when i hear about b20's i always hear about people vtec heads on them. Are there anyone on this board running a b20 without vtec pushing over 220 whp boosted.?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiB16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i hear about b20's i always hear about people vtec heads on them. Are there anyone on this board running a b20 without vtec pushing over 220 whp boosted.?</TD></TR></TABLE>

boosted? you can go WAYYYY more than that boosted. boost is crack for cars.

 

there prolly is but i think every one goes v-tec because the stock b20 head doesnt flow that good and the stock cams suck. thats wut i have been told.

 

Head flow doesn't matter too much with a turbo. The air is being forced in instead of drawn in. The B20 stock head is the same as a B18B head. You can benefit with a VTEC head and turbo but the gains aren't that big anf the cost to power gain ratio isn't worth it. With a turbo it is easier to just stay non VTEC, and it is much easier to tune since there isn't a spike in flow from the VTEC kicking in.

 

thanks for the answers....anyone else?

 

i have a b20b/b16a hybrid! I love my car pulls hard! Just watch the revs! The b20 bottom ends cant take to much! I stay below 8grand! If your going to boost thought it dosnt really matter if you throw a vtec head on! I love my set-up though! Ohh yeah if your going to boost get a b20b they have lower compression!!

 

OK, Thefirstpact, dont tell people what you dont know, The B20B is NOT better for boosting if you want to make more power per pound of boost. The B20b makes 126hp and 133lb ft of trq. The Z makes 146hp and same trq. The difference is the cams and the compression. B= 8.8 and the Z= 9.6. The Z will make more power with less boost due to the fact that it has higher compression. Cant take revs? I actually know someone who rev'd their CRVTEC to 8.5k for entire drag season and never had an issue with sleeves cracking. (head was properly built) Talk to Newman, he ran high 11s with his stock internal B20 and FMU.... I wouldnt suggest that tho...
Good luck.

 

try getting a ls head little better then a b20 head

 

You tell me that you can rev it that high then you say "I wouldnt recommend it!" So what the hell gives! Lower compression means you can boost safely without detonation! I am saying that the b20b would be well suited for boost! Of course your going to have more power going with a b20z! Your starting out with more!

 

Just sharing first hand exprience, everyones is differnet. What I said about reving the B20: IT (I shoulda added this to clear things up ) Cant take revs?(in response to your post) I actually know someone who rev'd their CRVTEC to 8.5k for entire drag season and never had an issue with sleeves cracking. Thats just what I have had exprience with. Yours may be different. Sorry for being an *** earlier, I hit a curb earlier today and it sort of came out in that post..

peace out

Blaze

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ThefirstPACT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You tell me that you can rev it that high then you say "I wouldnt recommend it!" So what the hell gives! Lower compression means you can boost safely without detonation! I am saying that the b20b would be well suited for boost! Of course your going to have more power going with a b20z! Your starting out with more!</TD></TR></TABLE>

This guy seems a little too excited............

 

Well if this helps you any man... a vtec head is expensive and definately not the way to go if you want to turbo that monster... the b20 motor is a low revving torque engine and will the proper turbo could make a lot of low end power with sufficient top end as well. The vtec head is a "rather cheap" and great addition to a street car or N/a motor. It has stronger parts and is more volumetrically efficient meaning it flows better. Bottom line is with either set up you could be asking for trouble at any 1 given time something goes out you cant really ask why.... just get a b16 if ur on a budget and rev the **** out of that 1.74 r/s ratio monster
im me if you want more info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiB16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i hear about b20's i always hear about people vtec heads on them. Are there anyone on this board running a b20 without vtec pushing over 220 whp boosted.?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can make 220whp on a totally stock b16 on 7 psi. and plus the b16 or even b18 sleeves are much stronger than b20's. b20's have the weakest b-series(probably honda but dont quote me) sleeves.

but yes im sure that the b20 can make 220whp with boost and without vtec but it simply comes down to is WHY???

vtec head ~500-600 for everything - which will add at least 30whp easy
or b16a longblock less than $500

b20 longblocks ~ 700 - 800

 

riceburner247 ur a *****!
And to blaze45 no problem man! Everyone has there own ideas and opinions! Thats what we are here for, to tell of our experiences!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just sharing first hand experience, everyones is different. What I said about reving the B20: IT (I shoulda added this to clear things up ) Cant take revs?(in response to your post) I actually know someone who rev'd their CRVTEC to 8.5k for entire drag season and never had an issue with sleeves cracking. Thats just what I have had experience with. Yours may be different. Sorry for being an *** earlier, I hit a curb earlier today and it sort of came out in that post..

peace out

Blaze</TD></TR></TABLE>

hes right guys. this is what you do. search the archived h-t for any and every lsvtec thread. it is the same for b20 vtec. personally i wont go boost on a stock internal b20 b/c of the sleeves. search and there are countless posts about them cracking under relatively low boost. i say b20vtec cuz all motor is just way cooler! but a b20 under boost with proper tuning will definitely make over whp. more like 250-280 at around 8 psi depending on tune and setup.

 

a freind of mine has one with a vtec head on it, it will rip alot of swaps were i live

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ThefirstPACT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">riceburner247 ur a *****!
And to blaze45 no problem man! Everyone has there own ideas and opinions! Thats what we are here for, to tell of our experiences!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use a . instead of a !

!!!!

 

A friend did like 260whp on a stock b20 with like 14psi

 

Did your friend have the lower compression motor? What was his setup?

Blaze

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SDT Project EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A friend did like 260whp on a stock b20 with like 14psi</TD></TR></TABLE>

unless you mean with non-vtec head.... i guess that is ok but to me

that seems a little low.... i have seen stock b18c5s on 8-9 psi make 290ish whp on Mustang dynos.

EITHER way i would not boost 14psi on a stock sleeved motor EVER!
i would even be scared with that boost on a stock sleeved gsr block with forged pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 turbo crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if this helps you any man... a vtec head is expensive and definately not the way to go if you want to turbo that monster... the b20 motor is a low revving torque engine and will the proper turbo could make a lot of low end power with sufficient top end as well. The vtec head is a "rather cheap" and great addition to a street car or N/a motor. It has stronger parts and is more volumetrically efficient meaning it flows better. Bottom line is with either set up you could be asking for trouble at any 1 given time something goes out you cant really ask why.... just get a b16 if ur on a budget and rev the **** out of that 1.74 r/s ratio monster
im me if you want more info</TD></TR></TABLE>

good advice. BUT i'd choose the VTEC head IF your going 'all out'.. (even though i'm not a fan of all this xx/vtec hype)

 

b20/vtecs are awesome engines. Jeff Frank (local guy and owner of http://www.homemadeturbo.com) put down 306 whp in his b20/vtec with STOCK INTERNALS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmDXrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but yes im sure that the b20 can make 220whp with boost and without vtec but it simply comes down to is WHY???
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just something different. and for lsvtec and b20 vtec, there are always that group of people doubting it and that group of people that likes it. People say they break down if there not built right and some people say they are good motors. so i dont know what i wanna do next. I have a b16 and stock basically. i just wanted something with more torque. I was gonna put the b16a away and slowly build it for all motor purposes and just have a daily beater ls or b20.


Modified by SiB16a at 6:29 PM 2/5/2004

 

well what you should do is keep the b16 and put away and ls and build that for boost or go ls/vtec.. Youll be able to drop in a 400hp motor or so if its built right all at once, patience and planning, ask guys whove done the all out deal b4 to help you with your parts list, pm me if i can help as ive been there b4

 

the b20 bottom end is fine all motor. as far as sleeves go,you can rev the **** out of it. you might want to change some internals tho. built b20 with built b16 head 220whp all motor no prob.