Last night I did all 4 rotors/pad on my sister's 95 EX. It was my first time doing Accord rotors. On my Civic and Prelude, it is simple....remove the caliper/bracket/2 rotor screws then it simply falls off. This Accord's rear rotors are easy, but the front were plain retarded. I removed the caliper/bracket, the 4 14mm bolts staring me in the face.The rotor was moving freely behind the hub/lugnuts, but that piece is pressed in. I wound up having to pop the lower balljoint, push the axle through, then startedrapping on the backside of the rotor until the wheel bearing seperated and the hub/rotor flew off. Why is it so hard to do these rotors? It seems like that is the only way to get the rotor off, by sepeating the wheel bearing. Is there an easier way? It is done now but for future reference I'd like to know.

Ef ***** = Accord Brake Noob

 

thats just the way its designed.....i guess honda decided to design 5th gens that way.....i dont know how else u can do it...when i had to replace the rotors on my 94, it was just as muc of a bitch.....welcome to the wonderful word of accords yo

 

IF you get a slide hammer (can rent them from place like autozone), this special tool helps alot when taking off those ******' pressed on rotors. For my car when I did the legend caliper, V6 rotor upgrade - all it took was a couple of "wacks" on the slide hammer and presto - rotor in hand.

HTH

 

they are hard core pressed from ohio

take the screw out with and replace them with bolts instead

6th gen are pressed as far as i know

 

i feel ur pain. had to go through the same ****. who ever designed it needs a hidden *** whoopn.

 

[QUOTE=Hondaaccordvtec]IF you get a slide hammer (can rent them from place like autozone), this special tool helps alot when taking off those ******' pressed on rotors. For my car when I did the legend caliper, V6 rotor upgrade - all it took was a couple of "wacks" on the slide hammer and presto - rotor in hand.

HTH
[/QUOT

I have a slap hammer.....where do you put it? On the edge of the hub/lugnut piece?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondaaccordvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> all it took was a couple of "wacks" on the slide hammer and presto - rotor in hand.

HTH
</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah, when I did the AEM upgrade I had never actually seen it done, so when he started pounding away with a slide hammer ias like WTF!!?? but yeah, slide hammer owns for hub-overs

 

Just line the slide hammer holes up with your lug studs and put lugs on them to hole the slide hammer in place. Then get ready to take out some aggression and "wack" away!

 

Will that method work with the lower balljoint/axle in place?(obviously with the axle nut off)

 

i tryed to remove my rotors before.. cuz i need them machined shiz.. i wished i read this before i got htem fixed.. costed me 130 to machined them on the car.. shiz.. cuz i had to replace one of my drive axles and while i am at i might as well take the rotor off. i got the drive axle off and all the brake stuff.. behind the rotor ther was 4 bolts i removed and still the rotor didnt come off. like you said they are pressed on.. if i hammer them off or use a puller.. will it be easy to put back in or do i need a press to press them back in?? i dunno thx for the help in advance..

 

easiest way is to take out the whole hub, take it to machine shop, get'em pressed out and replaced with new rotors for 20 bux. cost me 20 bux for 2. most machine shops don't have a set price for rotors so u can usually call em u and deal em down to 20 bux for the front pair. good luck....looks like i'll be doing it again soon too

 

Well, I'll be attempting this tonight. We'll see how it goes.


Modified by kowalcs at 12:39 PM 3/31/2004

 

I did my rotors last night on my '94 EX. Everything went pretty smooth. I wound up removing the entire knuckle from the car and used a 12mm socket with an extension on the hub bolts after I backed them out a little bit and whacked them with a mini-sledge hammer. Eventually the hub began to walk out. It really wasn't that bad of a job!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acclude559 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tryed to remove my rotors before.. cuz i need them machined shiz.. i wished i read this before i got htem fixed.. costed me 130 to machined them on the car.. shiz.. cuz i had to replace one of my drive axles and while i am at i might as well take the rotor off. i got the drive axle off and all the brake stuff.. behind the rotor ther was 4 bolts i removed and still the rotor didnt come off. like you said they are pressed on.. if i hammer them off or use a puller.. will it be easy to put back in or do i need a press to press them back in?? i dunno thx for the help in advance..</TD></TR></TABLE>

well if you take the 4 bolts out of the hub you do NOT have to separate the bearings...but you will most often find that they are rusted into the knuckle, use lust of wd40 or equiv. and knock them out of the knuckle once out take the four bolts out holding the rotor and reverse order with new rotors.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kowalcs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did my rotors last night on my '94 EX. Everything went pretty smooth. I wound up removing the entire knuckle from the car and used a 12mm socket with an extension on the hub bolts after I backed them out a little bit and whacked them with a mini-sledge hammer. Eventually the hub began to walk out. It really wasn't that bad of a job!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you do a step by step? Based on what you wrote it looks like you didn't use a slide hammer or anything like that.

After removing the knuckle, what do you mean when you say you backed the hub bolts out a little bit?

Thanks!

 

Ok, here's my step by step (leaving out the obvious).

1. Remove CV nut by using a long pipe on ratchet.
2. Remove caliper and caliper mounting bracket and support caliper with tie wrap secured to coil spring.
4. Disconnect ABS sensor and bolts securing brake line to knuckle.
3. Disconnect tie rod by beating on side of knuckle with a 4lb hammer a few times. No puller or pickle fork was used.
4. Disconnect upper and lower ball joints using same method as tie rod.
5. Now the knuckle should slide off around the axle.
6. Now you need to separate the hub/rotor assembly from the knuckle.
7. With assy on work bench spray down where hub and knuckle meet with liquid wrench or equiv.
8. Back out the 4 hub bolts a few turns. Install 12mm socket on bolts with a short 1/2" extension.
9. Support assy on one end and have a buddy hold the other end securely.
10. Use 4lb sledge to smack the socket/extension on each bolt until you see the hub start to separate.
11. Once the hub has started to separate, the bolts you loosened up will bottom out.
12. Back those bolts out a little bit more now and repeat this procedure until the hub/rotor assy is completely separated from the knuckle. (this will take a lot of beating and you'll probably ruin the extension)
13. Now you can remove the four fasteners holding the hub to the rotor and replace the rotor.

I hope this helps. It really wasn't a bad job. Make sure you spray a lot of penetrant on the hub before and during removal. Once you separate the hub from the knuckle, make sure you clean up the mating surfaces of the hub and knuckle with some sand paper so the hub slides back in there nice.
If you're worried about ruining the original bolts, go buy some new 10mm by 1.25 pitch by about 50 or 60mm long. I bought some 80mm bolts from Home Depot because it was all I could find and they wound up not being strong enough and were too long. They bent up pretty bad after just a few wacks. The original bolts didn't get damaged, however.

Oh, by the way. I originally tried using an air chisel instead of the mini sledge hammer and that didn't cut it. Also, having a buddy help is also a good idea. It would have been very difficult for me to support the knuckle and use the hammer at the same time. If you were to do it youself, you could leave the knuckle in the car by only disconnecting the lower ball joint and tie rod. We did try that first, but really couldn't smack it hard enough, so that's why we removed the knuckle.
Also, I didn't use a slide hammer because that method could damage the wheel bearing. I guess if you were going to replace your bearings a slide hammer would be a good method.