Finally my ecu threw a code 14 Electronic Air Control after about a month or so of no cold idle.
This is good since the lil figure 8 gasket was leaking just the other day a bit.
!) Where's gonna be the best/cheapest place to get one, and do I get one from a 90-93 Integra?
2) Does this have anything to do with affecting the O2 sensor, I know it's purpose is to control the cold idle rpm right?

1st gen b16 BTW

 

Code 14 - Electronic Air Control Valve
Lets extra air into the intake manifold, to help control the idle under different loads.

Check the O-rings, for mountng condition.
Clean the inside of the Valve after removing, using any kind of solvent that will remove carbon build up. By spraying it inside the two holes ect...

Place the flat end of a screw driver on the EACV while the engine is running. Place the handle against your ear and listen. Should hear something in there jumping back and fourth at a rapid rate.

EACV Sensor Wires:


1 Blue/Black
1 Yellow/Black

Code 1 - O2 Sensor - Code 2 is for the one down on the cat. Which was not used in the US.
MAP, TDC & CYL (along others) helps determine the Pulse Width (PW) in which fuel is injected. With the MAP having the most control, out of all other sensors.

Testing requires a voltmeter.
The voltage on a properly working sensor should sweep between .1 to .9 volts 2-3 times a second @ 2500 rpm. Peeps with A/F Ratio meters, will see the reading moving/dancing around all the time. This means everything is working all right

Unheated O2 sensor have to heat up, and maintain 600+ degrees F in order to work properly. Until that temp is reached, the ECU sends out .45V, until it reaches operating temp. When temp is reached, the O2 sensor will send out .5V. Telling the ECU it's up to operating temp, and can now go into "Closed Loop" operation. That is, if all the "other" conditions are met too, like water temp, etc....

Voltages:

Lean - .1 volts
stoich - .5 volts
Rich - .9 volts
O2 sensors do not wear out... they fail due to contamination.


Silcon Depostits (from using gasket sealents that are not O2 safe)
Solvents, Lubricants, Cleaners, Adhesives
Gasoline Additives
Lead
Carbon Deposits (rich condition)
Engine Oil (burning or spilling)
Anti-Freeze (blown head gasket)
Clogged External Air Vents (dirt, ect...)
Running Lean (too much heat)
ECU damage can occure using the wrong sensor, due to the execessive current draw requirements of non-stock sensor.

 

dang talk about a good reply. thanks.

 

your welcome

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Check the O-rings, for mountng condition.
Clean the inside of the Valve after removing, using any kind of solvent that will remove carbon build up. By spraying it inside the two holes ect...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yah. I've taken both idle valves out before and cleaned them real good. I took them as far apart as possible and sprayed em real good with i think throttle body cleaner or something.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Place the flat end of a screw driver on the EACV while the engine is running. Place the handle against your ear and listen. Should hear something in there jumping back and fourth at a rapid rate.

Code 1 - O2 Sensor - Code 2 is for the one down on the cat. Which was not used in the US.
MAP, TDC & CYL (along others) helps determine the Pulse Width (PW) in which fuel is injected. With the MAP having the most control, out of all other sensors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lots of info to absorb. will try this weekend and let you know if the eacv was salvaged or not