What mods do i have to do to get around 170 whp from a b16a2 usdm (99 si)?
I already have i/h/e. Thinking about skunk2 cams with valvetrain, 70mm throttle body, aebs intake manifold, spoon ventulli plate, hondata im gasket. Should this be good enough. Of course i will have it tuned on a dyno.

Thank you

 

AEBS manifold with the Hondata gasket is a good start. I don't know about the Spoon ventuli plate though. You may seriously want to raise the compression slightly with a Spoon headgasket to take advantage of the more agressive cams. I don't think you'll have to do any bottom end work if you're only shooting for 170 whp. Also, what intake, header, and exhaust are you using. You may seriously want to swap them out for something more potent.

 

stay away from the ventulli plate!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What mods do i have to do to get around 170 whp from a b16a2 usdm (99 si)?
I already have i/h/e. Thinking about skunk2 cams with valvetrain, 70mm throttle body, aebs intake manifold, spoon ventulli plate, hondata im gasket. Should this be good enough. Of course i will have it tuned on a dyno.
Thank you
</TD></TR></TABLE>

With all those mods you should be around the 170whp range easily with good tuning...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.2L &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With all those mods you should be around the 170whp range easily with good tuning...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tuning being the most important part. Invest in a good Hondata setup.

 

my friend has i\h\e hondata and valve train hes putting out 174bhp MUST HAVE HONDATA!! Valvetrain was done to handle higher revs

 

174bhp, that's only a 14 hp gain. this fellow is lookin for 170 whp, not bhp

 

I think i am close... only dyno i have is 151whp on a mustang dyno. The shop owner said all the stock 99-00 Si's he dyno's put down 120whp on his dyno. On dynojets, they put down 140. You be the judge.

stock bottom end, type r cams, bolt ons, obd1, no ac/ps, street tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AEBS manifold with the Hondata gasket is a good start. I don't know about the Spoon ventuli plate though. You may seriously want to raise the compression slightly with a Spoon headgasket to take advantage of the more agressive cams. I don't think you'll have to do any bottom end work if you're only shooting for 170 whp. Also, what intake, header, and exhaust are you using. You may seriously want to swap them out for something more potent.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont mean to jack the thread, but i was wondering where you could purchase a AEBS manifold.

 

I'm running itr header (not jdm) with itr catalytic converter and a N1 spoon exhaust.

The aebs manifold i get it from my bud shop in Ottawa,Can.

Would ctr psitons raise the compression enough to use the full potential of skunk2 cams.

 

JUST GOT BIGBORE

 

u can raise the compresion by milling the block and head

 

Make sure you invest in a good header (like $1000) and that alone will bring you up to the 160 range. ITR intake and cams and some tuning with all the little bolt ons and you'll be mint. Peak power don't mean ****, ask any of the guys in this place. I'd take 175 whp from ITR cams before 175 whp from a crazy stage 4 cam simply because the ITR will be cheaper and probably have better mid range, although it might be easier to get it from the Jun III.

 

junk the si motor get a B18C1 and spray the hell out of it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">junk the si motor get a B18C1 and spray the hell out of it </TD></TR></TABLE> keep the b16

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">junk the si motor get a B18C1 and spray the hell out of it </TD></TR></TABLE>

HSAHSHAHAHAH man what a lameass!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">junk the si motor get a B18C1 and spray the hell out of it </TD></TR></TABLE>


great idea!!!!


Junk a perfectly good motor, get nothing for it, then buy a b18c1!!!!




Modified by roadawg at 10:30 AM 5/8/2004

 

Make sure you have done the I/H/E first. Then ECU tuning (VAFC or otherwise) then intake, then throttle body. Tuning is what is important, and then finally cams. Those cams suck, so make sure you get rid of them. (even if only for a set of GsR cams)

 

My roommate has a 1st gen B16a with stock bottom end, and stock valvetrain, w/ Skunk2 Stage 1 cams, and AEM cam gears. He has a custom CAI, greddy 4-2-1 header, custom 2 1/4" exhaust, "m00gen" chipped ecu, AEBS IM, B&M FPR and VAFC. Pulled 170hp and 109 torque on a dynojet with tuning. Not bad for a motor that has probably 80,000 miles and internally stock except cams.

 

hey man not to be an *** but i have to get some posts so i can fix these ******** in kill stories talking **** forgive me if i dont make sense

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
great idea!!!!

Junk a perfectly good motor, get nothing for it, then buy a b18c1!!!!

That way you spent $3000 for 10 HP and 16 lb/tq.

You sir are a genious!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

10 hp and 16 lb/tq at peak, yea but the 1.8 will make way more power down below which matters.

You can just buy the block, but I still like the B16 stay with it.

 

Is it true that manifolds hardly gain any horsepower?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk2000Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it true that manifolds hardly gain any horsepower?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I try not to think of an intake manifold as a power adder, but rather a tuning aid, where I see its most often benefit is to move the powerband higher/lower. But then again, I am an idiot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unsung EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I try not to think of an intake manifold as a power adder, but rather a tuning aid, where I see its most often benefit is to move the powerband higher/lower. But then again, I am an idiot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe so! lol the last thing I think I would try and modify on my car is the intake manifold. There is no reason to replace your stock piece. Just have it bored out by a head shop that knows what its doing.

Mine was bored out with the t/b when it was at alaniz and matched to the intake side of the head. I cant complain at all about the suction of the car. I can complain about the compression level though dumbass should of bought ctr pistons...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 137 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Maybe so! lol the last thing I think I would try and modify on my car is the intake manifold. There is no reason to replace your stock piece. Just have it bored out by a head shop that knows what its doing.

Mine was bored out with the t/b when it was at alaniz and matched to the intake side of the head. I cant complain at all about the suction of the car. I can complain about the compression level though dumbass should of bought ctr pistons... </TD></TR></TABLE>

totally agree with you about boring the stock b16 im..