What brand of oil do most of you use?
Now my dad has been using Pennzoil with Fram oil filter in his chevys. But should i go with syntetic blend or regular oil in my Integra '00?
finaly got my car yestreday. its a sweet ride. 5spd man. first time owning a car with manual. really been trying to get to used to it.
thanks
sergei
finaly got my car yestreday. its a sweet ride. 5spd man. first time owning a car with manual. really been trying to get to used to it.
thanks
sergei
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sergei01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...Fram oil filter...</TD></TR></TABLE>
don't use fram, they suck. i use bosche.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sergei01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...But should i go with syntetic blend or regular oil in my Integra '00?...</TD></TR></TABLE>
neither. use a full synthetic. they're more expensive, but they're worth it. i use mobil-1 synthetic.
don't use fram, they suck. i use bosche.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sergei01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...But should i go with syntetic blend or regular oil in my Integra '00?...</TD></TR></TABLE>
neither. use a full synthetic. they're more expensive, but they're worth it. i use mobil-1 synthetic.
Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com, it's a really good site.
As for me, I used Honda OEM until they started being manufactured by Fram. Many people will agree that Fram filters are pretty badly constructed. From looking at results on oil filter tests, etc, a lot of people like Wix (also Napa Gold) and Purolator PureOne. These can be had for around $5-6 at most auto parts stores.
As for Motor oil, people who want to go with conventional seem to like Castrol GTX. People who like Synthetic want Mobil-1. A lot of people on here like Amsoil and Redline as well, but you pretty much have to order that.
If you want an easy oil change, go to Napa, pick up a Napa Gold for $5.49 and some Mobil 1 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on the temp in your area. Also, make sure you get some 14mm crush washers for your oil pan drain bolt, you should change those at every oil change as well.
Congrats on your new ride, enjoy!
As for me, I used Honda OEM until they started being manufactured by Fram. Many people will agree that Fram filters are pretty badly constructed. From looking at results on oil filter tests, etc, a lot of people like Wix (also Napa Gold) and Purolator PureOne. These can be had for around $5-6 at most auto parts stores.
As for Motor oil, people who want to go with conventional seem to like Castrol GTX. People who like Synthetic want Mobil-1. A lot of people on here like Amsoil and Redline as well, but you pretty much have to order that.
If you want an easy oil change, go to Napa, pick up a Napa Gold for $5.49 and some Mobil 1 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on the temp in your area. Also, make sure you get some 14mm crush washers for your oil pan drain bolt, you should change those at every oil change as well.
Congrats on your new ride, enjoy!
Well, I use STP oil filters...STP and Mobil 1 oil filters are the same thing, only the STP filter is like 9 bucks cheaper. Also, I always use Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5W 30...Just my .02
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
this study is pretty informative, it says to stay away from STP, Bosch and Walmart brands. Supposedly, they used to be good products, but production has moved to sub-standard manufacturing sources and are now prone to failing bypass valves, etc.
Also, it says the only good Fram filter is the x2.
It's hard to keep up with oil filters, because many of them are exactly the same product (i.e. Fram makes filters for Pennzoil, Honda, etc) and many of them change design and manufacturer quite frequently depending on cost issues and outsourcing.
this study is pretty informative, it says to stay away from STP, Bosch and Walmart brands. Supposedly, they used to be good products, but production has moved to sub-standard manufacturing sources and are now prone to failing bypass valves, etc.
Also, it says the only good Fram filter is the x2.
It's hard to keep up with oil filters, because many of them are exactly the same product (i.e. Fram makes filters for Pennzoil, Honda, etc) and many of them change design and manufacturer quite frequently depending on cost issues and outsourcing.
I'm using Walmart Supertech filters (made by Champion Labs which makes STP, Bosch, M1 filters) and Castrol GTX oil. Currently, I'm also using the oil additive Auto-Rx in my oil.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by purplegsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
this study is pretty informative, it says to stay away from STP, Bosch and Walmart brands. Supposedly, they used to be good products, but production has moved to sub-standard manufacturing sources and are now prone to failing bypass valves, etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ntpog study while good is a little old (9/01). For example, with the Supertech filters, they used the old 2808 filter. Since then, the ST2808 filter has been discontinued and replaced with the improved ST 3593A filter.
this study is pretty informative, it says to stay away from STP, Bosch and Walmart brands. Supposedly, they used to be good products, but production has moved to sub-standard manufacturing sources and are now prone to failing bypass valves, etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ntpog study while good is a little old (9/01). For example, with the Supertech filters, they used the old 2808 filter. Since then, the ST2808 filter has been discontinued and replaced with the improved ST 3593A filter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zomart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
don't use fram, they suck. i use bosche.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OEM canadian filters are made by fram. I've personally been using fram and oem filters for 100K, with no ill efffects whatsoever.
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml <-- this is a good unbiased review of oil filters. Note what they say about bosche filters.
And as for oil, I just use pennzoil regular 5-30 dino oil. Because I change it frequently (1500-2000 miles), I see no need to use anything "better." To me, synthetic oil is merely so you can go longer between oil changes. If I'm wrong, let me know. I believe changing the oil frequently matters more than what brand oil you use. And after 100K miles, with 185 to the wheels, I am still not burning a single drop of oil between oil changes, even when I let the duration go to 3000 miles.
Hope that helps.
don't use fram, they suck. i use bosche.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OEM canadian filters are made by fram. I've personally been using fram and oem filters for 100K, with no ill efffects whatsoever.
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml <-- this is a good unbiased review of oil filters. Note what they say about bosche filters.
And as for oil, I just use pennzoil regular 5-30 dino oil. Because I change it frequently (1500-2000 miles), I see no need to use anything "better." To me, synthetic oil is merely so you can go longer between oil changes. If I'm wrong, let me know. I believe changing the oil frequently matters more than what brand oil you use. And after 100K miles, with 185 to the wheels, I am still not burning a single drop of oil between oil changes, even when I let the duration go to 3000 miles.
Hope that helps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obd2gsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And as for oil, I just use pennzoil regular 5-30 dino oil. Because I change it frequently (1500-2000 miles), I see no need to use anything "better." To me, synthetic oil is merely so you can go longer between oil changes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree completely, basically, if you never go over 3,000 miles between oil changes, you can use any Group II or III Dino oil that you want (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil, Walmart, etc). I have read many testimonials that say your engine may be slightly 'cleaner' if you used synthetic, that you may have better cold starts, and on and on and on. Just remember to use a good quality filter, and change your oil regularly - 3,000 on conventional and 7,500 on a pure synthetic like Mobil1 (although they advertise 10k Oil Change Intervals (OCI)).
If you are new to driving manual though, you may want to invest in some decent tranny fluid though! It sounds like you may be burning out your clutch and wearing out your synchros as we speak.
And as for oil, I just use pennzoil regular 5-30 dino oil. Because I change it frequently (1500-2000 miles), I see no need to use anything "better." To me, synthetic oil is merely so you can go longer between oil changes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree completely, basically, if you never go over 3,000 miles between oil changes, you can use any Group II or III Dino oil that you want (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil, Walmart, etc). I have read many testimonials that say your engine may be slightly 'cleaner' if you used synthetic, that you may have better cold starts, and on and on and on. Just remember to use a good quality filter, and change your oil regularly - 3,000 on conventional and 7,500 on a pure synthetic like Mobil1 (although they advertise 10k Oil Change Intervals (OCI)).
If you are new to driving manual though, you may want to invest in some decent tranny fluid though! It sounds like you may be burning out your clutch and wearing out your synchros as we speak.
So change the transmission fluid every year basicly? Well i think the most difficult is the moving the car from dead stop with manual.
sergei
sergei
If you are giving the transmission a beating while learning, you might want to switch to some GM Syncromesh (also sold as Pennzoil Syncromesh) so its a bit easier and you are sure all your fluid is fresh. Otherwise, you should change tranny fluid every 30k miles or so.
The Syncromesh is supposed to be good when your syncros are going bad in one of your gears, many people say that they ground gears with Honda MTF and once they switched to Syncromesh that the problem went away. The conventional wisdom is to use regular GM or Pennzoil Syncromesh if you do not have a limited slip differential. If you do (i.e. you have a type-r or installed a quaiffe LSD, etc) you should use the GM Syncromesh with Friction Modifier. The FM will stop any chatter that is common in some LSD equipped cars.
The Syncromesh is supposed to be good when your syncros are going bad in one of your gears, many people say that they ground gears with Honda MTF and once they switched to Syncromesh that the problem went away. The conventional wisdom is to use regular GM or Pennzoil Syncromesh if you do not have a limited slip differential. If you do (i.e. you have a type-r or installed a quaiffe LSD, etc) you should use the GM Syncromesh with Friction Modifier. The FM will stop any chatter that is common in some LSD equipped cars.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by purplegsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are giving the transmission a beating while learning, you might want to switch to some GM Syncromesh (also sold as Pennzoil Syncromesh) so its a bit easier and you are sure all your fluid is fresh. Otherwise, you should change tranny fluid every 30k miles or so.
The Syncromesh is supposed to be good when your syncros are going bad in one of your gears, many people say that they ground gears with Honda MTF and once they switched to Syncromesh that the problem went away. The conventional wisdom is to use regular GM or Pennzoil Syncromesh if you do not have a limited slip differential. If you do (i.e. you have a type-r or installed a quaiffe LSD, etc) you should use the GM Syncromesh with Friction Modifier. The FM will stop any chatter that is common in some LSD equipped cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also note that GM Synchromesh Friction Modified is sold at any GM dealership and costs about $11 or $12.
The Syncromesh is supposed to be good when your syncros are going bad in one of your gears, many people say that they ground gears with Honda MTF and once they switched to Syncromesh that the problem went away. The conventional wisdom is to use regular GM or Pennzoil Syncromesh if you do not have a limited slip differential. If you do (i.e. you have a type-r or installed a quaiffe LSD, etc) you should use the GM Syncromesh with Friction Modifier. The FM will stop any chatter that is common in some LSD equipped cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also note that GM Synchromesh Friction Modified is sold at any GM dealership and costs about $11 or $12.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheGSRGuy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bob Is The Oil Guy is a great site, that Prelude site has been somewhat unreliable on certain aspects of the testing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
um , that prelude site references bob it the oil guy and uses his information as references. sometimes, even honda-tech is unreliable. just depends on who posts the information. if someone is willing to do all that work, i believe they're going to try to be as unbiased as possible. can u tell me why that oil filter test would be "unreliable?"
um , that prelude site references bob it the oil guy and uses his information as references. sometimes, even honda-tech is unreliable. just depends on who posts the information. if someone is willing to do all that work, i believe they're going to try to be as unbiased as possible. can u tell me why that oil filter test would be "unreliable?"
Honda oil filter
mobil 1 synthetic
used amsoil oil and filters on my friends jrsc'd gsr since it was brand new. blower went on the day he got the car so it literally had the same setup it's whole life until returned to stock and trded in. at 18k miles the score marks were still in the cylinder walls... hadn't even "broken in" yet... dunno if that's a good or bad thing...
anyway, i'm happy with mobil 1 / honda
mobil 1 synthetic
used amsoil oil and filters on my friends jrsc'd gsr since it was brand new. blower went on the day he got the car so it literally had the same setup it's whole life until returned to stock and trded in. at 18k miles the score marks were still in the cylinder walls... hadn't even "broken in" yet... dunno if that's a good or bad thing...
anyway, i'm happy with mobil 1 / honda
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obd2gsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
um , that prelude site references bob it the oil guy and uses his information as references. sometimes, even honda-tech is unreliable. just depends on who posts the information. if someone is willing to do all that work, i believe they're going to try to be as unbiased as possible. can u tell me why that oil filter test would be "unreliable?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
The author doesn't necessarily reference the BITOG site, but suggests it as another site to find information.
Overall, I think that the review is a very thorough and has some good information.
However, his attack on Champion Labs filters are a little misleading. He states that STP and Bosch filters are made offshore, when every STP and Supertech filter I've purchased was made in America. Also, he attacks their bypass valve, but really doesn't seem to understand it. Lastly, he judges the filters by counting the number of pleats, which isn't the best way to do it.
um , that prelude site references bob it the oil guy and uses his information as references. sometimes, even honda-tech is unreliable. just depends on who posts the information. if someone is willing to do all that work, i believe they're going to try to be as unbiased as possible. can u tell me why that oil filter test would be "unreliable?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
The author doesn't necessarily reference the BITOG site, but suggests it as another site to find information.
Overall, I think that the review is a very thorough and has some good information.
However, his attack on Champion Labs filters are a little misleading. He states that STP and Bosch filters are made offshore, when every STP and Supertech filter I've purchased was made in America. Also, he attacks their bypass valve, but really doesn't seem to understand it. Lastly, he judges the filters by counting the number of pleats, which isn't the best way to do it.
My bro and I use Castrol GTX and we both have over 200k on trannies using Castrol GTX. No grinds ar all. I rebuilt my motor, but my bro has over 200k on his B18A and it's only burning a quart or so every oil change; not too shabby. The synthetic is overrated IMO.
I use a K&N Filter and 5w-30 Red Oil. I also use the Red Line MT-90 oil in my Tranny. In my opion that last place that you want to save money is in the oil and filter. These are two of the major components that will keep your ride on the road and not in the garage apart being rebuilt.


