200 whp CRX for sale in MD/DC/VA
Hello boys and girls. I have decided to sell my CRX due to the fact that I don't drive it enough due to lack of time. I have owned it for approximately 6 months, and I've just decided that I'd rather have money than the car. It is obviously a greta car to drive, at any RPM it will start moving if you give it gas. You can see this on the dyno sheet.
Interior Condition-
The interior shows okay. I have CRX Si seats and Si door panels. The top part of the door panels got torn a little, so there is felt covering them. On a scale of 1-10, I'd give the panels a 6. They are fine except for those tears. There is a center console with a padded elbow rest, but I don't know from what car it came from. The cover for the gauge cluster was also changed to a rounded one instead of square. Overall, I'd say it shows better inside than most 1988 cars.
Exterior Condition-
The exterior has been plagued by the most common problem for these cars, quarter panel rust. On both sides there is some rust showing and there is some bubbling of the paint. There is also some rust below the door sill on the drivers side that is easy to spot. There used to be a lip wing on the trunk, but now that is gone so the holes have been plugged thoroughly. Also, on the driver's side, the window moulding is broken so it doesn't seal the window 100%. I'd assume any junkyard would have another moulding. All in all, the body and paint is still shiny, but there is that rust on a couple areas. I wouldn't say the body is great, it's about average for this year car.
Now, for the real reason you want this car, the modification list-
Engine- LS/VTEC
B18A block
B18C Crankshaft
Civic Type R Pistons
Jun 3 cams
Portflow Valvetrain
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Toda Timing belt
RC Engineering 370 cc injectors
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
SMS Header, slip fit
SMS Test Pipe
Greddy Exhuast
OEM ITR intake/throttle body
Fluidyne Radiator for an EK chassis
Place Racing brace underneath the radiator
Hondata S100 standalone engine management
This engine was built and tuned by Steve Sakai himself. It was tuned to achieve the power that it does, and it also gets over 20 miles to the gallon in the city. The engagment of VTEC happens at 5000 RPM, and it is incredibly loud when it does. It redlines at 9500 RPM. I don't want to sound too much like a car salesman, but if you look over the dyno it seaks for itself. This car is fast, period. Here is a link to the dynosheet.
http://www.sgt-racing.com/images/dyno/b18a1.jpg
Inside the car, there is a Pivot Racing Tachometer that goes up to 10,000 RPM. There is also an oil pressure gauge. Inside the engine bay, there is a fule pressure gauge with backlighting that was placed there for easier tuning. There is also a MOMO racing wheel with a quick release locking hub.
Here are a few pictures. I have more pictures, so if there is anything in particular you'd like to see, just let me know and I'll get you a picture of it.



The only known problem with this car is the crossmember where the steering column sits beneath the firewall is cracked a little, so the steering wheel won't stay aligned after hard driving. The cost for a new part from Honda was around $350 with a discount. Other than that, the car is fine. It also has a Clifford keyless entry system and alarm, although the horn isn't hooked up right now. The passengers side door keyless motor has been getting stuck, so all that would need to be done is to remove the door panel and fix the kink.
I'm listing the price for this car at $4500. I am open to other reasonable offers. However, before pricing this I did consider the replacement cost to do this entire project again, and with that in mind, my price is a bargain. I will not entertain any insulting offers. However, if you do want to spend less money but you want this car, I could be able to work out a lower price and then I could remove/replace one of the existing parts with a less expensive one. For example, the header and test pipe and exhaust are all expensive pieces, so if you want to pay less, perhaps I could find less expensive parts to replace that with.
So, please post back here with any additonal questions, comments, or requests. You can also PM me through Honda-Tech, I will respond to you as quickly as possible. Thanks a lot for the interest!
By the way, the VIN can be given to a moderator if necessary.
Modified by Kg cm2 at 11:56 PM 2/2/2004
Modified by Kg cm2 at 11:59 PM 2/2/2004
Modified by Kg cm2 at 12:00 AM 2/3/2004
Modified by Kg cm2 at 5:48 AM 2/4/2004
Interior Condition-
The interior shows okay. I have CRX Si seats and Si door panels. The top part of the door panels got torn a little, so there is felt covering them. On a scale of 1-10, I'd give the panels a 6. They are fine except for those tears. There is a center console with a padded elbow rest, but I don't know from what car it came from. The cover for the gauge cluster was also changed to a rounded one instead of square. Overall, I'd say it shows better inside than most 1988 cars.
Exterior Condition-
The exterior has been plagued by the most common problem for these cars, quarter panel rust. On both sides there is some rust showing and there is some bubbling of the paint. There is also some rust below the door sill on the drivers side that is easy to spot. There used to be a lip wing on the trunk, but now that is gone so the holes have been plugged thoroughly. Also, on the driver's side, the window moulding is broken so it doesn't seal the window 100%. I'd assume any junkyard would have another moulding. All in all, the body and paint is still shiny, but there is that rust on a couple areas. I wouldn't say the body is great, it's about average for this year car.
Now, for the real reason you want this car, the modification list-
Engine- LS/VTEC
B18A block
B18C Crankshaft
Civic Type R Pistons
Jun 3 cams
Portflow Valvetrain
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Toda Timing belt
RC Engineering 370 cc injectors
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
SMS Header, slip fit
SMS Test Pipe
Greddy Exhuast
OEM ITR intake/throttle body
Fluidyne Radiator for an EK chassis
Place Racing brace underneath the radiator
Hondata S100 standalone engine management
This engine was built and tuned by Steve Sakai himself. It was tuned to achieve the power that it does, and it also gets over 20 miles to the gallon in the city. The engagment of VTEC happens at 5000 RPM, and it is incredibly loud when it does. It redlines at 9500 RPM. I don't want to sound too much like a car salesman, but if you look over the dyno it seaks for itself. This car is fast, period. Here is a link to the dynosheet.
http://www.sgt-racing.com/images/dyno/b18a1.jpg
Inside the car, there is a Pivot Racing Tachometer that goes up to 10,000 RPM. There is also an oil pressure gauge. Inside the engine bay, there is a fule pressure gauge with backlighting that was placed there for easier tuning. There is also a MOMO racing wheel with a quick release locking hub.
Here are a few pictures. I have more pictures, so if there is anything in particular you'd like to see, just let me know and I'll get you a picture of it.



The only known problem with this car is the crossmember where the steering column sits beneath the firewall is cracked a little, so the steering wheel won't stay aligned after hard driving. The cost for a new part from Honda was around $350 with a discount. Other than that, the car is fine. It also has a Clifford keyless entry system and alarm, although the horn isn't hooked up right now. The passengers side door keyless motor has been getting stuck, so all that would need to be done is to remove the door panel and fix the kink.
I'm listing the price for this car at $4500. I am open to other reasonable offers. However, before pricing this I did consider the replacement cost to do this entire project again, and with that in mind, my price is a bargain. I will not entertain any insulting offers. However, if you do want to spend less money but you want this car, I could be able to work out a lower price and then I could remove/replace one of the existing parts with a less expensive one. For example, the header and test pipe and exhaust are all expensive pieces, so if you want to pay less, perhaps I could find less expensive parts to replace that with.
So, please post back here with any additonal questions, comments, or requests. You can also PM me through Honda-Tech, I will respond to you as quickly as possible. Thanks a lot for the interest!
By the way, the VIN can be given to a moderator if necessary.
Modified by Kg cm2 at 11:56 PM 2/2/2004
Modified by Kg cm2 at 11:59 PM 2/2/2004
Modified by Kg cm2 at 12:00 AM 2/3/2004
Modified by Kg cm2 at 5:48 AM 2/4/2004
bump for a sick car steve is great at what he does
ever ran it?
I would trade my 95 hatch for that car in a secondddddddddd plus maybe even some dough
Modified by ek-guru at 7:34 PM 2/2/2004
ever ran it?I would trade my 95 hatch for that car in a secondddddddddd plus maybe even some dough
Modified by ek-guru at 7:34 PM 2/2/2004
Holy Picture size batman.........
I myself have ridden in this car and even raced it. Very VEry Fast!
I saw this car make a 13.0@107 on the oldest set of used slicks that would not even keep air in them. Had to refill them before staging. This is a 12.7 motor with no problems at all.
I must also say that the car is alot better condition then the pictures show.
I myself have ridden in this car and even raced it. Very VEry Fast!
I saw this car make a 13.0@107 on the oldest set of used slicks that would not even keep air in them. Had to refill them before staging. This is a 12.7 motor with no problems at all.
I must also say that the car is alot better condition then the pictures show.
Ek Guru- I guess Smitdog already answered your question. Steve is definitely great at what he does. I can say that first hand. I've been in several cars with standalone engine management and this CRX that Steve Sakai tuned rides better than any of them. There are no glitches in the tuning like with many other peoples. As for the trade, I'm really just looking to sell it, but thank you for the offer.
Smitdog- As by your request, the pictures have been resized.
It should also be noted that the birshit does NOT come with the car. The price includes the car only, no bird droppings. It does, however, come with a full tank of gas. Better pictures will be posted soon.
Smitdog- As by your request, the pictures have been resized.
It should also be noted that the birshit does NOT come with the car. The price includes the car only, no bird droppings. It does, however, come with a full tank of gas. Better pictures will be posted soon.
Trending Topics
EkGuru- I had an idea. Why not buy this car and use the engine in your car? I read in your signature that were soon to be LS/VTEC anyway, so this would save you about 50% by getting it already done.
So, here is a nice picture of the header from beneath. It's showing the slip-fitting goodness...
So, here is a nice picture of the header from beneath. It's showing the slip-fitting goodness...
Thank you for the compliments.
Test drives for non-interested "buyers" are available, however they cost $1000 per ride. Still want to take it out?
Test drives for non-interested "buyers" are available, however they cost $1000 per ride. Still want to take it out?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridHatch88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump for a total sleeper
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It Truly is!
</TD></TR></TABLE>It Truly is!
Forgot to list some of the other specs on the engine/tranny and the car itself.
Engine has between 12-14k miles total. It burns NO oil and has NO defects.
The top speed is around 140 mph, but my speedo only goes up to 120
The tranny is an Y1 tranny, so the gears are very close ratio.
Engine has between 12-14k miles total. It burns NO oil and has NO defects.
The top speed is around 140 mph, but my speedo only goes up to 120
The tranny is an Y1 tranny, so the gears are very close ratio.
Yes, you are absolutely correct. When I typed that I was in a hurry. The tranny is an s1, not y1.
I also forgot to add, there is an aftermarket clutch and tranny. It is an ACT clutch with a Heavy Duty Street/Strip Disk and a Fidanza Flywheel.
Modified by Kg cm2 at 6:23 AM 2/4/2004
I also forgot to add, there is an aftermarket clutch and tranny. It is an ACT clutch with a Heavy Duty Street/Strip Disk and a Fidanza Flywheel.
Modified by Kg cm2 at 6:23 AM 2/4/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kg cm2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I also forgot to add, there is an aftermarket clutch and tranny.
Modified by Kg cm2 at 6:23 AM 2/4/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you might mean Flywheel...... No "aftermarket trannies" I have seen lately.
I also forgot to add, there is an aftermarket clutch and tranny.
Modified by Kg cm2 at 6:23 AM 2/4/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you might mean Flywheel...... No "aftermarket trannies" I have seen lately.
Smitdog- You are correct. Thank you for being my editor for this thread. You're doing a great job, but that is why I pay you the big bucks.
So, who is going to buy this ultra-masculine, high revving vehicle?
So, who is going to buy this ultra-masculine, high revving vehicle?
Does the motor burn any oil? What's the current compression? Does smoke come out from the exhaust when driven hard? ... I need a race vehicle...TTT
No, I have noticed absolutely NO oil loss. I have been monitoring for it, because many engines seem to, but I have not noticed the loss of any oil. I believe the current compression is 11.5:1, but I could be wrong. The pistons are from a Civic Type R, and I believe those are 11.5:1.
As for the smoke, there is some smoke that comes from the exhaust when driven hard. That is all due to the fact that there is no catalytic converter and the exhaust is pretty much a straight through design. One thing that you will notice is that if it hasn't been revved to redline in awhile, the first time it is there is a lot of carbon build up that gets blown out. After that first release of lots of build up, it gets a lot less noticable as far as some smoke under full throttle acceleration/shifting. You can also smell the fact that there is no catalytic converter. You can smell the fact that there is NO power being robbed by a useless restrictive pipe, also known as a cat.
If you need a race vehicle, then this is for you. As far as street goes, it is a total sleeper. The only sign it is modded is the Greddy exhaust. Other than that, nothing can be seen. The front liscense plate holder is placed off center to hide the SMS header. However, if you wanted a track race car, this car or any other car you'd want to put the engine in could be stripped out and you'd be running consistent 12s ALL MOTOR.
Let me know what other questions I can answer.
As for the smoke, there is some smoke that comes from the exhaust when driven hard. That is all due to the fact that there is no catalytic converter and the exhaust is pretty much a straight through design. One thing that you will notice is that if it hasn't been revved to redline in awhile, the first time it is there is a lot of carbon build up that gets blown out. After that first release of lots of build up, it gets a lot less noticable as far as some smoke under full throttle acceleration/shifting. You can also smell the fact that there is no catalytic converter. You can smell the fact that there is NO power being robbed by a useless restrictive pipe, also known as a cat.
If you need a race vehicle, then this is for you. As far as street goes, it is a total sleeper. The only sign it is modded is the Greddy exhaust. Other than that, nothing can be seen. The front liscense plate holder is placed off center to hide the SMS header. However, if you wanted a track race car, this car or any other car you'd want to put the engine in could be stripped out and you'd be running consistent 12s ALL MOTOR.
Let me know what other questions I can answer.



