Ive just got round to working on the Lude some more (replacing cradle) and Im absolutly stuck;
...as is the nuts!

I've used a centre punch to bend-out the securing notch that was pressed into it and still cannot remove it.

*Is there any other securing method on the nut?

Ive used a very long and large spanner and was not able to break the nut, I was given a Makita elctric 110v with power pack impact wrench (I didnt think it was powerful enough either!) and that couldnt get either one of them loose.

*It is a reverse thread on the left hand drive shaft isnt it! (? hope it is)

Does anyone who has taken them off before know of any other anti-release mechanism built onto the nuts? I think my only other options are to either borrow air-impact wrench and kit or use oxycetaline welding torch to heat the nut then crack it while its expanded from the heat; Im not too keen on thatoption but i know with the welding kit I can put a centralised spot of heat around the nut, Im just worried about melting the grease behind and experiencing 'technicalities'.
Anyone had any experience of having to use heat to take of this -critical- nut?
any <u>tried and tested</u> advice is appreciated;

Though I did Clean-up the grooved rotors I got with the cradle (look awsome) and I spent just over an hour with h/d paper towels and Klampto oil removing synthetic towels cleaning the cradle up, looking v.good now!

PS: I do keep on feeding these 2x front nuts with penetrating realeaseagent. Damn things seem solid!

Cheers in advance!

 

you asking how to take off the nuts on the end of the drive shafts???
No not reverse threaded.... Can't think of any that are on a car right now anyway...

They are very easy to remove if those are the nuts your trying to remove.
Take off the wheel... Pop out the center plug. Put the wheel back on. Put the car on the ground. Take a nice long breaker bar. place the bar to the Right side of the wheel if your looking at it. Now hold the bar with your hands and lift with your legs. It will break free in about 2 seconds max...

 

They are stuck solid. I thought the left side may be reverse threaded, though both sides are absolutly unmovable!

I have a proper stand theat hold the hub in place agains the floor (cars on axle stands)
to stop hub turning but it is absolutly solid!

 

Did you try lifting up instead of pushing down? You can get a lot more power that way...

 

I would Sephro did. That's the way I do it, and it's worked for me every time. Once you unstake the nut, it's only torque that is holding the nut on.

I have a 3 foot 3/4" drive Snap On breaker bar that I use with a 36mm socket. I find that the 1/2" drive stuff flexes way too much when applying this much torque.

I usually don't lift up though. I found that if I lift up, it's sometimes enough to lift the tire sufficiently that it will slip on the concrete. What I usually do after taking the center cap out, and setting the tire back on the ground is put the breaker bar on the nut, use a jackstand to support the extension on the socket, and then press down with my weight. It usually doesn't take much more than that. I'd imagine it's 400 to 600 lb*ft of torque to break that driveshaft nut loose.

 

thats a good point thanks ill go down tnight after work and try it. I might just camp out over there and stay until Ive sorted it. But I will try pulling it up instead

 

any of you guys know how to post imagestation individual pics onto posts?

 

Ive never seen a 1/2" socket 36mm or above, here theyre all 3/4" square for that size up!

 

two words... Breaker bar.

 

[q]Ive used a very long and large spanner and was not able to break the nut[/q]

It is about 50-60cm long

 

my '93 legend was that way...i applied a little heat with a small hand held torch and it broke right loose with a 18" breaker bar.

 

This is where air tools can be your friend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive never seen a 1/2" socket 36mm or above, here theyre all 3/4" square for that size up!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sears sells one that size that is 1/2" drive, but I don't know if you have a Sears where you're at.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...48000

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fly1865 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is where air tools can be your friend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have a big impact with an equally big compressor that can run it. I wouldn't be surprised to see that it takes over 400 lb*ft of torque to break the nut free.

 

Im trying using breaker and 'lifting' it instead then if that doesnt work I pull a favour and borrow a quality Impact wrench setup.
Then all all the above fails is Oxycetaline torch from welding kit, this way I can apply a large blast of heat to the nut and break it before ithe heat dissipates through conduction into the bearings etc.

 

For the 36mm socket, you might try an auto parts store. The sell them as axle nuts, and the one I got was for a 1/2" driver also. I got mine at Pep Boys... but try any auto parts store near you.

Also, I think the best option is the breaker bar, which a long *** steal pipe. Just put the breaker bar on the nut, and slip the pipe over the end of the breaker bar. I used one about 5ft long, that thing popped right off

 

Uh guys, you do see that he is across the pond. right? I don't think there are that many pep boys or Sears stores in England right?

Anyway if you have the Breaker bar and the socket, I'd recommend just getting a friend to mash on the brakes and get a 5 foot iron water pipe cheater. When all else fails get a longer lever. Something's got to give and chances are it is not going to be the axle/nut. If half inch won't work go to .75. Just buy quality tools and replace them if they break. Or just borrow an impact wrench. I used the bigass lever method on mine, took about 500ft/lbs to loosen it.

 

i know this is an old thread but the best way i found was to use a jack and a breaker bar. Put the bar on the axle nut, rest the end of the handle on a jack and then jack up the breaker bar. The weight of the car in combination with jack jacking up will break that **** loose for sure. I had tried all the other ways but this i found was the best and easiest.

 

I ended p just getting a bigger breaker bar and it came straight off, was just a little* tight.

*=Extremly Tight!