Brake Upgrade With Stock Wheels
I'm looking to upgrade my stock brake system (calipers, lines, etc), however, I do not want to upgrade my wheels. I have a '96 Special Edition 3 door teg which has the stock 15" alloys. I'm looking to upgrade because I've been doing track events over the past few years and I'd like a bit more braking power (or at least a bit more confidence in braking!).
Does anyone know of a caliper upgrade or upgrade kit that will fit with the stock 15" alloys?
Does anyone know of a caliper upgrade or upgrade kit that will fit with the stock 15" alloys?
You can upgrade the calipers and brake lines w/ no problem. I don't know of any place that sells them, but you can probably find them on google.
You can't upgrade to a big brake kit unless you move up to at least 17" wheels.
Also you might want to check b/c Type R's have bigger brakes than the other models, so you might want to see if you can get a bigger rotor.
You can't upgrade to a big brake kit unless you move up to at least 17" wheels.
Also you might want to check b/c Type R's have bigger brakes than the other models, so you might want to see if you can get a bigger rotor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lewie4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can upgrade the calipers and brake lines w/ no problem. I don't know of any place that sells them, but you can probably find them on google.
You can't upgrade to a big brake kit unless you move up to at least 17" wheels.
Also you might want to check b/c Type R's have bigger brakes than the other models, so you might want to see if you can get a bigger rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow. Horribly uneducated response.
You can get great pads from Cobalt and Hawk for you stock calipers and stainless lines almost anywhere. This would be a good start for braking performance. I also recommend staying away from drilled/slotted rotors.
Fastbrakes makes many nice kits that will actually fit under a lot of OEM wheels, including some 14" alloys. He uses mostly Wilwood calipers, which are very light and durable. Wilwood also makes there own kit with a 12.2" rotor that will fit under most 16" wheels.
Do a search for Wilwood and NSX calipers
You can't upgrade to a big brake kit unless you move up to at least 17" wheels.
Also you might want to check b/c Type R's have bigger brakes than the other models, so you might want to see if you can get a bigger rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow. Horribly uneducated response.
You can get great pads from Cobalt and Hawk for you stock calipers and stainless lines almost anywhere. This would be a good start for braking performance. I also recommend staying away from drilled/slotted rotors.
Fastbrakes makes many nice kits that will actually fit under a lot of OEM wheels, including some 14" alloys. He uses mostly Wilwood calipers, which are very light and durable. Wilwood also makes there own kit with a 12.2" rotor that will fit under most 16" wheels.
Do a search for Wilwood and NSX calipers
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow. Horribly uneducated response. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't give him any bad information. I said that he could upgrade the calipers and brake lines and move up to a bigger rotor. That is exactly what you said, but I didn't know who made them so I told him to search.
I told him that he couldn't do a big brake upgrade unless he had 17s which is true.
I didn't give him any bad information. I said that he could upgrade the calipers and brake lines and move up to a bigger rotor. That is exactly what you said, but I didn't know who made them so I told him to search.
I told him that he couldn't do a big brake upgrade unless he had 17s which is true.
before looking into getting bigger brakes, as cost is always an issue, look into simply getting a set of Hawk HP+'s for your events. These are said to groove your rotors, however after ~10k miles on Brembo blanks of only street driving, I haven't noticed any wear on my rotors. The step down is the HP, but again if you are tracking them and worried at all, swap them out for the event. Worst case scenario is you get rotor wear, there's always the cheap $100 set of rotor blanks. Other pads I've liked were the EBC Greens and Yellows, but so far I've been really impressed with the HP+'s..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lewie4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I told him that he couldn't do a big brake upgrade unless he had 17s which is true.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Again, you are dead wrong for a second time. Did you not notice the fact that I mentioned that I'm running the Wilwood 12.2" kit with 16" wheels...
Look:

There are plenty of great larger rotor and caliper upgrades that will fit just fine behind 15" and 16" wheels.
Again, you are dead wrong for a second time. Did you not notice the fact that I mentioned that I'm running the Wilwood 12.2" kit with 16" wheels...
Look:

There are plenty of great larger rotor and caliper upgrades that will fit just fine behind 15" and 16" wheels.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Again, you are dead wrong for a second time. Did you not notice the fact that I mentioned that I'm running the Wilwood 12.2" kit with 16" wheels...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I said you could upgrade the rotors, I said you couldn't do the big brake upgrade kits like in this link.
http://www.modacar.com/product...DABBK/
Again, you are dead wrong for a second time. Did you not notice the fact that I mentioned that I'm running the Wilwood 12.2" kit with 16" wheels...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I said you could upgrade the rotors, I said you couldn't do the big brake upgrade kits like in this link.
http://www.modacar.com/product...DABBK/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntEGNYC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you recommend not getting cross drilled and slotted but you have them mated to your wilwood calipers? are we missing something here?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was wondering the same thing. But it must be personal preference.
I have been called out in this thread b/c of what I said. But from professionals and everyone else that I've talked to about them, cross drilled and slotted rotors are supposed to let the gases and heat release while using your brakes.
I was wondering the same thing. But it must be personal preference.
I have been called out in this thread b/c of what I said. But from professionals and everyone else that I've talked to about them, cross drilled and slotted rotors are supposed to let the gases and heat release while using your brakes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Look:

</TD></TR></TABLE>
what was the total amount on that brake kit and where did you get it
and most of all is it worth it and by percentage how much better are they
Look:

</TD></TR></TABLE>
what was the total amount on that brake kit and where did you get it
and most of all is it worth it and by percentage how much better are they
I would get some new rotors, either Oem brembo's or oem replacements from Autozone. The stock brakes on most Honda's are pretty good. I would check into new pads either from Cobalt Friction or Carbotech, I would stay away from hawk blues as they are hard on rotors when they are cool and are old technolgy. The biggest upgrade is brake fluid, if you have never changed it do so that was the biggest improvment I did on my car.
the cusco master cylinder brace makes a world of difference. put it on my stock gsr brakes and it changed every thing about the feel of the brakes. earls steel braided lines help and axxis ultimates work very well on the track and street. ive found that some of the "racing compund pads" only work good when they are hot like some of the porterfeild's and and some axxis. if ur wanting to stay under stock wheels theres not much more after that. unless you retro fit the type r calipers to the gsr knuckles which my buddy did and it was a headache
Check out http://www.fastbrakes.com. They have an 11.0" kit taht will fit behind 15" wheels.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HSPLewie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can upgrade the calipers and brake lines w/ no problem. I don't know of any place that sells them, but you can probably find them on google.
You can't upgrade to a big brake kit unless you move up to at least 17" wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HSPLewie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I told him that he couldn't do a big brake upgrade unless he had 17s which is true.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HSPLewie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I said you could upgrade the rotors, I said you couldn't do the big brake upgrade kits like in this link.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have no clue what the hell you are talking about. Stop trying to retract and change what you're saying. Last time I checked, a big brake kit included uprated calipers and larger rotors. Yes, some of these kits will need a 17" wheel to clear them, like the Brembo, StopTech and AEM kits. However, there are a **** load that will fit 17"< wheels, like many Wilwood kits, a few Baer kits, the Spoon kit and a few (shitty) SSBC kits. Thanks for you insight, though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntEGNYC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you recommend not getting cross drilled and slotted but you have them mated to your wilwood calipers? are we missing something here?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The kit comes with those, and that pic is very old. I currently have the Superlight solid rotors (WIL-160-0277) which are only $32 each. I don't see any advantage to drilled rotors on the street, as your brakes will never get hot enough for them to do any good. Hell, most race cars don't even use drilled rotors anymore, and only a select few use anything with slots in them.
The only thing that a drilled/slotted rotor does is decrease your braking surface area (bad), increase the chance of cracks (badder) and look cooler (ok).
You can't upgrade to a big brake kit unless you move up to at least 17" wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HSPLewie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I told him that he couldn't do a big brake upgrade unless he had 17s which is true.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HSPLewie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I said you could upgrade the rotors, I said you couldn't do the big brake upgrade kits like in this link.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have no clue what the hell you are talking about. Stop trying to retract and change what you're saying. Last time I checked, a big brake kit included uprated calipers and larger rotors. Yes, some of these kits will need a 17" wheel to clear them, like the Brembo, StopTech and AEM kits. However, there are a **** load that will fit 17"< wheels, like many Wilwood kits, a few Baer kits, the Spoon kit and a few (shitty) SSBC kits. Thanks for you insight, though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntEGNYC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you recommend not getting cross drilled and slotted but you have them mated to your wilwood calipers? are we missing something here?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The kit comes with those, and that pic is very old. I currently have the Superlight solid rotors (WIL-160-0277) which are only $32 each. I don't see any advantage to drilled rotors on the street, as your brakes will never get hot enough for them to do any good. Hell, most race cars don't even use drilled rotors anymore, and only a select few use anything with slots in them.
The only thing that a drilled/slotted rotor does is decrease your braking surface area (bad), increase the chance of cracks (badder) and look cooler (ok).
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