Need Help locking crank to remove crank pulley bolt
My timing belt change has come to a halt since comming across the crank pulley bolt. So far, I have tried to remove it by locking the flywheel with a huge screwdriver through the lower clutch cover. I have also used PB blaster on the bolt and have not had success. My question is where have all of you stuck the screwdriver?
And, what other methods have you used to get off the bolt? I'm thinking of resorting to heating it up with a torch.
Also, I do not have access to an impact wrench / air compressor and do not have the special tool that locks the crank pulley. I know these would make my life easier, but I know there are other ways around it. If i can't get it off, i may resort to renting or buying the needed tools.
I have included a link of a picture that I got off hybrid.com. Please disregard the custom lock on the flywheel.
please copy and paste link
http://www.geocities.com/maxspeeds/jpg/flywheel.bmp
And, what other methods have you used to get off the bolt? I'm thinking of resorting to heating it up with a torch.
Also, I do not have access to an impact wrench / air compressor and do not have the special tool that locks the crank pulley. I know these would make my life easier, but I know there are other ways around it. If i can't get it off, i may resort to renting or buying the needed tools.
I have included a link of a picture that I got off hybrid.com. Please disregard the custom lock on the flywheel.
please copy and paste link
http://www.geocities.com/maxspeeds/jpg/flywheel.bmp
with out and impact gun good luck. Even if you had the crank wrench it is hard to take the bolt off. Even when I have a motor out of the car that bolt always gives me trouble. make sure not to bend your flywheel that would just be the capper to your trouble i am sure.
Stick the screwdriver in the flywheel at the rear of the bell housing and throw your weight on the breaker bar. If you're a man, you'll break it free.
I am just looking for confirmation that I am sticking the screwdriver in the right place. I haven't tried all my weight yet because I want verification that the spot I am putting the screwdriver isnt weak.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stick the screwdriver in the flywheel at the rear of the bell housing and throw your weight on the breaker bar. If you're a man, you'll break it free.</TD></TR></TABLE> 
I just removed a 195ft-lb crank bolt from a 'rusty' 1990 Stupra a few days ago...
Just fine a nice spot to put the screwdriver/prybar and wedge it in.

I just removed a 195ft-lb crank bolt from a 'rusty' 1990 Stupra a few days ago...
Just fine a nice spot to put the screwdriver/prybar and wedge it in.
I just had the same delima damn that was ******* a bitch. Ok heres how I did it. crack all lug nuts on front two wheels. jack car up put it on jack stands. Pull front two tires off. put two flat heads in the each disc brakes put the car in fith and then put a breaker bar on the nut with a really long extension. If the breaker bar tries to slide off the nut put the jack at the pivot point on the breaker bar so that it souports it now put the breaker bar at 9 oclock and put your weight into it.
On another not I though I broke the breaker bar or the socket or the extension cause as soon as it broke free I could turn it with my hand. Man that was a pain. I hope I didn't mess up my tranny.
On another not I though I broke the breaker bar or the socket or the extension cause as soon as it broke free I could turn it with my hand. Man that was a pain. I hope I didn't mess up my tranny.
go through a snap-on catalog.........look for a tool looks like a
breaker bar with a chain attached to it.
i forgot what the tool is called but you wrap the chain around the crank pulley.
so that you can get a grip on it and lock in place on the ground. i'm sure snap-on
isn't the only company making it.
breaker bar with a chain attached to it.
i forgot what the tool is called but you wrap the chain around the crank pulley.
so that you can get a grip on it and lock in place on the ground. i'm sure snap-on
isn't the only company making it.
this is what u need http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog
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From: First in Flight, Type Rs of East Coast, NC, FL
I have never had any luck with and impact gun, for that matter the breaker bar method worked but barely, I have done a couple accords and integras. I have broken a couple tools each time haha. Have someone lay on the brakes clutch out in gear, and if you have the access to the flywheel take a 3/8 extension and put it in the flywheel, and hold it while someone is rotating the engine until the extension contacts a solid area of the block. Next put one hand around head of breaker bar with extension, wrap hand in a rag incase the tools break and u have metal shards in ur hand. Then lay into that SOB, and put all ur weight into it. Takes a couple minutes but you should be able to get it.
Sat there with the impact gun on the bolt for 10 min at 100psi... nothing. Pump up the compressor to the max. Had to get it up to 150psi and off she came!!
You just gotta find a good spot to put the screw driver. Then, its all muscle. Breaker bar works best for me, and I use a pipe for more leverage on the breaker bar. Cake.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sat there with the impact gun on the bolt for 10 min at 100psi... nothing. Pump up the compressor to the max. Had to get it up to 150psi and off she came!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, know the feeling, luckily for me we have some big *** 1" impact guns at work
Yeah, know the feeling, luckily for me we have some big *** 1" impact guns at work
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strepto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive had great success with filling cyl 1 and 4 with concrete, let it dry. The crank wont move, and you're good to go!</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sukebei Oni »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i used this tool before, along with 2 breaker bars with 5' pipe extentions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what we used
LOL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sukebei Oni »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i used this tool before, along with 2 breaker bars with 5' pipe extentions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what we used
That tool costs almost $100!!!!!!!!
Another member on this board got a big as nut from the hardware store with the same outer size as the crank pully opening with a large enough inner diameter to get the socket in, then welded a pipe onto the nut. His total cost was $3.
Another member on this board got a big as nut from the hardware store with the same outer size as the crank pully opening with a large enough inner diameter to get the socket in, then welded a pipe onto the nut. His total cost was $3.


