Bleeding brakes (bet you haven't seen one of these threads lately :p)
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Houston, TX, USA
Bleeding brakes (bet you haven't seen one of these threads lately :p)
I'm going to be flushing out my old brake fluid for all 4 corners the regular way (2 man):
I've done a search, and I think I've got it all down:
1. Put a block of wood or something under brake pedal so pedal pusher doesn't floor it by accident.
2. Use a turkey baster to stir and suck out the old nasty fluid from the reservoir. Refill it with fresh fluid and repeat until no more sediment is coming out.
3. Connect hose to bleeder screw and submerge it in 1-2 inches of fluid in a bottle.
4. Only push pedal 5/8-3/4 of the way down after pumping
5. Leave the MC reservoir cap OFF during the entire process? Can't I just leave it on?
6. Use brake cleaner to clean off the bleeder screw after I'm done.
Does this all sound good? I'm going to start from LF and go counter-clockwise, and will pretty much follow this how-to:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/...e.htm
I've done a search, and I think I've got it all down:
1. Put a block of wood or something under brake pedal so pedal pusher doesn't floor it by accident.
2. Use a turkey baster to stir and suck out the old nasty fluid from the reservoir. Refill it with fresh fluid and repeat until no more sediment is coming out.
3. Connect hose to bleeder screw and submerge it in 1-2 inches of fluid in a bottle.
4. Only push pedal 5/8-3/4 of the way down after pumping
5. Leave the MC reservoir cap OFF during the entire process? Can't I just leave it on?
6. Use brake cleaner to clean off the bleeder screw after I'm done.
Does this all sound good? I'm going to start from LF and go counter-clockwise, and will pretty much follow this how-to:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/...e.htm
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Gainesville, FL
Re: Bleeding brakes (LX4CYL)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LX4CYL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. Use a turkey baster to stir and suck out the old nasty fluid from the reservoir. Refill it with fresh fluid and repeat until no more sediment is coming out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you reall want all of the sediment out, you can remove that little filter in the MC reservoir and pour some brake fluid backward through it. I usually don't bother to do this, but I flush my system frequently enough that I don't get anything but bubbles in it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
5. Leave the MC reservoir cap OFF during the entire process? Can't I just leave it on?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You take it off because you frequently will have to add more fluid during the bleed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to start from LF and go counter-clockwise</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure about your car, but the proper sequence on the Civic/CRX is DF, PR, PF, DR.
2. Use a turkey baster to stir and suck out the old nasty fluid from the reservoir. Refill it with fresh fluid and repeat until no more sediment is coming out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you reall want all of the sediment out, you can remove that little filter in the MC reservoir and pour some brake fluid backward through it. I usually don't bother to do this, but I flush my system frequently enough that I don't get anything but bubbles in it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
5. Leave the MC reservoir cap OFF during the entire process? Can't I just leave it on?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You take it off because you frequently will have to add more fluid during the bleed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to start from LF and go counter-clockwise</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure about your car, but the proper sequence on the Civic/CRX is DF, PR, PF, DR.
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: Bleeding brakes (LX4CYL)
Helps to put a loop in the vacuum t00b, secure (not crimp) w/ hose clamp or zip tie. Make sure t00b is pointed "up" to get air out. Helps to tap caliper w/ mallet too.
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From: Only those who dare to lose, win.
Re: Bleeding brakes (LX4CYL)
Only suggestion I would have is to sop up the fluid already in the reservoir with a lot of paper towels. Reason being is I'm partial to eating turkey and don't believe it's necessary to sacrifice a good turkey baster for this task (i.e., I wouldn't return the turkey baster back to the kitchen for use, even after washing). 
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: NOVA, VA, Always on Travel
Re: Bleeding brakes (Neo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does this all sound good? I'm going to start from LF and go counter-clockwise, and will pretty much follow this how-to</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Honda shop manuals for civics say driver rear,passenger front,passenger rear,driver front in that order.
The Honda shop manuals for civics say driver rear,passenger front,passenger rear,driver front in that order.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 8,136
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From: kuidaore
Re: Bleeding brakes (LX4CYL)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LX4CYL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to be flushing out my old brake fluid for all 4 corners the regular way (2 man):
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Make sure that the 2 man team are synchronized and communicate well. IE bleeder man says DOWN, pedal man puts moderate pressure on the pedal and doesn't let up while the bleeder man opens the screw and bleeds the fluid until the bleeder man closes the screw and says UP. The pedal man can Not let up on pressure even if he gets to the bottom, he must hold the pedal down till the bleeder man closes the screw for obvious reasons.
Another tip is the pedal man to Not use every ounce of his strength to push the pedal. Even moderate force is what you want, No ramming the pedal home. Obviously there will be pressure when the screw is closed but as the screw is opened the force should remain constant. You don't want to have to get a new booster as well.
It's not a hard process at all but easy to F*ck up for certain.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Make sure that the 2 man team are synchronized and communicate well. IE bleeder man says DOWN, pedal man puts moderate pressure on the pedal and doesn't let up while the bleeder man opens the screw and bleeds the fluid until the bleeder man closes the screw and says UP. The pedal man can Not let up on pressure even if he gets to the bottom, he must hold the pedal down till the bleeder man closes the screw for obvious reasons.
Another tip is the pedal man to Not use every ounce of his strength to push the pedal. Even moderate force is what you want, No ramming the pedal home. Obviously there will be pressure when the screw is closed but as the screw is opened the force should remain constant. You don't want to have to get a new booster as well.
It's not a hard process at all but easy to F*ck up for certain.
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From: Gainesville, FL
Re: Bleeding brakes (Littleton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Littleton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The Honda shop manuals for civics say driver rear,passenger front,passenger rear,driver front in that order.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm, so the Civics are different? I would have thought that the CRX and Civic had the same order.
The Honda shop manuals for civics say driver rear,passenger front,passenger rear,driver front in that order.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm, so the Civics are different? I would have thought that the CRX and Civic had the same order.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 667
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From: Houston, TX, USA
Re: Bleeding brakes (Littleton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Littleton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The Honda shop manuals for civics say driver rear,passenger front,passenger rear,driver front in that order.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hmmm, so the Civics are different? I would have thought that the CRX and Civic had the same order.</TD></TR></TABLE>
People have told me that the Helms for 98-02 Accords says LF,RF,RR,LR. If you do a search you'll find threads explaining that the bleed order doesn't matter...
The Honda shop manuals for civics say driver rear,passenger front,passenger rear,driver front in that order.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hmmm, so the Civics are different? I would have thought that the CRX and Civic had the same order.</TD></TR></TABLE>
People have told me that the Helms for 98-02 Accords says LF,RF,RR,LR. If you do a search you'll find threads explaining that the bleed order doesn't matter...
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Pleasanton, Ca
Re: Bleeding brakes (LX4CYL)
From working on car myself, I have found there is reason no you HAVE to go in any order. If there is fluid in the system already/just flushing the system, you don't have to worry about what order you need to go it.
Personally every car I have worked on (and that is a lot) I bleed the brakes in this order: I go to the longest line (usually the right rear) and then work my way to the shortest line.
Personally every car I have worked on (and that is a lot) I bleed the brakes in this order: I go to the longest line (usually the right rear) and then work my way to the shortest line.
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