I noticed tht lately it has been getting harder to put my car into gear so I adjusted the clutch. It helped some, but then my car wouldn't start. So I traced it down to the clutch safety switch. I jumped the switch and it fired right up. Upon inspecting my pedal it has started twisting to the right. It is making some wierd metal creaking noises when I press it. I have a fealing I am about to have tramatic clutch pedal failure. Is their replacement bushings for this? Anyone else experience this? I REALLY don't want to replace the whole pedal assembly.

http://www.pittmansbjj.com/Honda.htm


Modified by Bontke at 9:17 PM 1/16/2004

 

your clutch pedal bracket is about snap. You better reinforce it before it does. Mine snapped on me a while back and I had to strip the whole dash to ghetto fix it...but it's not moving now :D to fix it properly you'll have to remove EVERYTHING from you dash to get the bracket off....dash, air passages, steering column, everything. my advice...don't drive it until you can get it fixed b/c once it snaps it's undriveable.

 

Quite a few people with heavy clutches have broke them.

 

What exactly fails? THe pedal or the frame it rests in? The way the pedal is slightly crooked it looks like just the bushing or bolt that holds it in is bad. I am going to investigate the problem today and report back.

 

it's the bracket that the pedal mounts to. It's a very poor design in my opinion.

 

Broke my bracket recently. Taking that mamacita out is an uppercut in the knickers. You will have to remove the steering column and a heater line. I did it without removing the dash. Pain in the ***. If i were you id get a new bracket, rewelding it will hold for awhile but ive had a bad experience after rewelding. It was hard to press the clutch pedal and it broke again a year later.

 

Well I looked at the pedal and a weld near the brake pedal where the clutch arm bolt goes has broken. How long would a replacement last? I figure that I can redesign the pedal assembly to hold up better. There has to be a way to get it to hold up longer. I start the disassembly tonight! this is really going to suck, but I will take some pics.

 

i had mine break, was a bitch to replace, had to take steering assembly out to get to the bracket

 

I got the assembly out. I did a quick write up with pics for those interestred. I am going to try and weld it and add a brace that should solve the problem. I will report back with the upadates. Here's the link:

http://www.pittmansbjj.com/Honda.htm

 

Well I had the repair done today. I would have put it in but it decided to snow like a bitch....in TEXAS!! So I will put it in tomorrow. I updated the link for those curious for pictures.

 

I took my return spring off the clutch pedal. God knows there is enough of clutch return FORCE from the aftermarket pressure plate.

 

nice pictures. That's where mine broke too. Not sure why honda designed it like that.

 

I have it all in and I can say the the car shifts extreemly better than when I bought it. I am simply amazed. I bought a JDM Y1 with LSD that was said to have no grinds. When I put it in it grinded in 3rd. I was pissed. But now it doesn't grind at all and shifts like butter. I am such a fool.... and for those who have a grinding and sticky shifting transmission, you might want to do this repair.

 

how difficult was it to remove the steering column, out of curiousity?

 

broke mine too. bought a new assembly and got rid of the stiff pp

 

The steering column was easy to remove. It has 4 bolts under the dash that hold it down. It also has a a long bolt towords the rear that it pivots on (allowing you to adjust the steering wheel heigth). Then one clamping the steering nuckle assembly together. Unplug the wiring harness's and it comes out.

 

so you didn't even have to pull the steering wheel off? I know that a bunch of wires plug in there for the turn signals, brights, etc.... Or did you just pull the plastic cover off and pull those wires out and then undo the bolts? I looked at it when i did mine and i couldn't see an easy way to get it out and the helms i had didn't seem to explain it very well

 

You don't need to pull the steering wheel. Just remove the upper and lower plastic covers and you will see 2 plugs on one side and 2 on the other. The ignition switch unplugs a bit further down and one plug runs to the fuse block. Next you will want to unbolt the steering knuckle. It has a round cover that has three plastic snaps and 2 metal rings that hold it in. Remove it to get to the nuckle bolt and remove it. Next you will want to remove the bolts that hold the column in. It is straight foreward but I also have many years of experience with this stuff.

 

cool, thanks. It seemed like it would be pretty straight forward but according to the helms i was needing all these special tools to reassemble it an all. I was like :-\ I thought it would be pretty simple and what you describe is about how i thought it would be.