Ok well im trying to take off my crank pully because i need 2 make my Piston #1 to be @ TDC because im changing my timing belt.

Anyways i figured this wouldnt be too hard to do, id just take my time, no biggy.

Well freinds had told me its gonna be a bitch to do because that bolt is going to be on super tight..... i knew it would be but they kept telling dude... u have no idea..... ok well I gotta try right?

heres a pic of the bolt (b16a1)



OK
well let me tell u, This bolt will not come out


Noway we could do this job with our wrenches and 2 foot extensions, the reason we had 2 foot extentions was because I dont have a crank holder so that the crank doesnt spin and theres no way vicegrips cliped on the pully so that it hits agaisnt the body will ever hold. So we decided to lower the car put the spare on it and flatten the spare
(spare is way smaller obviously so this gives us more clearence 2 work in)

So basicaly we had the long extension going from the bolt out past the wheel which was the only way we could do it with some1 holding down the brake while the other gave it their all on the bolt so the wheel wouldnt spin

(before i was spinning rubber with the full weight of the car on the ground, quite funny, another funny thing to me is the bolt requires more torque then my motor actually makes)


...Well there was noway that we were gonna take this off since my freind is 235lbs and he cant do it by standing on the wrench and it isnt budging and he's jumping on it etc etc.

ok well time for a breaker bar, i didnt have one..... Well i live in a new sub division and theres tons of construction crap around here, well i managed to find a bar, well its a stand and its about 5 feet tall and weighs about 20lbs
heres a pic of it


Dont mind the grill, its only there as a joke haha


ANYWAYS, we used this "breaker bar" and we had one end completly down past the driver side towards the back wheel and did a complete 180 all the way the the other side, bam, bam, bam extensions kept breaking. I could not belive the pressure i was putting on this damm bolt, and could not comprehend how it was not comming off
aftermath of 1st attempt with my freind with and without breaker bar
-3 broken mastercraft wrenches
-6 broken mastercraft extensions
-1 broken torque wrench


my thoughts..... some used impact gun on it which ur not supposed to do and it even says on the shop manuel for b16 which i have or....... they used locktight YAY!
funny enough the manuel says the bolt should be torqued to 90ftlbs, haah its a lil over 90 dont u think?

well, we took it to the next level

i was using half inch extensions and half inch wrench's and an impact bit just for kicks

well still nothing, great....

as a joke i was like hey guys (this was the next day btw) theres a 7 foot long Forklift bar (the **** that rasies the stuff that goes under skids) im like wanna use that as a breaker bar?? lol
( i dont have pics of this because i was too frustrated to grab my camera and it was night out)

well since we had nothing to loose we went and grabbed it

OK THIS THING WEIGHS 65lbs adn is litterally 6-7 foot long, quite funny

well we used this with 3 people carryng it ( my freinds decided to come by and laugh at the situation then play some xbox), we could not do a complete 180 since the damm thing is too long and would hit my roof of my garage, we did like a 75 degreee turn

NOTHING!!!!!!!!!!

WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!

how can this be? i cannot comprehend this, how the hell can
A) the bolt not come off
B) bolt be taking so much freakin pressure on not come off

funny enough the threads/grips on the thread are like new, not even damaged at all after this

my only possible solution is to now tow my car to a shop let them use thier air tools/impact and take that POS bolt off and i'll do the rest.

i dont have the luxury of owning air tools and what not but yeah thats my story, quite unbelievable to me, still hurts my head when i think how the bolt wont come out

Modified by Sleepin Crx at 8:11 AM 1/23/2004


Modified by Sleepin Crx at 8:20 AM 1/23/2004

 

get a wrench on the bolt and crank the car that will take it off haha should have done some searching..

or get the Snap ON or Indersol Air guns those should snap it off

 

Well u see theres prob with that dude, i thougth about that... oh yea.... but the thing is that im afraid that
a) i will break my starter
b) i will probably break the teeth of my starter and cause damage, this bolt is on SOOOOO TIGHT, i honestly believe this would break the starter and cause damage that i dont need

and like i said my only option now is airtools

 

That sucks bro. Yeah I am usually not a happy camper if I can't break the bolt off heh. Good luck with it.

 

Just buy the tool from Snap-on. Once you use it the first time you'll wonder why you ever tried to do it without it. Best $60.00 I ever spent.
Oh wait you might have a D series, I never tried to break the bolt on a D series before. Never mind
Bring it to a honda dealer and pay them to break it, then tighten it enough to get you home. (that's what I did, before I had the tool.)

 

im running a nicely modded b16a1 on my 90 rex cx, its a sleeper

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleepin Crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im running a nicely modded b16a1 on my 90 rex cx, its a sleeper</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then buy the damn tool from Snap-on, and rent it to your friends. It'll pay for itself in no time.
When I brought my GS-R to the dealer to break the bolt loose he said, people always think they can break the pulley bolts on the VTEC engines loose without the tool and a breaker bar, but YOU CAN'T! You need BOTH

 

You need the crank holder tool.
Standing on the brakes ain't gonna make it happen.
So:

buy one, rent one, borrow one, make one.



with that, and a little of this:



and the correct tools:



you'll wonder why you ever tried the hard way

 

well will the crank holder make that much of a diff, like ive read other fourms and they say yeah 3 foot braker bar, comes right out, not the case here. the brakes make it so it doesnt move, what will the crank holder give me, jus want some info or tips so i dont have to pay $ to tow and $ for the mech
thanks guys, this is jus pissing me off

 

sleepin crx arent you on tsr? i thought you sold the car?
about your problem why try this put your car in 1st or reverse with the breaker bar aginst the ground then let car roll back haha id do it if I were in your situation

 

Once you get that bolt off, you should frame it.

 

tried that already, nothing.......

yeah i seriously will, GIMME IDEAS GUYS!!!!
argh

and yeah im on gtasr

 

yeah i borrowed the tool from my friend . I was lucky to break mine
loose easy. I used a 18" breaker bar and 18" ratchet.

 

first off, get some real tools on there, none of this mastercraft stuff...

Either rent a tool from somewhere, or get some air tools on that biatch

 

if you use 1/2 inch drives, they tend to be harder to break.

I had the same problem as you with 3/8ths, breaking extentions (snap on brand).

I also used a 5 or so foot piece of pipe on my breaker bar, make sure you put the breaker bar all the way into the pipe as it will give it less chance to flex and put more pressure on the bolt.

Good Luck!

 

I had 2 engines like that, I gave up

Where does this tool that stops the crank hook on?

For my brothers talons axle nuts I used a 8ft extension on a breaker bar and still had to jump on it to get them loose

-Dustin

 

I feel your pain, when doing a timing belt on a 87 integra, I ran into the same problems.

I was helping out a buddy at work, and we were just doing it in his garage though for his g/f. Well we broke a ton of extensions, and ratchets and bent a few pipes.

Until I had enough I brought over my compressor(just a 115 psi from harbor freight) with my Ingersol Rand 2135 Impact(the 1000 lbs. reverse torque one, NICE *** GUN BTW)

and a propane torch. GET THE FLYWHEEL HOLDER! this is a neccesity the only reason this is so hard for you is cause you have the wrong tools.

Im sure you removed the Flywheel cover plate, if not do that and insert the flywheel tool(you could use a really big flat head to but this will slip easily as it happened to me and his)

Hes not a big guy but we both grew up on farms so ( I dont know maybe were just a little tougher, plus at the job I was workin we were doin 22r5's which are 18 wheeler's tires, and rims everyday and skitsters, off of bobcats.)

He layed under the car, and put the flywheel tool in. I heated the bolt up for a good 5-8 minutes with the propane torch, get that thing glowing red!

then he grasped the tool with all his might and was pract. hanging from it. I put on my impact and blasted away, which got it after about 35 sec.

The impact may not always break it loose but it will free up tons of stress on the bolt, then you could prob. get it with a breaker bar after heating it up again.

HEAT IS YOUR FRIEND, and it wouldnt be a bad idea to go to a shop, but they will make you feel stupid most likely cause they will prob. bust it out in 5-10 min. lol, I never had a problem with any bolt in any shop I ever worked(axle nut, Crank pully bolt, engine mounts)
And did you say you broke a torque wrench??? I hope you werent using one to break the bolt loose, thats not what those are for!
GOOD LUCK THOUGH IN YOUR GARAGE, I FEEL YOUR PAIN THAT IS A PITA

 

I use the same method as 7PSI CRX, minus the crank holder. Heat up that bolt, then hit it with a quality impact gun with high pressure and there is no way it isn't coming off. Now just don't lose that key when you pull the pully off.

 

I looked for the tool on the snap-on site but couldn't find it. Anyone have a link?

 

Refering to heat being your friend, yeah, well.... There is a crank seal in behind there.... so... don't heat it like crazy as suggested, bearings/seals etc don't like to be red hot, they tend to melt and burn and do bad things. You may have..... may have got lucky. It still might come to bite you later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cottagecreep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Refering to heat being your friend, yeah, well.... There is a crank seal in behind there.... so... don't heat it like crazy as suggested, bearings/seals etc don't like to be red hot, they tend to melt and burn and do bad things. You may have..... may have got lucky. It still might come to bite you later.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point, if you have any doubts than replace the front main seal. But you shouldn't have to get it that hot.

 

1) don't use a torque wrench to break it.
2) Use the tool (I broke it without extenstions or heat when I used the tool)
3) A breaker bar that big would put more torque than an impact gun for sure. A Johnson bar would probably put more torque than an impact. I never use impact for anything.

The crank holder tool is what is important. If anyone has the part number LMK so I can order one from Honda.

 

Replace the seal it will cost you less then 15 bucks and it will only help you.

And if you only heat up the head of the bolt and around the threads, youll be fine. Ive done this numerous times since the first time I did this and have had no problems, and believe me Ive managed somtimes purposly/accidently to set things on fire.......lol

I do agree watch where your spraying the torch, dont sit there on the bolt for EVER but get it red hot, then crack it loose while its still hot, if you ruin the seal, replace it, it wont cost you hardly anything and it will only help you in the long run.

 

Hey, try this!!

I had tons of trouble getting my axleshaft nuts off(someohow that sounds funny)

anyway, I had a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 5 foot pipe. I STOOD on it, and I weigh 250 lbs, and it didn't come loose.

Its not the torque, you need an impact to break it loose.

I searched on this board and found this tip:

Put the breaker bar, with a long pipe on it, on there, and line it up, so its like a foot off the ground. Then get a heavy sledge hammer and smack the pipe as hard as you can. The jolt will break the nut loose, where often torque alone won't.

With me standing on the bar, I could see my 1/2 breaker bar bending, and knew it would break soon. But 1 hit with a sledge hammer broke both sides loose, first try!

Hope that helps! Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by haggar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I searched on this board and found this tip:

Put the breaker bar, with a long pipe on it, on there, and line it up, so its like a foot off the ground. Then get a heavy sledge hammer and smack the pipe as hard as you can. The jolt will break the nut loose, where often torque alone won't.

With me standing on the bar, I could see my 1/2 breaker bar bending, and knew it would break soon. But 1 hit with a sledge hammer broke both sides loose, first try!

Hope that helps! Good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

That sounds very similar to a tip I made about the axle shaft, except I said to hit the end of the axle w/ a sledge after you get the nut off.

So does this tool hook to the flywheel or to the front of the crank?

-Dustin