Ok guys i have officially gone crazy.....................
Well as you might know i recently posted up which amp for a 13w7. Well Now i have a harder question. Ok I have now aquired my 2nd 13w7. This is going in a 95 Honda Civic Hatchback and I AM keeping the backseat. JL Audio spec sheet is 4.15 cubic feet of air space. So that comes out to 8.3 cubic feet for both speakers. In the back of the civc the stereo shop I am using is a good friend of mine and we found 8.95 cubic feet of air space. WIth being able to keep the back seat. So now I need to find a amp or amps that will push both of these. I want you guys opinion. Thanks in advance...........
Ah i forget the name, but my bro in law was suggested to get the highest rated jl amp for one, so i dont know about 2. So just stick with a jl amp
No the airspace they recommended was outside measurements. The amp I am thinking about is a JL Audio 1000/1 on each 13W7.
dude, your cramming a bit too much in that little car. but since you have already done it, just go with small sealed boxes. If your running them in stereo, two seperate boxes.
as far as an amp i guess that going with two 1/1000 would work, but thats 1600 dollars worth of stuff. Thats a used turbo kit, pistons, and rods.
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Port it 
There is some guy on sounddomain that had 2 18's in a ported box in his civic. Close to 9 cubes. He built the box in the trunk.
If you are considering a turbo you better come up with a lot more than 1600.
BTW, get a pair of jbl 1200.1's.

There is some guy on sounddomain that had 2 18's in a ported box in his civic. Close to 9 cubes. He built the box in the trunk.
If you are considering a turbo you better come up with a lot more than 1600.
BTW, get a pair of jbl 1200.1's.
Not really a big fan of JBL use to have some of there subs and door speakers and they sucked. I would however like some more opinions on amplifiers.
Well, I can say that JBL amps are better than anything else in the line.
I have one, best bang for the buck but if you got the money 1/1000 or look into the Arc Audio line.
I have one, best bang for the buck but if you got the money 1/1000 or look into the Arc Audio line.
Orion 2500d. Rated at 2500 watts at 1 ohm, does more like 2700+. You could run the w7's at 1.5 ohm mono and still get plenty of power for them. Personally I would have just ran 1 and ported it with the same amp at .75, but I guess it's too late for that now since you already have it.
JBL BP series amps are great amps for the money. I've ran them in my cars for a couple years now with no problems. The 1200.1 bench tested at 1380 watts @ 14.4v. Thats a pretty powerful amp for under $300.
JBL BP series amps are great amps for the money. I've ran them in my cars for a couple years now with no problems. The 1200.1 bench tested at 1380 watts @ 14.4v. Thats a pretty powerful amp for under $300.
Two of these these should do it Or one of these. I think the bigger question is where do you plan to get the current from?
You might want to talk to these guys about power issues.
And lastly you might want to reserve a couple of these while you can still use a telephone.
Modified by nsxxtreme at 8:16 PM 1/29/2004
You might want to talk to these guys about power issues.
And lastly you might want to reserve a couple of these while you can still use a telephone.
Modified by nsxxtreme at 8:16 PM 1/29/2004
I really like the Soundstream Tarantula those amps are just plain bad. The audiobahn though I think that is a little over kill for what i need. The Tarantula will push both of those W7's just fine, but where can i get one and does anyone happen to know how much they are? As for the ear plugs, I don't think i will need those any time soon, but thanks for the link.
might i suggest a PG Tantrum 1200.1 on each of the 13w7s.
the Tantrum 1200.1 does about 1400 watts rms at 2 ohms (1500+ on birthsheet) so that would give each 13w7 about 1500 watts? but i'm not sure if they are stable below 2 ohms. The good thing is, they are about half the price of JL 1000/1 at around or less than 400.
the Tantrum 1200.1 does about 1400 watts rms at 2 ohms (1500+ on birthsheet) so that would give each 13w7 about 1500 watts? but i'm not sure if they are stable below 2 ohms. The good thing is, they are about half the price of JL 1000/1 at around or less than 400.
Are you adding extra batteries to this setup? That just seems like a ton of power. I know a few people with big setups and they are running extra batteries in the trunk
Yes I am adding a extra battery. I also need to upgrade my alternator. Does anyone happen to have or know the part number of the stinger alternator that will fit a 2000 gsr motor? How many amps is it? What kind of warranty does it have? Also does anyone know what the actual real world power output for the 500/1 is? I was told that it is around 650. Any truth to this? And how about the 1000/1 as well?
Still havent bought a amp yet. Considering getting just one large amp now instead of 2 good sized amps. I will list a few amps here and you guys tell me what your choices would be.
1. JL Audio 1000/1 for both.
2. JL Audio 500/1 on each
3. Phoenix gold titanium 1200.1 on both
4. Memphis Audio MOJO amp 2400 watts on both
5. Orion 2500D on both
6. Earthquake D2 shredder (3000 watts)or older (2000 watts) on both
7. Soundstream Tarantula (2000 watt mono block)
Still havent bought a amp yet. Considering getting just one large amp now instead of 2 good sized amps. I will list a few amps here and you guys tell me what your choices would be.
1. JL Audio 1000/1 for both.
2. JL Audio 500/1 on each
3. Phoenix gold titanium 1200.1 on both
4. Memphis Audio MOJO amp 2400 watts on both
5. Orion 2500D on both
6. Earthquake D2 shredder (3000 watts)or older (2000 watts) on both
7. Soundstream Tarantula (2000 watt mono block)
How can you not be a fan of JL amps.. They have one of the best tightly regualted power supply's on the market. Which means on the street in a street car they will deliver more power than your typical amp. Alot of these amps are tested for peak power on a test bench.. Your car is not a rolling test bench. And besides the fact that they can do peak power anywhere between 1.5-4 ohms is outstanding. They will work in damn near any woofer configuration and deliver peak power.
What have you ran into that you did not like on the JL Amps?.
What have you ran into that you did not like on the JL Amps?.
I never said I did not like JL Amps there is nothing wrong with them. Just not my personal preference. I don't really care for how they regulate things. I like getting more power when I lower the impedence. I also don't care for the fit and finish of the amplifiers, they look cheap. Nor am I a fan of class D amplifiers or MOSFET amplifiers. I like good old class AB BJT amplifiers they don't cut back on quality for efficientcy. That is an entire different topic though.
I do however like the very old RF that where MOSFET they used to do a really good job on them.
I have always liked
Soundtream (the good ones)
Autotek (mean machines)
Orion HCCA amplifiers
and a few others
Personal choice mainly you may like JIFF I like adams peanut butter
I do however like the very old RF that where MOSFET they used to do a really good job on them.
I have always liked
Soundtream (the good ones)
Autotek (mean machines)
Orion HCCA amplifiers
and a few others
Personal choice mainly you may like JIFF I like adams peanut butter
Thats cool.. I was just curious on if anyone has had a problem with these amps.. i love their amps and I push them all the time to sell. I think they sound awesome and work great in a street car application.
But my personal Favorite would be the two old Amps I owned. My D300Hc and my LM2125 from MMats. That was a good sounding system I had.. Ahh The Good Ol Days..
But my personal Favorite would be the two old Amps I owned. My D300Hc and my LM2125 from MMats. That was a good sounding system I had.. Ahh The Good Ol Days..
I don't really like the RIPS system either....
They don't offer enough power ranges for my liking - you couldn't ever use them in a horn system either...too difficult to match power. I've never even considered using them b/c of those reasons alone.
That said, from an installer standpoint, they have placed their amps perfectly from a marketing stand point. I'm sure people are making a killing selling 300/4's paired with 500/1's, dropping a pair of co-ax front and back and then stuffing pre-fabbed boxes with a pair of W3's....
The thing I do like about them...pretty smart crossover, and the connections are all on the bottom of the amp - makes em easier to install and setup IMO.
As for the regulated thing - bah who cares....makes em current hogs anyway.
Amps I've fallen in love with...PPI Art Series....ohh so simple...What I would like to try next - an all DLS setup...yuuuummmm!!
They don't offer enough power ranges for my liking - you couldn't ever use them in a horn system either...too difficult to match power. I've never even considered using them b/c of those reasons alone.
That said, from an installer standpoint, they have placed their amps perfectly from a marketing stand point. I'm sure people are making a killing selling 300/4's paired with 500/1's, dropping a pair of co-ax front and back and then stuffing pre-fabbed boxes with a pair of W3's....
The thing I do like about them...pretty smart crossover, and the connections are all on the bottom of the amp - makes em easier to install and setup IMO.
As for the regulated thing - bah who cares....makes em current hogs anyway.
Amps I've fallen in love with...PPI Art Series....ohh so simple...What I would like to try next - an all DLS setup...yuuuummmm!!
If you want mucho power, Consider a modded US Amp 4000x.
No crossover, no jeebies and wheebies, just straight power. Able to do 2000x1@2ohm (~1750w at 3ohm). Of course being a Class A/B, expect this thing to draw 350A plus.
No crossover, no jeebies and wheebies, just straight power. Able to do 2000x1@2ohm (~1750w at 3ohm). Of course being a Class A/B, expect this thing to draw 350A plus.


