 100 percent a ok before slapping it all back together.

I would of been fine with the ctr pistons and we went conservative with the itr pistons. I was a bit dissapointed when I found out it was the same compression, according to cspeeds calculator its lower than it should be.

I am going to fix that with a spoon headgasket.

 

ill sell you my spoon headgasket

i think im gonna follow your advice wayne and do an overbore. im shopping for spare b16 blocks now. ******* money pit

 

I too am in the same boat at the moment. 137 your build up is 100% exactly what I am having done to my b16. What kind of power does it put out? Do you autocross or drag or HPDE or just have fun with it? Sorry for so many stupid *** questions, I'm just a little curious about how the set up feels to you.

 

I also wanted to add to my post to say there is not one aftermarket modification done to that head besides the headwork on it. \

you do not need aftermarket valves or VALVE SPRINGS,OR Ti retainers.

My stock b16 head is flowbench tested and flows better than a stock ITR head. So guess I dont need to buy into that hoopla and get itr valves and blah the **** blah!

like I said get the reading on alaniz!!!

I will probably get some mild itr or ctr cams for the motor and do a hybrid build and put this motor in the garage for back up because im building the car for track and I know this engine doesnt have enough ***** to lug around my em1 once I add the extra weight in it for track purposes.


Modified by 137 at 2:33 PM 2/5/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of power does it put out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would say about a 5 percent bump in whp is all im getting out of this set up, mind you im running a spoon flywheel and a clutchmasters stage three clutch. So the revs are fast... The whole reving to 9 k bullshit is overhyped. I still have the stock ecu and all I would need is some stock ctr or itr cams and a header matted to a hondata tuned to the engine to net at least 190 flywheel hp. I would have to go with a rougher set up to net 180 to the wheels and 200 to the crank. a lower headgasket would help a lot but you have to be very carefull with the engine clearance.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you autocross or drag or HPDE or just have fun with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I currently just keep the car in my garage, im about to replace the suspension with a 5 lug set up and hopefully get a comptech sway and buddy club coil dampers.

The set up is awesome though the car is VERY twitchy to say the least. the motor mount inserts and place racing driver side engine mount help with those results a lot.

 

good stuff then.