wheel studs + wheel bearings + ball joint boot install = not pretty

 

Looks good. Why'd you go with extended studs?? Slicks?? I'd like some pictures with some rims on too!

 

yeah, need em for slicks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bretx0r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, need em for slicks</TD></TR></TABLE>

lets see those slicks on that beast

 

im in the middle of this damn project right now!

 

Sweet

 

Any other advantages from running extended?

Besides slicks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDMDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet </TD></TR></TABLE>

that looks awesome.. i need to replace my 3 of my wheel studs due to strippage... how easy/hard is it?

Great job none the less.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kKdARIAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that looks awesome.. i need to replace my 3 of my wheel studs due to strippage... how easy/hard is it?

Great job none the less. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Beat em out and press/beat in the new ones. Not that bad at all.

EDIT: Much easier to whack them out with the lugs on them though.

 

it does look swt do you have any pics during the install

 

not that easy. you have to remove the hub to remove the old studs and to press in the new ones. involves replacing the wheel bearing because there is a high chance that it will be damaged during the removal of the hub. i took mine to a machine shop and they did it for 30 bucks a side.

 

looks good, lets see some slicks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myhatchrips &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not that easy. you have to remove the hub to remove the old studs and to press in the new ones. involves replacing the wheel bearing because there is a high chance that it will be damaged during the removal of the hub. i took mine to a machine shop and they did it for 30 bucks a side. </TD></TR></TABLE>
cool

 

yeah i had to take it to a machine shop, they cleaned em then they pressed out old, put on the new dust shields, pressed in the new bearings, then pressed in the studs all for $60 and they did it in 2 hours

 

I just bought a 20ton press...any special adapters or jigs needed you press them?

 

nice

 

Did you take the whole brake assembly to the machie shop or just the knuckle?
Did you purchase new heat shields?


looks good.

I already have my studs but need to buy new bearings.

 

i still dont see the benefit of extended slugs.....even for slicks , can sombody explain?

 

damn foo bret you a stright fuckn gasta ballin *** OG


sorry one to many for me

 

I have a pic of extended wheel studs although its hard to tell cause they're similar color to the rims.. I'll get a clearer pic up tomorrow

 

fuckn thread jacker


they were asking for pics of his te37 drag rims with these on

 

ARP

 

my bad

 

Blingin macro shots Chad

 

Hey what's going on guys. I've read lots of posts here but this is my first time posting.... NOOb in the house... I usually frequent HAN.

Anyhow, I had some fatigued studs where the threads were all skewed so I decide to replace them. I was going to get the ARP extended lugs. I don't need them now but I was thinking about the future.

Anyhow, I decided against it and just got the ARP's in oem lengths for one reason only; wheel locks. Does anyone know of a wheel lock that will work with an extended lug? i.e. splined/keyed on the outside of the lug so tha the extended lug can protrude.

I got new studs, bearings, and ball joints because they're blown and I wanted to find an answer to the wheel lock deal before I put the short studs in.... I'd hate to do this twice if I decide down the road to go with the extended studs.


Modified by h22avid at 9:49 AM 1/30/2004