Well I'm about 95% sure that the slack myself and Trey have been experiencing in our ITR's is due to the CV joints going out. If I put the car on a level surface, leave it in 1st gear, I can move the car a good 3 inches back and forth. If I look down at the passenger inner CV joint throu the engine bay, and move the car back and forth, the inner joint does not move.

So now my question is do I rebuild, get a set of rebuilts or go for some gator axles? Has anybody ever rebuilt the CV joints on their ITR? The gator axles are only $309 for stage 1 (both axles shipped) so this is always an option, but if I can fix them cheaper, I'd like that. Anybody every use gator axles? There is no way I'm going new oem, as they are over $400 each.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

I believe there are lifetime ones at the local autozone and the likes. Just trade in your junks for core. $3xx and some change for both sides.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe there are lifetime ones at the local autozone and the likes. Just trade in your junks for core. $3xx and some change for both sides. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For that price, why not get a set of brand new gator axles?

 

autozone axles are 150 for the pair with lifetime warantee. This is what i'm doing.

Though the first set of axles i got from there were clicking and making other stupid noises, so i go another set and now they're perfect. I guess their quality isn't top notch, but lifetime warantee makes up for that.

 

What were the part numbers? The people working at my local Autozone are about as smart as a bag of hammers.

 

Anyone got a spare set of axels near Southeast TN? I'll give anything a shot. Beats pulling the tranny to test the clutch theory too.

 

I threw away the boxes they came in, sorry man. Try calling another autozone and hope for someone with reading skills and get the part number from them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AssPenny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I'm about 95% sure that the slack myself and Trey have been experiencing in our ITR's is due to the CV joints going out. If I put the car on a level surface, leave it in 1st gear, I can move the car a good 3 inches back and forth. If I look down at the passenger inner CV joint throu the engine bay, and move the car back and forth, the inner joint does not move.

So now my question is do I rebuild, get a set of rebuilts or go for some gator axles? Has anybody ever rebuilt the CV joints on their ITR? The gator axles are only $309 for stage 1 (both axles shipped) so this is always an option, but if I can fix them cheaper, I'd like that. Anybody every use gator axles? There is no way I'm going new oem, as they are over $400 each.

Thanks for the help guys. </TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, I've only helped reboot my origional axle, and since there was no filth inside everything was fine and dandy.

A Great person to talk to about this is rodney (he's gonna kill me one day when he see's all the people I keep referring to him.)

At any rate, he was blowing through axles for what seemed like Every weekend this last season: brand new, remanned, minimal mileage, GSR, ITR, upgraded what have you, he broke it on his nationally successful SCCA solo2 Hybrid civic.

He would I'm sure warn against any remanned axles and I'm also sure has a load of other comments and good advice to share on this particular topic. And has since gone to an aftermarket axle that he hasn't seemed to be able bust wide open quite yet.

I don't know all the specifics so I would strongly urge you contact him (IM here) to see just how he solved his issue.

Best of luck.


Anton

 

Did you have to bring in your old ones in for "core exchange" ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AssPenny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you have to bring in your old ones in for "core exchange" ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

When i first went, i didn't bring the cores so technically I bought two at roughly 300 total. I went back home changed them and brought them my old core, and they refunded my $150. Bringing them the old core first would make things less complicated, I guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AssPenny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you have to bring in your old ones in for "core exchange" ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The losers at Autozone are some dumb, the will take a log as a core.

They are decent axles and can last a long time without abuse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Teggie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can last a long time without abuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um... ok thouse are out of the pictures then

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asahi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone got a spare set of axels near Southeast TN? I'll give anything a shot. Beats pulling the tranny to test the clutch theory too.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Raises hand.

i however, think both of you should just ignore it till it goes away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Raises hand.

i however, think both of you should just ignore it till it goes away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all, you have a set of GSR axles, and from what I heard they don't work on itrs.

Second of all, shut the hell up or i'll come up there and woop your *** D, you know i'd ignore it as long as I can, but I'm really getting tired of the car lunging every time i get on and off the gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AssPenny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

First of all, you have a set of GSR axles, and from what I heard they don't work on itrs.

Second of all, shut the hell up or i'll come up there and woop your *** D, you know i'd ignore it as long as I can, but I'm really getting tired of the car lunging every time i get on and off the gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

then buy a ******* automatic caddy ya sissy *** clowshoe wearing bitch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Teggie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The losers at Autozone are some dumb, the will take a log as a core.

They are decent axles and can last a long time without abuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah and they'll also give you the wrong friggen axles.

I went through 3 axles from them for my beater Sentra till they finally got it right, Even though I provided my VIN and knew all the specs of the car each time I went in to purchase or exchange an axle they'd give me the wrong friggen one.


On the last successful attempt, I resigned to just bring in the old axle and by that time I had gone through all 3 different types of axle for my particular car. Only by process of elimination did they finally give me the Correct part.

If you can, bring the old core with you.

If you can't, just bring the core back at a later date for refund or core charge.

And I think if I remember correctly, the reciept for the remanned Autozone junk is lifetime warrentied for replacement.

Go figure.


Just remember it's never fun to do an axle swap in NY in the driving 35 degree rain or during a sub zero snowstorm, Both of which we did to get the Sentra rollin again. But, for $58. replacign the axle was better than buying a new car or bummin rides from my wife any longer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Raises hand.

i however, think both of you should just ignore it till it goes away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Kinda like 3rd gear grind

no the serious tip though, check here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=434667 as there are a few options listed. GCK are relatively cheap compared to DSS. http://www.Raxles.com has them pretty cheap as well. Ive seen too many autozone axles break repeatedly on stock B16s so personally I would not go with them. I ended up going with DSS and had to send one back because it seemed to have some "play" in the CV joint, the sent out a new one next day and so far so good.

 

i have used driveshaft shop stage one & stage two, reman. axles (autozone, carquest, aa auto) and also raxles driveshafts.

my experience has been that driveshaft shop axles are absolute garbage for a car with an aggresive lsd and only moderate hp. they have excessive play which results in vibration at speed, and eventually blow up (3,000 miles at best). aa auto and autozone axles are junk, as i have had them break from my sisters stock auto civic to my personal b series hybrid. who gives a fugg about lifetime warranty. i don;t want to be in the middle of a national level autocross, and have to swap axles between runs. carquest must have a better axle distributor, as their axles are always nice and work under stock applications quite well. oem by far surpasses any of the reman axles by a mile, as i have only broken one oem axle.

then there is my solution to axle problems.... RAXLES! i called marty from raxles up, told him i am sick of breaking cv's, and after a lengthy talk, he sent me his IMSA roadrace axles, which to date i have not had any problems with. i wholeheartedly recommend him and his axles!

*note: let it be known i have not broken an axle shaft, just inner/outer cv's(mostly outer, only the dss axles had inner joint wear). i am not a dragracer, and do not break them on the "launch", but break them at 30 mph or more. i don't wanna hear any bitches whining about installation error, or that my car is too low (as it is not). i have a seriously aggresive lsd, combined with very wide sticky hoosiers on 15x8.5" wheels, lfb and the outer cv's give up eventually under the strain.

edit: my last oem axle




Modified by rodney at 2:46 PM 1/20/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Yeah and they'll also give you the wrong friggen axles.

I went through 3 axles from them for my beater Sentra till they finally got it right, Even though I provided my VIN and knew all the specs of the car each time I went in to purchase or exchange an axle they'd give me the wrong friggen one.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>


That's why whenever I goto Autozone to pick up some parts. Instead of going through the frustration of narrowing it down with the representative.
I would goto http://www.autozone.com myself and find out the right part # and save the hassel of explaining it to them.

 

I'm running the Stage 2 axles from http://www.driveshaftshop.com
I bought them on Ebay, they were selling the Stage 2 axles for the Stage 1 prices, saved $300 that way. I haven't had any problems with them. I've got about 11k miles on them, street miles, but VERY hard street miles. Brad

 

Go to advanced and get GCK's, they are sick , Lifetime warranty and they are a sahit load heavier duty than stock and prob most sets of stage 2's at the least
oh yea i got mine undder $200 for the set brand new , not remans

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running the Stage 2 axles from I haven't had any problems with them. I've got about 11k miles on them, street miles, but VERY hard street miles. Brad</TD></TR></TABLE>

street miles are totally different that race miles. after numerous axles and someone on the other end of the line at driveshaftshop telling me to stop dumping the clutch, i gave up. the guy could not understand that i was breaking them through fast slaloms or in fast tight corners. i invited him out to one of my local events to see exactly what i use my car for, and then he proceded to ask whether i was running "wrinkle walls" or not....

 

i'd just go with the Autozone/Advance lifetime warranty units.
they don't list them for a GSR(i have a C1 in my car),so i went with LS parts.not sure if they list R parts in their computer,so it may be necesary to substitute.
i get a pretty good life out of them on my setup at 12psi.only problem is they're kind of hit or miss-sometimes i get really good condition ones,sometimes i'd swear they put new boots on a worn out axle and re-boxed it.
i've also tried OEM Honda axles in the past,and they didn't last even as long as some parts store axles i've had.no advantage there as far as i can tell-just higher priced.
usually,when i do a warranty exchange,i take old passenger side D-Series axles for the core(i have a stockpile of them from doing swaps).at a glance they look the same as either of the B-series parts,so i now have a backup supply of slightly used B-series axle sets

unles you're making pretty outrageous HP,or drag race a lot,i'd just stick with the parts store reman'd axles.for about $150 per set with cores,you can't beat it.i spent that initial $150 about three years ago,and have gotten numerous sets of replacements since then for free.
as i said above,the quality seems to vary,but for the most part they're usually acceptable.i've had one occasion where i got an axle that was so sketchy that i never even installed it.i took it back and they replaced it and opologized.i've had one catastrophic failure where an axle shaft broke totally in two.this was after i'd neglected changing an axle i knew was going bad for some time.usually i get pretty good life out of them,and just change them out after they start making the usual knocking sound when making slow turns.
for the price i'm happy.
chris

 

autozone remans here for 150/pair w/ lifetime warranty...havnt gone out on me yet

 

I rebuilt my stocks with parts from Len and no problem yet, just make sure your axles are in good condition to rebuild.

Total $ was under 100 and it took a day.