Sup all,

In the process of boosting my ride and I know my thermostat has begun to stick prior to pulling my car off the road. Therefore I need a replacement. I did a search and came up with some info...however I would like to know weather a cooler thermo is actually beneficial to the longivity of ur motor? will running a little cooler help in the long run? Or should I just purchase an acura one and not worry?....also...what brand would u guys recommend....jackson racing or pepboys/autozone style?? spoon and stay where it is for that price!

 

if you mean a lower temp thermostat that does not keep your car cooler necessarily, it just begins to open at a lower temp than stock, save your money and buy the factory 5 dollar one, mugen or spoon want like 60 bucks for theirs i dont see the 55dolar added value for a part made in the same factory.

P.S> I have one and regret paying the extra $$$

 

get oem honda dont get autozone or the like.....

 

ok then...is it beneficial to have a thermostat that opens at a cooler temp?? what are the advantages of this **** if it doesn't actually make ur motor run cooler??

 

How can it make ure motor run cooler? it is the same as the thermostat in ure house, one the temp it is set for is reached it kicks on the fans. So a lower temp one would just turn the fans on sooner. Just modify your car to where u can turn it on with a switch, then u can turb fans on as soon as you start the car.

 

personally , i firmly believe that honda set your running temp for optimal performance.....thus i dont think that lowering your temp is what you should be worried about , but rather making sure it stays where honda wanted it and not get hot...see what im sayin?

so get a stock one , get regular coolant...put 3 small drops of liquid soap(yes im serious)into your radiator....and call it a day

p.s. the soap does the exact same thing as redline water wetter......

 

The OEM thermostat lets your engine warm up to the correct temp for your engine. After that it's the condition of the rest of your cooling system that keeps it cool. Removing the thermostat or other hack jobs will only cause problems. OEM thermostat opens at around 160 degrees. If your fan doesn't kick on don't hard wire it, just spend $20 or so dollars and get a factory OEM temp switch and do it right. They always go bad over time and it takes 10 minutes to install.

I run a turbo B16 with a stock 140k mile stock VX radiator but have a new temp switch, thermostat, and coolant flush, and the cars temp is always perfect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crackerballer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can it make ure motor run cooler? it is the same as the thermostat in ure house, one the temp it is set for is reached it kicks on the fans. So a lower temp one would just turn the fans on sooner. Just modify your car to where u can turn it on with a switch, then u can turb fans on as soon as you start the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually your thermostat doesnt switch the fans on.

if you put a 160 degree in say then thats the temp it will open and let the water run through the radiator. i have a 170 in and thats what it stays at give or take 10 deg. when im driving. when im at idle it reaches 205 before my fans kick on. i think its benificial if your running hotter than youde like to. im getting a 160 personally.......

Landon

 

Dang, I thought that does turn on ure fans? What does turn on ure fans?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crackerballer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dang, I thought that does turn on ure fans? What does turn on ure fans?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Coolant temp switch located on the thermostat housing, has a brown plug. These are known for going out and causing everyone to wire a manual switch to the fan instead of replacing the $20 part

 

So is it a bad idea to run a switch to your fans or not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Coolant temp switch located on the thermostat housing, has a brown plug. These are known for going out and causing everyone to wire a manual switch to the fan instead of replacing the $20 part </TD></TR></TABLE>

yep thats what i did with mine , tee hee

 

We were running a Spoon on Brian's B18C/EJ6 during the summer and it was causing a lot of tuning problems... One pull would be perfect, the next would totally be ****... With the ECT reading different temps (between letting the car cool down between pulls and not) nothing was staying consistent... Swapped it out for an OE theremostat and everything worked perfect... Just something to keep in mind...

 

i had a hard time bleeding the air out of cooling system this summer and the temp would rise often. it would take a LONG time for the system to bleep all the air, not only that but i was racing often and noticed that the temp would rise at 3 runs.

i bought a new Autozone Thermostat and drilled 8 little holes throughout the thermostat. that solved all my problems. the system would bleed faster becuz it always had a little coolant flowing through it becuz i no longer had to wait for the thermostat to open up. the temp stopped rising after taking 4-5 passes.

the only PROBLEM i have now is that it's Extremely cold here in NY and since the thermostat has the holes, the temp doesn't rise too much. it normally stays on the low side.

i would suggest drilling holes if you're going to use that thermostat for the summer and switching to a normal thermostat for the winter.

 

Kataku2k3...this was another concern of mine....did u let the car reach the minimum running temperature before the next pull? I think based on everyones reply..I gonna stick with the oem thermo...

 

Between pulls we normally cool the motors for ~10-15 minutes (with the dyno fan still running), the motor is definately still within normal operating temperature but on the next pull we would just about always cross through the thermostats close/open point... With the OEM unit it seems as tho the ECT doesn't see as much temperature variation (being a higher close/open point) which gets you farther over on the temp/fuel enrichment table...

 

i went the modified thermostat route once but couldnt take it in the winter.....and i didnt like hte variation in temp in the summer!! it would take too long to warm up , and if it wasnt hella hot outside the temp would fluctuate and it drove me nuts.....
if i were to do it now id drill one small hole just to let keep the pressure moving better.....my modified one had 4 it was too much IMO

 

I know the ECU needs to see 170F water temp to get out of cold start loop.

 

thats an interesting piece o info i didnt know

 

I figured it out by running a electric water temp gauge.

Once I figure out the ideal temp was 170F when staging, I became deadly consistant. If I let the car cool down TOO much, water temp at like 150 when staging, I'd be .2-.3 seconds slower.

How consistant am I?????

 

I don't know if this is recommended or not but I took mine out completely and my car has been running great ever since, I live in South Florida were it gets damn hot. Anyone have any reasons this would be a bad thing to do???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by space-tuna &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone have any reasons this would be a bad thing to do??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your engine will run hotter because coolant is now flowing freely with no thermostat to slow the process. The radiator doesn't have time to do it's job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your engine will run hotter because coolant is now flowing freely with no thermostat to slow the process. The radiator doesn't have time to do it's job.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, the radiator will still do its job, but the engine will run hotter and you won't even know it. Without a thermostat/restrictor, the coolant will flow through the engine too quickly and there won't be enough time for the coolant to absorb the heat from the motor. Your temperature gauge will read nice and cold, but your engine will be burning hot in reality.

Running a low temp thermostat will help a bit to prevent engine heatsoak... But that only helps if you have a very beefy cooling system which has no problem cooling your motor under all circumstances.

 

How will the radiator cool the coolant as effectively if it's just flowing straight through? Isn't it the same concept as the coolant flowing through the block not having time to absorb the heat of the cylinder walls?

 

So even though my temp gauge is reading cooler, my car is no longer overheating, and it takes a lot longer to warm up- my engine is running hotter???