is that ur dyno romel when u going to dyno ur car

 

Good #'s but what mod's do you have?

 

I went to DSR yesterday for my dyno session...I hit 180whp/130 torque...my mods are...Skunk2 stage 1 cams, Skunk2 Cam Gears, RC 310cc, AEM Cai, SMSP Testpipe, APEXi N1 exhaust, JDM 4-1 header, it is tuned with a hondatas200 p28....I gained alottt in midrange about 20+whp....

 

details on tuning also, thanks

edit* hype-r-29 posted as i posted

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swtxaznrac3r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">details on tuning also, thanks

edit* hype-r-29 posted as i posted</TD></TR></TABLE>

Car was tuned by Lawrence at DSR for about 1 1/2 hour...We broke 180whp once but the torque dipped down dramatically....

Had a little occurence today with the car, didnt start after i got gas...i had to keep on cranking and had to press the gas pedal ...then it started up....I guess i was low on fuel????...any ideas...i am worried about the hondata program being erased because of this...Im PARANOID

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hYpE-R-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Car was tuned by Lawrence at DSR for about 1 1/2 hour...We broke 180whp once but the torque dipped down dramatically....

Had a little occurence today with the car, didnt start after i got gas...i had to keep on cranking and had to press the gas pedal ...then it started up....I guess i was low on fuel????...any ideas...i am worried about the hondata program being erased because of this...Im PARANOID </TD></TR></TABLE>

aww na man its just your flux capaciter that needed to be primed no worries

 

Here's a tip to get a smoother start up.

Turn the key a click before the ignition and wait till the check engine light goes away and by that time your fuel pump will have already primed itself and should start with no problems.

Your hondata maps will never be reset unless done on purpose.

 

i did drive to work then the gas light came on, i parked it at the lot for 8 hrs, then it started up fine...i didnt warm it up, but did let it run for 2-3 minutes..then i drove to the gas station...filled it up, then it wouldnt start......i cranked the ignition then i hit the gas pedal then it fired up.....hopefully its all fine now?????????????????

 

All that money you spent on the cams and what not could have been spent on a Hytech system and you could have gotten better numbers for less money....

 

i bought my jdm header 2 years ago..it was the baddest thing around then...now they have Hytech, SMSP, DTR headers..probably later

 

Yeah, doesn't that suck? By the time we can all afford Hytech, something else will be out that is even better....*sigh*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hYpE-R-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i did drive to work then the gas light came on, i parked it at the lot for 8 hrs, then it started up fine...i didnt warm it up, but did let it run for 2-3 minutes..then i drove to the gas station...filled it up, then it wouldnt start......i cranked the ignition then i hit the gas pedal then it fired up.....hopefully its all fine now?????????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
you should be fine now, do what B2F said everytime

 

if your car takes a couple cranks to start when you open the gas cap, then you want to start messing with that EVAP canistor. search and youll find what im talkin bout.

 

Nice numbers, you have kind of the same setup as i do, but i am running the Skunk2 Stage 2's, and my numbers are 201.3 whp and 138 trq.

 

with hondata, wait until check engine light goes off and then start.. if this still happens, take it back to your tuner. hondata, when properly tuned should drive just like it would with stock setup.

 

Yup B2 is right. Never turn the key all the way until the CEL has gone away.

But on another note. Did you leave your vtec at the stock point??? I'm suiprised Lawrence didn't lower it to 4100 or 4200. That dip in the middle of the graph after 4200 could be power that isn't being unleashed. Just my opinion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with hondata, wait until check engine light goes off and then start.. if this still happens, take it back to your tuner. hondata, when properly tuned should drive just like it would with stock setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Except for when you use a P28 ECU that causes problems with the EVAP purge canister.

Reason:
OBDII ECU energizes the EVAP purge when you're at a specific MAP signal/MPH.

P28 energizes the EVAP purge as soon as the key is turned to the on position, which is why it makes it dificult to start the car at times.

If you're going to make a post such as that, please make sure that you know what you're talking about when you make a statement like this.

Guess how I found this out...

Austin

 

Austin....is the EVAP purge something I can remove, or is something I have to stick with.....about the not starting part is it common with p28 and new set-ups?????

Rick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hYpE-R-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Austin....is the EVAP purge something I can remove, or is something I have to stick with.....about the not starting part is it common with p28 and new set-ups?????

Rick</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right above the intake manifold there is a black square that's ~1X1X2 that has a 2 wire connector, and 2 hoses attached, 1 hose goes to the intake manifold, and 1 goes to a black cylinder along the passenger's side firewall, just unplug the 2 wire connector, that's what I've done.

Austin

 

are you running stock bottom end? I have the same set up but am running JDM ITR pistons and I am making 5 peak less then you and 7lbs peak less torque as well.
I know that numbers are just numbers and all... Maybe I should go to a different dyno and compare with what I made.
I too have hard starts in the morning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MISFIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you running stock bottom end? I have the same set up but am running JDM ITR pistons and I am making 5 peak less then you and 7lbs peak less torque as well.
I know that numbers are just numbers and all... Maybe I should go to a different dyno and compare with what I made.
I too have hard starts in the morning. </TD></TR></TABLE>


stock bottom, stock pistons

 

just a simple question, once the eprom chipped is burned it can never be erased....but can it be altered by different engine conditions????

 

if you have a re-writable eprom, then it can be well, re-written, but engine conditions SHOULD not alter the eprom, that would be a bit wierd if it did.

i have hondata btw and ive been going strong for quite a while now. its a p28 ECU and i have the evap problem, but i have only disconnected the hose. but i am bout to disconnect the wire and hopefully that will solve my idle dropping prob when i put it into neutral.

 

i disconnected the connector, seems to be running and starting fine now...i just need to get a better header and maybe going to stage 2's...i already want more power