How hard would this be? I've done swaps before, but never done any steering rack swaps and I wanted to know how difficult this would be.

Also, is there anyway to tell the difference between different steering racks?

 

Yes it is possible, in fact it's not extremely difficult at all.

 

if you are referring to the DX in your sig, assuming it's a hatch without power steering, then yes, you will notice a big difference. The lock to lock will be greatly reduced as well as the steering ratio...I would highly recommend

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are referring to the DX in your sig, assuming it's a hatch without power steering, then yes, you will notice a big difference. The lock to lock will be greatly reduced as well as the steering ratio...I would highly recommend </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually I ridded myself of that DX and I know have a 95 CX (non-ps) but I believe they have the same steering assembly. When I asked the differences, I meant visually. I don't want to get shafted when I buy an "ITR" rack thats actually for something else.

 

Bump

 

bump again

 

yet another bump..
because there's a few others that would like to know the answer to this question as well..
the rack in my ek is screwed and im looking for a good upgrade...
hasnt anyone swapped in a ITR rack before?

 

I'm buying the ITR rack and subframe, and I'll be damned if I can't figure it out.

I want me that sweet 15.7:1 ratio

 

The ITR rack isn't worth it. Just get any Teg rack- they have 16:1 and that is was was on pre-2000 ITRs and it should be a bit cheaper.
You will need the subframe if you have a non P/S car. Or you can just mod your existing subframe, shim the rack mounting bolts so the rack is even, and you are all set. That is what I did.
Looping the PS lines is a piece of cake as well- I think I used a 1/2" NPT (or 3/8") barb fitting (with some honda-bond on the threads to be safe), and then used the plastic container from a Lisle brake bleeding kit, with NPT barb fittings in and out of that. Works fine and steering at slow speeds or when the car is stopped isn't any more difficult than when I had my non-P/S CRX, even with the 275 width tires on my EG.

Ben

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bnjmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ITR rack isn't worth it. Just get any Teg rack- they have 16:1 and that is was was on pre-2000 ITRs and it should be a bit cheaper.
You will need the subframe if you have a non P/S car. Or you can just mod your existing subframe, shim the rack mounting bolts so the rack is even, and you are all set. That is what I did.
Looping the PS lines is a piece of cake as well- I think I used a 1/2" NPT (or 3/8") barb fitting (with some honda-bond on the threads to be safe), and then used the plastic container from a Lisle brake bleeding kit, with NPT barb fittings in and out of that. Works fine and steering at slow speeds or when the car is stopped isn't any more difficult than when I had my non-P/S CRX, even with the 275 width tires on my EG.

Ben</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I got an awesome deal on an ITR rack, that's the only reason I asked. Would an 92-95 2 door EX subframe work? (Since it's p/s)