Saturday nite, I had my first ever case of a weird Idle. I had been driving for around 2 hrs or so. came to a stoplight I let off the gas and It held at 2,000 rpms. I was like hmmm.. So i tapped the throttle and it came down back to 700-800 rpms like it normally idles at.


This morning, I was driving for about an half hr. and I'd come to the stoplight and it started fluctuating from Idle to exactly 1500 rpms back N forth. totally annoying, i tapped the throttle to see if it would stay at idle but it wouldn't do anything but keep on doing what it was doing.

I pulled over and turned off the car and waiting like 5 mins and then started it back up. Problem went away. I drove about another 3-4 miles without a problem.

I think something is about to go out for good lol. replace EGR vavle or something?
i have no clue since i know more about carbs than EFI.

Thanks for any input! I don't want to have to take it in and pay someone to figure out this lil shitbox i call a crx

 

I recommend checking a few things first and getting second opinions (I don't trust mine!)

check:
FITV (prolly not since problem occurs when engine is hot.)
EACV
vacuum lines.

I've had a similar problem before and I thought it was my EACV so I replaced it.... nothing. I got so frustrated that I just started replacing vacuum lines since you can replace them all for under 5$ and poof, problem solved.

Turned out I had a deterioted vacuum line that "sprung a leak" when it got some heat in it.

 

I knew it was vacuum related or sorts..
I'll replace the Lines and see what happens Might as well replace the EACV too.

 

Also check the TPS as it can be inspec enough not to throw a cpode but still affect the idel stability. With the throttle close it should have 0.45-0.5 volts DC at WOT wide open throttle 4.5-5.0 Volts DC. I think that is correct for WOT but could be wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tpr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also check the TPS as it can be inspec enough not to throw a cpode but still affect the idel stability. With the throttle close it should have 0.45-0.5 volts DC at WOT wide open throttle 4.5-5.0 Volts DC. I think that is correct for WOT but could be wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Checking TPS output isn't as easy as 123. There is a plug that goes to your TPS and in the wires for the plug there are 3 wires wrapped together. cut a slit in the wrapping, find the red wire and just "nick" the sheething or make a little slit so you can get a "voltometer" prong to touch the wire. Take the negative voltmeter prong and touch it to any ground. I stuck my negative prong in the negative wire running from the valve cover to body (this way I didn't have to "hold it" the whole time).

Then you turn your key to the ON position and check the voltage at closed throttle and WOT.

It may not be your TPS, when I had TPS issues my ecu threw the "TPS CEL" which I believe is code 7. If you're throwing code 8, I think you either need a new dizzy (unless you replaced it already) or you should talk to your "shop" and tell them exactly what's going on. AFTER ALL.... all this DID come about AFTER the shop worked on the car right?