To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (56K can EAD)
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From: Gainesville, FL
To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (56K can EAD)
I'm cross posting this from the RR/AutoX forum ( https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=731463 ) and I'd be happy to answer questions in either thread.
My limited budget and great need to get my brake ducts up and running by next weekend forced a project that may have otherwise sat on the back burner for a while. I found a local metal distributor that had aluminum sheet stock, and I picked up a 4'x10' (yea, huge) sheet of 0.040" aluminum at a very good price since it was scratched. I now have enough material to make a total of 5 or so airdams, so I have room to experiment with designs. My goal was to make something rigid, light, removable, and legal for road racing. I also needed something that could house my brake duct openings since the '88 bumper doesn't have the OEM foglight mouldings and I have to keep the wiper bottle and all that other garbage which is right in the way behind the bumper. Anyway, here are some pictures of what I ended up with as a first attempt. It has yet to be painted but I figure it's easier to see in its raw color. I intend to replace the current hardware with dzus fasteners at some point, but right now the allen head bolts and wingnuts make for a sub-5 minute install/removal so I can't complain. Once the SBMS brake ducts arrive this week I'll get everything put together and we'll see how it works this weekend at AMP.
Some impressions:
0.040" is a good thickness to work with. It's easy on the consumables (cutting wheels, grinders, etc) but it's very rigid when used in small pieces. It requires being pounded/folded over on the bottom edge for some added stability. I would not leave the bottom edge flat as it's not that strong. I have the option to add an undertray as a result of the bottom edge design, and I think I would need a slightly thicker piece for that application.
It is much lighter than I expected. The addition of the ABS plastic brake ducts added a very signifiant amount of weight, which gives you an idea of how light the aluminum structure is. I'll get it on the scale when I can, but I'm sure it's sub 5 lbs even with the brake ducts.
I need to figure out a good way to make the height adjustable so that it doesn't limit the suspension adjustments I can make and still be legal under IT rules. I removed my OEM lip to make room for this one, so the total height change is only about 2.5" from where I was before. I need to raise up my coilovers by 1" all around anyway, so I'm only loosing about 1.5" in the front. It's still above legal height but I'm not sure exactly by how much.
This air dam, as pictured, represents about 6 total hours worth of work. If it gets destroyed by an "off," I could rebuild it in under 2 hours now that I know what I'm doing. So, if you're a starving student and your time has no monitary value, this might be a good way to save some money compared to buying an air dam. However, if you make some good money at work, 6 hours may make this project a waste of time and you'd be better off buying somthing that's no doubt much better quality.
Finally, if anyone cares to comment on the design or legality of this piece, I would appreciate it. I made no cuts into the OEM bumper for the ducting, so there is no restriction on the size of the hole I could cut for the ducts (unlike if I were to cut them into the bumper). As long as I keep it above the minimum height, I see no reason this would not be legal under current IT/HC/PS rules. No?
Pics:
The back, folded bottom edge for stability:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg
A close up of the duct and hardware:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg
The whole thing installed:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg
uncleben was kind enough to resize these pictures for me. Click the link for larger images if you want them. All pics are on WTDR, so be patient.
As for the brake ducts, here's another cross post from the RR/AutoX forum ( https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=732832 )
Okay, technically this review is premature since the ducts have never seen the surface of a racetrack. However, unless there's a little flap inside these ducts that comes down to block air from reaching my rotors, I think I can make some comments based on my limited experience. First, I ordered these ducts from:
SBMS racing: http://www.sbmsinc.com/race_shop.html
It is clear from the design that a great deal of thought went into making these and that they are very carefully measured in order to fit. I might have been able to make these myself, but I easily would have spent an entire day and wasted a lot of materials before I had anything usable. For that reason, I think they're money well spent. On top of that, Tom at SBMS shipped these ducts before I had even paid him just so I would have them in time to race this weekend. Amazing. If HT still had those little star icons, he'd get 5 of them.
Anyway, here's a picture of the ducts:
The build quality is excellent. There's no leaks or cracks and no huge chunks of metal in the way of the air flow. They are designed to accept 2.5" hose which is my only complaint (although to their credit, I didn't actually ask if they could be made for larger hose). I used a little adapter to fit my 3" hose and we're in business. As for the install and fit, let's just say I had these babies on the car in under 3 minutes and I didn't even have to remove the caliper or rotor. Okay, I did already have the car on jack stands and the wheels were off, but still, piece 'o cake. The fit is perfect. They tuck right under the knuckle out of the way of everything and there is just enough play in the bolt holes to get everything in place just right before you tighten them down. Also, the mount is very strong...these aren't going anywhere.
Passenger side, installed:
The hose connection was tight, esp with the 3" hose. I ran it basically straight down to the radius rod and then back out to the duct just so I knew for sure they wouldn't contact the tire under a full turn of the wheel. I'll replace the zip ties around the hose/rod with hose clamps just to make it more sturdy, but I suspect they would hold.
Finally, here's a pic from both sides with the hose and everythign installed, ready for a wheel. Nevermind the pixie dust everywhere, that's bondo from the roof project:
Passenger side:
Driver side. Note the location of the hose and duct under the required water bottle. Damn that water bottle...much of this project wouldn't have been necessary if I could remove that bottle and duct through the bumper:
As usual, sorry for the huge pics. Can anyone suggest a free, downloadable program to resize pics before posting?
I welcome any comments, especially the ones that say "dude, bad idea" since I don't want to do anything stupid.
Modified by travis at 1:10 PM 1/15/2004
My limited budget and great need to get my brake ducts up and running by next weekend forced a project that may have otherwise sat on the back burner for a while. I found a local metal distributor that had aluminum sheet stock, and I picked up a 4'x10' (yea, huge) sheet of 0.040" aluminum at a very good price since it was scratched. I now have enough material to make a total of 5 or so airdams, so I have room to experiment with designs. My goal was to make something rigid, light, removable, and legal for road racing. I also needed something that could house my brake duct openings since the '88 bumper doesn't have the OEM foglight mouldings and I have to keep the wiper bottle and all that other garbage which is right in the way behind the bumper. Anyway, here are some pictures of what I ended up with as a first attempt. It has yet to be painted but I figure it's easier to see in its raw color. I intend to replace the current hardware with dzus fasteners at some point, but right now the allen head bolts and wingnuts make for a sub-5 minute install/removal so I can't complain. Once the SBMS brake ducts arrive this week I'll get everything put together and we'll see how it works this weekend at AMP.
Some impressions:
0.040" is a good thickness to work with. It's easy on the consumables (cutting wheels, grinders, etc) but it's very rigid when used in small pieces. It requires being pounded/folded over on the bottom edge for some added stability. I would not leave the bottom edge flat as it's not that strong. I have the option to add an undertray as a result of the bottom edge design, and I think I would need a slightly thicker piece for that application.
It is much lighter than I expected. The addition of the ABS plastic brake ducts added a very signifiant amount of weight, which gives you an idea of how light the aluminum structure is. I'll get it on the scale when I can, but I'm sure it's sub 5 lbs even with the brake ducts.
I need to figure out a good way to make the height adjustable so that it doesn't limit the suspension adjustments I can make and still be legal under IT rules. I removed my OEM lip to make room for this one, so the total height change is only about 2.5" from where I was before. I need to raise up my coilovers by 1" all around anyway, so I'm only loosing about 1.5" in the front. It's still above legal height but I'm not sure exactly by how much.
This air dam, as pictured, represents about 6 total hours worth of work. If it gets destroyed by an "off," I could rebuild it in under 2 hours now that I know what I'm doing. So, if you're a starving student and your time has no monitary value, this might be a good way to save some money compared to buying an air dam. However, if you make some good money at work, 6 hours may make this project a waste of time and you'd be better off buying somthing that's no doubt much better quality.
Finally, if anyone cares to comment on the design or legality of this piece, I would appreciate it. I made no cuts into the OEM bumper for the ducting, so there is no restriction on the size of the hole I could cut for the ducts (unlike if I were to cut them into the bumper). As long as I keep it above the minimum height, I see no reason this would not be legal under current IT/HC/PS rules. No?
Pics:
The back, folded bottom edge for stability:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg
A close up of the duct and hardware:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg
The whole thing installed:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg
uncleben was kind enough to resize these pictures for me. Click the link for larger images if you want them. All pics are on WTDR, so be patient.
As for the brake ducts, here's another cross post from the RR/AutoX forum ( https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=732832 )
Okay, technically this review is premature since the ducts have never seen the surface of a racetrack. However, unless there's a little flap inside these ducts that comes down to block air from reaching my rotors, I think I can make some comments based on my limited experience. First, I ordered these ducts from:
SBMS racing: http://www.sbmsinc.com/race_shop.html
It is clear from the design that a great deal of thought went into making these and that they are very carefully measured in order to fit. I might have been able to make these myself, but I easily would have spent an entire day and wasted a lot of materials before I had anything usable. For that reason, I think they're money well spent. On top of that, Tom at SBMS shipped these ducts before I had even paid him just so I would have them in time to race this weekend. Amazing. If HT still had those little star icons, he'd get 5 of them.
Anyway, here's a picture of the ducts:
The build quality is excellent. There's no leaks or cracks and no huge chunks of metal in the way of the air flow. They are designed to accept 2.5" hose which is my only complaint (although to their credit, I didn't actually ask if they could be made for larger hose). I used a little adapter to fit my 3" hose and we're in business. As for the install and fit, let's just say I had these babies on the car in under 3 minutes and I didn't even have to remove the caliper or rotor. Okay, I did already have the car on jack stands and the wheels were off, but still, piece 'o cake. The fit is perfect. They tuck right under the knuckle out of the way of everything and there is just enough play in the bolt holes to get everything in place just right before you tighten them down. Also, the mount is very strong...these aren't going anywhere.
Passenger side, installed:
The hose connection was tight, esp with the 3" hose. I ran it basically straight down to the radius rod and then back out to the duct just so I knew for sure they wouldn't contact the tire under a full turn of the wheel. I'll replace the zip ties around the hose/rod with hose clamps just to make it more sturdy, but I suspect they would hold.
Finally, here's a pic from both sides with the hose and everythign installed, ready for a wheel. Nevermind the pixie dust everywhere, that's bondo from the roof project:
Passenger side:
Driver side. Note the location of the hose and duct under the required water bottle. Damn that water bottle...much of this project wouldn't have been necessary if I could remove that bottle and duct through the bumper:
As usual, sorry for the huge pics. Can anyone suggest a free, downloadable program to resize pics before posting?
I welcome any comments, especially the ones that say "dude, bad idea" since I don't want to do anything stupid.
Modified by travis at 1:10 PM 1/15/2004
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Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (travis)
Nice work...
your last post did not have the rotor end of the ducts.. do they place air on the middle vents fo the disks too?
your last post did not have the rotor end of the ducts.. do they place air on the middle vents fo the disks too?
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From: Connecticut, USA
Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (Outsane)
thats pretty sweet... 
if you want to see how much air flow is getting through and you happen to have a leaf blower that would be a great way to see if it works well or not since you can measure the max air flow of the blower, and then have some #s to figure out how much flow your losing from the bumper to the brake system.
just a thought.
if you want to see how much air flow is getting through and you happen to have a leaf blower that would be a great way to see if it works well or not since you can measure the max air flow of the blower, and then have some #s to figure out how much flow your losing from the bumper to the brake system.
just a thought.
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From: Baltimore, Md, USA
Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts
Thats very creative but if you wanted to cool your brakes why not just get some vented or slotted rotors or something.
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From: Mechanicville, NY, USA
Theoretically this should work much better than slotted or drilled rotors, which in their attempts to cool efficiently take away material obviously. Lets say your rotor has 35 square inches of surface area for the pads to grab, well cut some slots and drill holes and now youre down to say 27 or so, all just to do what he has done here.
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Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (FourthGenHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourthGenHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just get some vented or slotted rotors or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>
These rotors are vented (well, if vents = vanes). Look at the side. As for slotted rotors, those run hotter, not colder.
Doh,
The tape is to keep broken glass or plastic from being spread over the track surface after contact. It keeps all the pieces together and most tracks require it. I don't know why you would do it for autocross or drag racing.
Outsane,
I'll see if I can get back there to take a picture of where they vent. Part of the vent goes directly onto the rotor face which is not optimal, but a good portion is directed into the center vanes.
mansonclubpuir,
That's actually not a bad idea!
These rotors are vented (well, if vents = vanes). Look at the side. As for slotted rotors, those run hotter, not colder.
Doh,
The tape is to keep broken glass or plastic from being spread over the track surface after contact. It keeps all the pieces together and most tracks require it. I don't know why you would do it for autocross or drag racing.
Outsane,
I'll see if I can get back there to take a picture of where they vent. Part of the vent goes directly onto the rotor face which is not optimal, but a good portion is directed into the center vanes.
mansonclubpuir,
That's actually not a bad idea!
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Ahh, I see. Also something to remember FourthGenHatch, is that brakes optimum performance comes from warm temperatures, not hot, not cold. If he used slotted/drilled rotors in addition to these ducts it might be too cold and not grab well enough.
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Re: (Doh!)
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Re: (Doh!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doh! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ahh, I see. Also something to remember FourthGenHatch, is that brakes optimum performance comes from warm temperatures, not hot, not cold. If he used slotted/drilled rotors in addition to these ducts it might be too cold and not grab well enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>
While you are correct that the race pads I use are designed to run in a high heat range (optimal temp range for the Cobalt Spec B's is 300-1000F), I wouldn't drop below this range even if I packed the ducts with ice. Slotted rotors generate more friction between the rotor and pad compared to blank rotors, and this creates heat, not cold. If I thought for a second that slotted rotors would cool my brakes, I would have them already.
While you are correct that the race pads I use are designed to run in a high heat range (optimal temp range for the Cobalt Spec B's is 300-1000F), I wouldn't drop below this range even if I packed the ducts with ice. Slotted rotors generate more friction between the rotor and pad compared to blank rotors, and this creates heat, not cold. If I thought for a second that slotted rotors would cool my brakes, I would have them already.
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Re: (McDade)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by McDade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">travis you could always run the trial version of photoshop
http://www.adobe.com/products/...ct=39 </TD></TR></TABLE>
To resize pics? Yea, that's an idea. Ideally I would like something really simple that I could "batch resize" or something like that.
http://www.adobe.com/products/...ct=39 </TD></TR></TABLE>
To resize pics? Yea, that's an idea. Ideally I would like something really simple that I could "batch resize" or something like that.
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Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (The Raven)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Raven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> how much will you fab me one for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
...you get the idea.
Actually, if you remove the water bottle, you can duct the hose directly through the bumper and it's much easier. And it WAY easy if you remove the water bottle and you have an 89-91 CRX with the fog light cutouts.
McDade,
Batch resize is good. I'll check it out. Thanks!
...you get the idea.
Actually, if you remove the water bottle, you can duct the hose directly through the bumper and it's much easier. And it WAY easy if you remove the water bottle and you have an 89-91 CRX with the fog light cutouts.
McDade,
Batch resize is good. I'll check it out. Thanks!
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Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (travis)
my dd wants these, but not much of a point in doing it just for dd.
since my kvr cross drilled rotors already cracked a hair over 2 years old.
since my kvr cross drilled rotors already cracked a hair over 2 years old.
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From: USA
Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (travis)
ill reszie the pics and host them for you if you cut me a good deal. right now i am carless. but i am getting a ef so thats not a problem.
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Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (The Raven)
lol wow did say that.... i've been watching way too much Myth Busters. LMAO
let me know how it works out.
let me know how it works out.
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From: West Palm Beach, Fl, USA
Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (mansonclubpuir)
Travis,
This is a very good write up, and may save me some time in making my own brake vents. I was planing on using the same "rotor coolers" that you got, only attaching the vents right to the front of the bumper, instead of fabricating and entire air damn. I still may look into doing what BRE did with their "Spook." In the late 60s they bent the rules in the SCCA production classes and added and "brake vent" underneath the front of the car that just so happened to act as front spoiler, which was (not sure if it still is) illegal in C/D production. It was quite a cleaver invention.
This is a very good write up, and may save me some time in making my own brake vents. I was planing on using the same "rotor coolers" that you got, only attaching the vents right to the front of the bumper, instead of fabricating and entire air damn. I still may look into doing what BRE did with their "Spook." In the late 60s they bent the rules in the SCCA production classes and added and "brake vent" underneath the front of the car that just so happened to act as front spoiler, which was (not sure if it still is) illegal in C/D production. It was quite a cleaver invention.
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From: Netherlands
Not a lot of comment on the brake ducts... as I don't let my car see much track days 
but you CAN remove the wiper fluid reservoir and make a different one...
A friend of mine used my old expension reservoir for the coolant (you know, the reservoir located just above this big one), drilled a hole in it and inserted the original motor and wiper fluid lines...
he then relocated that thing to the firewall
I'm not sure if the rules say the reservoir must be able to hold a certain amount of fluid, or that it has to remain stock... but if it's just about 'must have one', than you can easily get it out of the way...
just a .02 pointer for anybody interested
but you CAN remove the wiper fluid reservoir and make a different one...
A friend of mine used my old expension reservoir for the coolant (you know, the reservoir located just above this big one), drilled a hole in it and inserted the original motor and wiper fluid lines...
he then relocated that thing to the firewall
I'm not sure if the rules say the reservoir must be able to hold a certain amount of fluid, or that it has to remain stock... but if it's just about 'must have one', than you can easily get it out of the way...
just a .02 pointer for anybody interested
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Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (azroth)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azroth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Travis,
This is a very good write up, and may save me some time in making my own brake vents. I was planing on using the same "rotor coolers" that you got, only attaching the vents right to the front of the bumper, instead of fabricating and entire air damn. I still may look into doing what BRE did with their "Spook." In the late 60s they bent the rules in the SCCA production classes and added and "brake vent" underneath the front of the car that just so happened to act as front spoiler, which was (not sure if it still is) illegal in C/D production. It was quite a cleaver invention. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, the brake duct vs. "oops, I made a spoiler" is pretty clearly laid out int he GCR now
So far, nobody had mentioned to me that this doesn't follow the letter of the rules, so I'm pretty happy about that. Depending on your car, there are a lot of other options for the bumper ducts. As I think I mentioned before, the 89-91 with the fog light holes is the easiest, but I have seen hoses attached to the flat front of the 88 bumper. Still, when you get under there and really look, you see that you'd have to make a very sharp bend to stay away from everything behind the cover and I think that would hurt flow. Still, it's legal and it's better than nothing. I just decided to do it right and forget about it.
b16a1,
Yea, I went around and around about this to other tech inspectors and the argument is always the same..."it doesn't say you can modify it, move it, or remove it, so don't touch it." All in all, that watter bottle has been a huge pain in the ***, but now that's all behind me
The Raven,
Thanks for the offer, but I barely have time to make these for my own car. If you don't mind waiting 6-12 months for production, we'll talk.
This is a very good write up, and may save me some time in making my own brake vents. I was planing on using the same "rotor coolers" that you got, only attaching the vents right to the front of the bumper, instead of fabricating and entire air damn. I still may look into doing what BRE did with their "Spook." In the late 60s they bent the rules in the SCCA production classes and added and "brake vent" underneath the front of the car that just so happened to act as front spoiler, which was (not sure if it still is) illegal in C/D production. It was quite a cleaver invention. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea, the brake duct vs. "oops, I made a spoiler" is pretty clearly laid out int he GCR now
So far, nobody had mentioned to me that this doesn't follow the letter of the rules, so I'm pretty happy about that. Depending on your car, there are a lot of other options for the bumper ducts. As I think I mentioned before, the 89-91 with the fog light holes is the easiest, but I have seen hoses attached to the flat front of the 88 bumper. Still, when you get under there and really look, you see that you'd have to make a very sharp bend to stay away from everything behind the cover and I think that would hurt flow. Still, it's legal and it's better than nothing. I just decided to do it right and forget about it.b16a1,
Yea, I went around and around about this to other tech inspectors and the argument is always the same..."it doesn't say you can modify it, move it, or remove it, so don't touch it." All in all, that watter bottle has been a huge pain in the ***, but now that's all behind me
The Raven,
Thanks for the offer, but I barely have time to make these for my own car. If you don't mind waiting 6-12 months for production, we'll talk.
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Re: To those of you building your own air dams, splitters, or brake ducts (travis)
Here's a pic of the car (finally) on the ground. Nevermind the missing hardware, I have to pull it right back off to load it on the trailer. Just looking at it, it seems much lower than I expected. However, when you actually take a ruler to the lip it's 5" almost all around except for front/center which is 4.5". I think it just looks low because I'm not used to it yet. I opted not to paint it because it's replacement is already in the works and it's just going to get beat up anyway. Routing the brake hose proved to be more tricky than I had anticipated with the 205/55/14 Kumhos on 14x7s, and I had to bend the wire coil a little to make parts of it more flat. I think I'm going to replace this hose with 2.5" when this gets torn up because I really need the extra room. I would even consider 2", but I'll try the 2.5" first. At full lock, the tire touches the hose against the control arm and there's not a damn thing I can do about it without using narrower tires ( 
) or narrower hose. I just hope it holds up for the weekend and then I'll just move the hose in the car for the air vents.
Anyway, here' tha pics:
) or narrower hose. I just hope it holds up for the weekend and then I'll just move the hose in the car for the air vents.Anyway, here' tha pics:
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Re: (igotcrx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice car!!! can u take some pics of ur cage??!!hehe </TD></TR></TABLE>
Lots of them already posted. e-mail me if you're looking for something specific.
Lots of them already posted. e-mail me if you're looking for something specific.
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From: Gainesville, FL
Re: (travis)
I added the undertray/splitter today. It's not very scientific, but it should be functional. I was amazed at how much stronger the whole piece is with the undertray added. Before it was super floppy once removed from the car since it got most of it's form from being stretched around the bumper. Now is is very sturdy as a stand-alone piece having riveted two floppy pieces together. I designed the splitter around the IT rules more than anything, and the undertray does not interfere with the brake ducting at all (even with the 3" hose which has not been changed yet). Please ignore any sharp edges that may appear in the pics, I have since ground all new cut edges and I will be painting it this week to make it look less like a snow plow. Our next HC event is at the fastest track in AZ, so I figure that will be a good first test day. I'll let you know how it works/doesn't work.
Here are some "almost finished" pics:
Other than paint it, the only thing I plan to change is the fasteners. I would like to get some rivet-in dzus fasteners but I can't find them locally and I want to test fit a few before buying a bunch. I still have enough aluminum from that first sheet to replace the upper and/or lower pieces of the airdam/splitter if it is damaged. Not bad!
Here are some "almost finished" pics:
Other than paint it, the only thing I plan to change is the fasteners. I would like to get some rivet-in dzus fasteners but I can't find them locally and I want to test fit a few before buying a bunch. I still have enough aluminum from that first sheet to replace the upper and/or lower pieces of the airdam/splitter if it is damaged. Not bad!
