i can't figure this one out.... i just swapped a motor into my 99 civic ex. i was using a generic clutch line and when i went to press the pedal it had no resistance. i checked the fluid level and it was empty...... so i put fluid in the reservoir and pumped the clutch..... a little more resistance this time, but a whole lot of leaking from the clutch line...... so i get the oem line from honda and drop it in with thread locker. now when i pump it there is still minimal resistance but there is no leaking and the fluid level is not dropping..... can i get some help with this one? i need to get my car running. it's been down too long. thanks in advance.

 

did you bleed the clutch, its just like brakes - one pumper and one to bleed.
do this with vacuum line attached to clutch slave with other end submerged in brake fluid, remember never to let clutch resevoir go empty while bleeding.

 

i have not bled it..... ill try that right now.

 

just bleed the hell outta it, since brake fluid is cheap i usually refill the reservoir up like 3-4 times just to be safe,

 

same thing happened to me one time. needed bleeding

 

no need to keep refilling the resevoir, you CANNOT let it go empty during bleeding, air gets right back in there. let me know if you want clear details on the procedure. let me know how you make out. also just being cautious - do not use opened container of brake fluid, try and buy fluid in a metal can rather than plastic, also do not overkill by purchasiung DOT 5, use 3 or 4 max. you only need quart at most to fill and flush while keeping bleed hose submerged.

 

you just said two different things. 1st you said that you don't need to refill the resvoir then you said to make sure you don't let it go empty and use a quart. I think your gonna have to refill it to use a quart just given ya a hard time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublejz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you just said two different things. 1st you said that you don't need to refill the resvoir then you said to make sure you don't let it go empty and use a quart. I think your gonna have to refill it to use a quart just given ya a hard time</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks now I feel obligated to esplain you in gooder engrish: the idea is just to not flush the system and allow air in by letting the fluid in the resevoir go empty, after every bleed sequence Ie pump pedal release pressure in the slave then top off the resevoir.

Double JZ now I am watching your posts - kidding i could make snowwomen instead and have the city put shirts and pants on them again, i made one like jenna!

 

i bled it as per the instructions in my haynes manual and it worked okay.... got some pressure back but it still felt soft. i then bled it according to salbaje's procedure.... this worked better, but i still feel the pressure is at about 85% and not full......

what is the importance of using brake fluid from a steel can and not a plastic one? also, what happens if you use old fluid? the fluid in my system seems kind of dirty.... is there a way to clean it out? should i even bother? thanks for the help guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team 4R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i bled it as per the instructions in my haynes manual and it worked okay.... got some pressure back but it still felt soft. i then bled it according to salbaje's procedure.... this worked better, but i still feel the pressure is at about 85% and not full......

what is the importance of using brake fluid from a steel can and not a plastic one? also, what happens if you use old fluid? the fluid in my system seems kind of dirty.... is there a way to clean it out? should i even bother? thanks for the help guys. </TD></TR></TABLE>
brake fluid is a hydraulic fluid that is adversely affected by air, it loses its ability to compress. steel tin vs. plastic is just a safeguard to avoid contamination and to giveabtter air seal. if its dirty just bleed it more remembering to top up the resevoir.

 

at the shop i work for if the lines are VERY dirty we would take out all the fuild we can (we use minty vac) and pour Absolut Alcohol (not the drink, but just plain alcohol) and run it trough the lines, and then we bleed the hell out of it with brake fluid.....

 

its gonna be really tough to get that pedal feel back to 100% if you've let the reservoir get down to zero.

If you have, I suggest you make some time, and pull the master cylinder and bench bleed it. You won't be able to get all of the air out unless you are able to bleed all of the ports at the same time with very short lines.

good luck

 

woops, thought he said brake... anyhoo, same thing but only 1 port, and it doesn't necessarily need to be done out of the car but that helps.

 

.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iplaybass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">woops, thought he said brake... anyhoo, same thing but only 1 port, and it doesn't necessarily need to be done out of the car but that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

clutch , brake dont worry about it. i mix em up all the time, I rented a car in london, shifting was relearnt with my left hand in a few minutes. get back home a week later and i mixed up my feet on the pedals somehow.

 

hehe

 

I know that brake fluid is hydroscopic so leaving an unsealed bottle lying around for a long time it will more likely than not pick up water from the air. I would have concerns with a metal can though, because if stored in a garage in a cold climate the metal may get condensation.

Just a thought, but maybe I haven't thought it all the way through. Someone care to elaborate or clash thoughts?

And like the other guys said its the whole air in the system problem. I've got the same problem with my brothers Corolla but I think the master cylinder might just be out. Sucks in air at some point. As long as the pedal doesn't lose it's firmness after bleeding I think air trapped inside is the only situation.

 

Here's a funny story for ya...once I was bleeding my clutch with my girlfriend and after like an hour there was still no pressure in the pedal, and it was still sucking down the brake fluid. So I checked all the bolts on the master cylinder and took out the slave cylinder and made sure it wasn't leaking and reinstalled it and we bled the system again and it still wouldn't pressurize. So I just said **** it and started to drink, and while I did that my girlfriend (who has never worked on cars, and drives a FORD TRUCK!!!) discovered I hadn't tightened the hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder enough, and it WAS ******* LEAKING THE WHOLE TIME GODDAMNIT! That still pisses me off ...I had to leave her after that...well, that's not true but I wanted to after the harsh taunting

Lesson:Check EVERYTHING for leaks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomservo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a funny story for ya...once I was bleeding my clutch with my girlfriend and after like an hour there was still no pressure in the pedal, and it was still sucking down the brake fluid. So I checked all the bolts on the master cylinder and took out the slave cylinder and made sure it wasn't leaking and reinstalled it and we bled the system again and it still wouldn't pressurize. So I just said **** it and started to drink, and while I did that my girlfriend (who has never worked on cars, and drives a FORD TRUCK!!!) discovered I hadn't tightened the hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder enough, and it WAS ******* LEAKING THE WHOLE TIME GODDAMNIT! That still pisses me off ...I had to leave her after that...well, that's not true but I wanted to after the harsh taunting

Lesson:Check EVERYTHING for leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LoL at your post and at your sig.