Here is an example of Our Spec Miata. This is Number 23 in the last 2 seasons. It is far from being completed. It is assembled using the GCR and SM rules, with no deviations. It is of simple design with proper gussets and will fit a large driver like myself (John G and Jeremy know what I am talking about) with ample room, I will be honest, a little snug, but drivable. All tubing is of course DOM 1.5"x.095". Approx. 60', should weigh in around 90lbs. I will post more pics though out completion.

Check out pictures below!!





Modified by CagedRuss at 5:04 PM 1/13/2004

 

Pics not working . . . try hosting at we-todd-did-racing.com

 

Here you go Russ.....

 

WOW! Awesome work there Russ! Truely a piece of art! Get that welder hot...i smell a ton of business heading your way!

 

Just curious, Russ... do you guys modify the trans tunnel to get the seat installed? Seems like the seat would have to be too far forward otherwise. We're building a couple cars right now with a very similar cage design, and fitting the seat is a real nightmare for me - (I'm 6'3" tall.) Driver comfort, and the proper seating position is so key to good performance - I want the seat as far back as possible, and the main hoop really interferes with it.

What type of seats do you use? Do you modify the trans tunnel?

In an unrelated question, do you remove the stock dash bar and run yours in the same position? Is it legal to then bolt the steering column to the new bar? I'm getting very conflicted opinions on this one. Seems to me the best design would be to cut out the old bar, run the new one right where the old one was and then weld the column mounting plate right to the cage. Does that count as another mounting point for the cage? FWIW, there are cars out there built this way. What's your take?

Thanks for sharing the pictures, interesting seeing how others are doing it!

 

I do not modify the floor, We are using a Sparco Evo in this car for the customer. He is only 6' tall. I use a USRP Aluminum road race seat, bolt it to MOMO sliders, remove the 2 nubs the factory seat rails used to bolt, plate the area with a 6"x6"x.125" plate for the seat to bolt to. I can get the seat all the way back to the bulkhead, only real problem with composite seats is the head room. Much more room with the aluminum seat. If you do not need to adjust the seat, just bolt it directly to the plates.

I have not run into any problems with using actual tubing for a dash bar instead of the exhaust tubing the factory used. I strip the dash of its layers and piece it back in. Add the new bar, allow enough room for heater box removal and dash pod and speedo cable. Once the dash pad is on, you can't see the bar anyway. I remove the factory mounting plate off the original bar and adapt it to the new one. Measure from 2 spots to center the column to original location and you are done.

Most of my previous cages, I ran the A-pillar bars through the dash vents. Nobody yet seems to mind the dash will never come out. I leave it up the Customers how they want there cars, with or with out. I will post some more pics in the next few days to show the dash.

I only had to modify the tunnel one time, that is when the customer bought 2 OMP carbon fiber seats that were side mounted. Way to much work!

 

I decided to change out the muffler tube for a Roll Cage material. I really wanted to keep it straight, but I could not because of the heater box. Tried to keep all of dash intact as per GCR for SS and SM. The new tube is more substantial and has only 2 minor bends than the original bar. I removed the bracket of cross tube and attached it to the new tube so the steering column can be in the original position.

I trimmed the dash to fit around the A-pillar bars and re-attached all the dash hardware. I gained a little more room for the driver getting in and getting out, plus The bars fit the profile of the a\pillars better and allows little more room for the driver getting in and out of the car. The dash can easily be pulled out for any mechanical work.

I will finish the door bars and the rear supports tomorrow.


Modified by CagedRuss at 8:56 AM 1/12/2004

 

Russ,

Please check your PM, I sent you one regarding a tire rack for my trailer. TIA!

Nash

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason Saini &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious, Russ... do you guys modify the trans tunnel to get the seat installed? Seems like the seat would have to be too far forward otherwise. We're building a couple cars right now with a very similar cage design, and fitting the seat is a real nightmare for me - (I'm 6'3" tall.) Driver comfort, and the proper seating position is so key to good performance - I want the seat as far back as possible, and the main hoop really interferes with it.

What type of seats do you use? Do you modify the trans tunnel?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Jason-

being 6'3'' 220lbs, i may be of some help here. it was quite the struggle to get my large frame to fit in such a small car. i won't say it's the most comfortable thing in the world, but as stated, it's "driveable." i used the Ultra-Shield Spec Miata seat (size 17 iirc), which is aluminum and used no sliders. there are two hump type things that the stock seat is mounted on, i cut them out. now you have a "flat," floor to work with. since my fat *** had to have a fat seat, the transmission tunnel did need some modification. and by modification, i mean bang the f out of it with a hammer till the seat fits. you'll have to get creative with you're mounting techniques, just make sure to use proper hardware.

hope that helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CagedRuss &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I decided to change out the muffler tube for a Roll Cage material. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you may want to check the legality of that one ,we were told it must stay in place.

 

I like that Alfa in front. Nice work on the cage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you may want to check the legality of that one ,we were told it must stay in place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll agreee with you on that one, we get pretty radical under the dash of a Miata, but we don't go that far. How many points of attachment does that give you?

 

Still 8, dash bar is attached to the uprights, Nothing in the GCR or SM rules that says we can't. I have 5 cars already done that compete in regionals and Pros. Bar is part of the cage. All other dash parts go in including vents, heater box, etc!

Actually, GCR in Show Room Stock recommends 1 horizontal bar mounted between the a-pillar uprights in the dash area.

SM rules:
Interior
1. The driverÂ’s seat may be replaced with any seat suitable for competition,
including a racing-type bucket seat. If the driverÂ’s seat is replaced, factory
seat tracks and/or floor area may be modified, reinforced or removed to
facilitate replacement mountings provided they perform no other function.
Refer to seat specs for I.T.
2. Gauges and instruments may be added, replaced or removed. They may
be installed in the original instrument(s) location using a mounting plate(s)
or any other location using a secure method of attachment. Other than
modifications made to mount instruments and provide for roll cage
installation, the remainder of the dash “board” or panel shall remain intact.
3. Any steering wheel and attachments may be used except wood rimmed
type steering wheels.
4. Any shift **** may be used.
5. A/C system may be removed (but not heater core or blower).

Since all of the original dash is intact, should be fine.

Above is a pic from the side view of the rear support bars, they are at 40 degrees.

Picture above shows how far back the rear supports actually go. The pad is attached to the unibody frame above the rear of the cross member.

Here is a shot of the rear supports, a-pillar/roof bars and main hoop junction. We really try to keep the tubes in compression with each other to maximize strength.

I should have it finished tomorrow, still waiting for the seat to show up so I can place the horizontal bar. We'll see!




Modified by CagedRuss at 9:05 PM 1/12/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CagedRuss &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Here is a shot of the rear supports, a-pillar/roof bars and main hoop junction. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are any of those joints getting gussets ?

just curious...

 

I leave the gussets up to the customer, either tubular or sheet metal type. He is still thinking about it. I also do them last!

 

Here is the driver's door bars fitted into place befor final weld. Utilizing Nascar Style Door Bars, which is a Standard Item in all of our Cages. Uprights will be checked for square befor final welding.

Here is a top view of the door bars. You can see the advantage of using this style of bars, gives driver more room in the cockpit area and also allows more crush zone during a side impact.

Next shot is the door bars attached to the main hoop. You can see how we only use 2 bends total in the construction of each door bar. By leaving the main hoop where we attached it the floor, we do not have to use a "Negative Bend" towards the driver to attach the bar to the main hoop. I feel that having the 3 bend in the door facing the driver's seat allows a chance for the bars to bend inward during a heavy side impact.

 

Got to give props. Looks very good.

 

Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CagedRuss &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great pic!

 

Man, what a day! 9 solicitation sales call this morning alone, long distance 4 cents a minute, 3.9 cents per. We can save you hundreds on tool purchases!. You have been pre-approved for a Business loan! I even have "Solicitation call block", Phone company says, "Sorry!"

Nuff said, I will quit my bitch'n. I added this pic of the top bar. Really trying to get the damn thing done, but all these stupid phone, opps, back to what I was doing!

Hope your day is going better!

 

Arent those plates that your b pillar downtube attaches to violating the 100sqr inches per mounting point rule?

 

Plates are 12"x 6", rule is 100 square 10"x10" or 1 side no larger than 12", no less than 2". Gusset on bar is legal, attached to plate.