Fuel cell in a DC2 questions
Building a car and want to delete the stock fuel tank and add an aftermarket fuel cell. Mainly a street car, but possibly auto-cross. The specs on the car are below. any help is appreciated. Tell me your lessons learned or experiences.
What I'm looking for is info on fuel pumps, cells, and sending units. Is it possible to make the level gauge on the cluster work?
Motor:
B20/P73
T3/T4 turbo
AEM fuel rail
AEM FPR
other goodies
Car:
99 GSR converted to RHD with JDM ITR clip. Inside will consist of a 4-point cage, two seats, harnesses, and a dash so the trunk will be completely empty. While the car is being swapped to RHD, I could possibly cut the trunk out between the uni-body rails and rebuild it with aluminum and weld in a cell.
Let me know thoughts and opinions. Thanks
What I'm looking for is info on fuel pumps, cells, and sending units. Is it possible to make the level gauge on the cluster work?
Motor:
B20/P73
T3/T4 turbo
AEM fuel rail
AEM FPR
other goodies
Car:
99 GSR converted to RHD with JDM ITR clip. Inside will consist of a 4-point cage, two seats, harnesses, and a dash so the trunk will be completely empty. While the car is being swapped to RHD, I could possibly cut the trunk out between the uni-body rails and rebuild it with aluminum and weld in a cell.
Let me know thoughts and opinions. Thanks
Here’s what learned:
Mainly street, some autoX, so a non-regulation cell will be ok. Most sanctions will require the fuel compartment to be separate from driver’s cabin. So either a bladdered fuel cell (bladder counts as the cell and outer cover counts as seperator), or build a cover over it (usually aluminum tin work)
Regulation cells cost 600+, non regulation for about 200+ (w/ sending units)
Sending unit issue: the ohms resistance of the sending unit will differ from your dash gage (usually set up for domestics), so you will need to get the specs for both, and add resisters to make sending unit’s ohms match the cars req’ts.
Fuel pumps range from 300+ depending on your cars requirements.
You will hate Earl’s by the time your done. Steel braided lines and fittings will cost you 350+, unless you use your stock lines, or rubber lines.
Mounting the cell requires some imagination, and is labor intensive. The lower the better for better cg.
Some cells don’t have baffles in it, so even if you have 3 gallons, the g’s will cause the pump to starve, which can then cause you motor to bogg, under hard turns or braking.
So it’s all up to what you want and mostly how much you want to spend.
Especially because you're mostly going to use it for street, you're not restricted to any requirements. BTW, I don't think cells are DOT approved.
Mainly street, some autoX, so a non-regulation cell will be ok. Most sanctions will require the fuel compartment to be separate from driver’s cabin. So either a bladdered fuel cell (bladder counts as the cell and outer cover counts as seperator), or build a cover over it (usually aluminum tin work)
Regulation cells cost 600+, non regulation for about 200+ (w/ sending units)
Sending unit issue: the ohms resistance of the sending unit will differ from your dash gage (usually set up for domestics), so you will need to get the specs for both, and add resisters to make sending unit’s ohms match the cars req’ts.
Fuel pumps range from 300+ depending on your cars requirements.
You will hate Earl’s by the time your done. Steel braided lines and fittings will cost you 350+, unless you use your stock lines, or rubber lines.
Mounting the cell requires some imagination, and is labor intensive. The lower the better for better cg.
Some cells don’t have baffles in it, so even if you have 3 gallons, the g’s will cause the pump to starve, which can then cause you motor to bogg, under hard turns or braking.
So it’s all up to what you want and mostly how much you want to spend.
Especially because you're mostly going to use it for street, you're not restricted to any requirements. BTW, I don't think cells are DOT approved.
Wow, that's all lot of info. I'm working with an old hot rodder on this. He's the one that's clipping the car. He's not electronically inclined, but the rest of it I think he can handle as far as the cells, lines, and pumps. I wasn't sure on how to make the sending unit work. Thanks for the input...
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Myh4tch
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Oct 13, 2003 05:29 PM




