I was wondering if anyone has successfully mounted an ITR sway bar on a DA. The biggest issue that I can think of is the D-brackets. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

http://www.g2ic.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.g2ic.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

Been there, only one person has done it, but hasn' shown pictures yet as well as a full write-up of the installation. My main concern is the subframe, is there anyone that has ever made their own reinforcements for the D-brackets?

 

I have it on my car. I may be able to take some pics.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITAIntegraLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have it on my car. I may be able to take some pics.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be excellent........can you tell me how you actually installed it, was there any fabrication?

 

Old G2IC member Battlecat also had an ITR swaybar on his car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jasper_db1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Old G2IC member Battlecat also had an ITR swaybar on his car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know, I was looking for info on his car. He had a section of how to do the bar on his website, but it was under construction.

 

I'm inerested also.
I guess the other option is just doing the Progressive 22mm.
Or just starting the project and making it work. (how most of my projects usually take place)

 

I didnt see any reason it wouldnt work when i was underneath my G2... just use the ITR brackets and endlinks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm inerested also.
I guess the other option is just doing the Progressive 22mm.
Or just starting the project and making it work. (how most of my projects usually take place) </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not too fond of the Progress bar because of how low it sits. The D-clamps look like they'll scrape the ground and they say it may actually hit the exhaust piping.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didnt see any reason it wouldnt work when i was underneath my G2... just use the ITR brackets and endlinks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only thing I was fearing was the subframe tearing......scary thought.

 

Reinforcement kit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Reinforcement kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They don't sell reinforcement kits for DAs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emissionsux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They don't sell reinforcement kits for DAs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Who is "they" ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Who is "they" ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Beaks, BSQ, Mugen, Comptech.......I've been looking for info for weeks now.

 

No reason you could not use a beaks/bsq kit on a DA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No reason you could not use a beaks/bsq kit on a DA.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been talking to Wil from Beaks and he wasn't sure if it would work because of the step in the subframe.

 

as far as reinforcements, cant you just weld on a tapped sheet of mild steel to the subframe then bolt it on to that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as reinforcements, cant you just weld on a tapped sheet of mild steel to the subframe then bolt it on to that</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking a nice thickness of diamond plate on the inner side of the subframe to keep it from tearing out. The riun the bolts through that. Diamond plate is really strong stuff.

 

This is from a ef which basically takes the same mods to make it work...plates on front(gas tank side) and back of the cross member....very strong...never moved in 5 years.

Welding the plates in wroks even better but its the same idea.

yeah yeah everythings dirty and rotted but you get the idea









hope that helps a little

 

Nice, so you used 2 plates on the outter and 1 on the inner?

 

2 on the rear 1 on the front

the bolts go right thru to the gas tank

don't bother just sandwhiching the first wall as then it will flex then rip for sure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89civicdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2 on the rear 1 on the front</TD></TR></TABLE>

So actually, it's the inner plates that actually are what matters since it has the pulling effect, not pushing?

 

yes the tear out happens because the wall is ripped outward

if you just use washers instead of a plate on the tank side after a while you will see that the washers are being pulled towards the rear of the cross member thru the metal.

 

the # of plates is up to you actually as

the lever arm lenghth is different with non -type-r control arms so you have to move the bar back by spacing it with plates or box steel or whatever to get the endlink to line up "straight up"


so as far as strength goes 1 plate on each side is fine.