Please explain "Ohms" for Subs and Amps
I found a pair of subwoofers I want to get.
Subwoofer Info:
- Kicker Subwoofers
- Peak 250 watts (each)
- 4-Ohms
- Sealed box
Amplifier Info:
- Rockford Fosgate Punch 301S OR P3002
~ both subs say: 75 watts x2 @ 4-Ohms and 150 watts x2 @ 2-Ohms
My question....Do you want to match Ohms from sub-to-amp? Will the set-up I listed be ok? I want to run 150 watts to each subwoofer (no more than 300 watts running in the system). From the info that I've read, it sounds to be like I'm gonna want 2-Ohm subs.
I've been that if you have a correct sub/amp combo, your amp will not overheat. True?
I used to go to a privately owned stereo shop, but live to far from them now. Refuse to go to Car Toys, Best Buy, Circuit City, etc. So I don't have a sales rep to say whats good and whats bad. I'll be buying all my product online this time.
Subwoofer Info:
- Kicker Subwoofers
- Peak 250 watts (each)
- 4-Ohms
- Sealed box
Amplifier Info:
- Rockford Fosgate Punch 301S OR P3002
~ both subs say: 75 watts x2 @ 4-Ohms and 150 watts x2 @ 2-Ohms
My question....Do you want to match Ohms from sub-to-amp? Will the set-up I listed be ok? I want to run 150 watts to each subwoofer (no more than 300 watts running in the system). From the info that I've read, it sounds to be like I'm gonna want 2-Ohm subs.
I've been that if you have a correct sub/amp combo, your amp will not overheat. True?
I used to go to a privately owned stereo shop, but live to far from them now. Refuse to go to Car Toys, Best Buy, Circuit City, etc. So I don't have a sales rep to say whats good and whats bad. I'll be buying all my product online this time.
Wire the subs in parallel so that the amp will see a 2 ohm load. At the 2 ohm load your amp is pushing out 300 watts compared to 150 watts at 4 ohms.
It will run alittle hotter at a 2 ohm load then at the 4 ohm load. Your amp is 2 ohm stable so it is safe.
It will run alittle hotter at a 2 ohm load then at the 4 ohm load. Your amp is 2 ohm stable so it is safe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Do you want to match Ohms from sub-to-amp? Will the set-up I listed be ok? I want to run 150 watts to each subwoofer (no more than 300 watts running in the system). From the info that I've read, it sounds to be like I'm gonna want 2-Ohm subs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Best way to figure out what suits you best is to experiment...try running parallel, and see how the subs move, if they sound as if they are bottoming out, turn the gain down till they sound like they are running fine. best way to find out the max of the amp/subs is to start at 1/2 gain, and increase until you are happy.
Are the subs single or duel voicecoil?
single your gonna have to bridge the subs off the amp, duel on the otherhand would be ran parallel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been that if you have a correct sub/amp combo, your amp will not overheat. True?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The amp will normally only overheat if you drop the ohms on it really low, in this case running it at 1 ohm for awhile the amp could overheat, or it might not... all depends on the amp.
Best way to figure out what suits you best is to experiment...try running parallel, and see how the subs move, if they sound as if they are bottoming out, turn the gain down till they sound like they are running fine. best way to find out the max of the amp/subs is to start at 1/2 gain, and increase until you are happy.
Are the subs single or duel voicecoil?
single your gonna have to bridge the subs off the amp, duel on the otherhand would be ran parallel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been that if you have a correct sub/amp combo, your amp will not overheat. True?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The amp will normally only overheat if you drop the ohms on it really low, in this case running it at 1 ohm for awhile the amp could overheat, or it might not... all depends on the amp.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Enfo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Best way to figure out what suits you best is to experiment...try running parallel, and see how the subs move, if they sound as if they are bottoming out, turn the gain down till they sound like they are running fine. best way to find out the max of the amp/subs is to start at 1/2 gain, and increase until you are happy.
Are the subs single or duel voicecoil?
single your gonna have to bridge the subs off the amp, duel on the otherhand would be ran parallel.
The amp will normally only overheat if you drop the ohms on it really low, in this case running it at 1 ohm for awhile the amp could overheat, or it might not... all depends on the amp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please don't adjust your gain this way.
I know nothing about those amps but I would be willing to bet they are not 2 ohm stable when bridged. Your best bet would be to just hook them up in stereo. You can try bridgeing them to a 2 ohm bridged load. But know you are doing something the manufacturer probably wouldn't recommend.
Best way to figure out what suits you best is to experiment...try running parallel, and see how the subs move, if they sound as if they are bottoming out, turn the gain down till they sound like they are running fine. best way to find out the max of the amp/subs is to start at 1/2 gain, and increase until you are happy.
Are the subs single or duel voicecoil?
single your gonna have to bridge the subs off the amp, duel on the otherhand would be ran parallel.
The amp will normally only overheat if you drop the ohms on it really low, in this case running it at 1 ohm for awhile the amp could overheat, or it might not... all depends on the amp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please don't adjust your gain this way.
I know nothing about those amps but I would be willing to bet they are not 2 ohm stable when bridged. Your best bet would be to just hook them up in stereo. You can try bridgeing them to a 2 ohm bridged load. But know you are doing something the manufacturer probably wouldn't recommend.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Enfo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the amp has the ability to be bridged, then they know you are going to do it, plus most companies already assume people are going to try and bridge their amps, even if they say not too. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is true, you can bridge it, and because people are not smart enough to heed the warnings of the mfg - amp designers have to include things like low impedance protection and thermal protection.
Remember though, even if you are running an amp at the mfg's suggested impedance levels - it can still overheat! You need to select a proper mounting location for the amplifier as well.
This amp is only stable to a 4 ohm mono load (the second one listed - the first is not a current model and I'll let the original poster look for that model's spec). If you wire those two 4 ohm subs to a 2 ohm mono load, and bridge that amp, it will play for a while probalby and then go into thermal protection.
You have two options:
a) buy a pair of subs that can be wired to a 4 ohm mono load
b) buy an amplifier that gives you the power you want at a 2 ohm mono load
Option b is probably going to be easier.
This is true, you can bridge it, and because people are not smart enough to heed the warnings of the mfg - amp designers have to include things like low impedance protection and thermal protection.
Remember though, even if you are running an amp at the mfg's suggested impedance levels - it can still overheat! You need to select a proper mounting location for the amplifier as well.
This amp is only stable to a 4 ohm mono load (the second one listed - the first is not a current model and I'll let the original poster look for that model's spec). If you wire those two 4 ohm subs to a 2 ohm mono load, and bridge that amp, it will play for a while probalby and then go into thermal protection.
You have two options:
a) buy a pair of subs that can be wired to a 4 ohm mono load
b) buy an amplifier that gives you the power you want at a 2 ohm mono load
Option b is probably going to be easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Remember though, even if you are running an amp at the mfg's suggested impedance levels - it can still overheat! You need to select a proper mounting location for the amplifier as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so totally right, the Earthquake D2 is just like that, they are even known to bust into flames, seen it happen myself.
Remember though, even if you are running an amp at the mfg's suggested impedance levels - it can still overheat! You need to select a proper mounting location for the amplifier as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so totally right, the Earthquake D2 is just like that, they are even known to bust into flames, seen it happen myself.
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