Master systems. Which did you buy and why? Anyone know a good place to pick them up?

 

I was told from a guy that autocrosses that prothene bushings are a little bit harder and don't give as much lee-way as the energy sus. bushings. The energy sus. bushing are better for street use. I got energy sus. endlinks for my front sway bar at honda village performance shop in Gbg, pa. I put them on my 92' integra and noticed a difference in the handling, braking, and overall performance which was needed badly because of the soft sus. on 2nd gen Integras.

 

Prothane has a lifetime warranty . ES has a 2 yr warranty .

 

I got the ES master kit. Why? It was recommended by someone who knows suspension applications/parts like the back of his hand....

 

I think I'm going to go with the ES its a bit cheaper too isn't it?

 

I paid 192 for mine.

 

how about Hyperflex...i was just browsing Ebay and say them going for around $50 for a master kit.

 

i'm so stupid i forgot that Energy Suspension makes hyperflex.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skelly ed6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got the ES master kit. Why? It was recommended by someone who knows suspension applications/parts like the back of his hand....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting, that same guy told me to stay away from the ES master kit and do something totally different, which I did. When finished it will be a combo of Mugen and Prothane in the rear and have all fresh OEM in the front. I took it on faith based on the experience of a large number of CRX racers, so we'll see how it works out.

 

I wanted to go with the mugen bushings but then found out that its hard as **** to get them for 91 CRX's. King doesnt carry them nor can they get them and they have no idea where I would be able to get them, So I am going with the ES kit since they are softer than the Prothane ones and plus I did get the complete hyperflex kit for like $60 or so shipped. However for the trailing arm bushings I am going to go with the Mugen ones since I can get those for mine I will see how the ES ones work out if I dont like them I will probably go back to new OEM ones or maybe try out the prothane??

 

Either the Prothane or ES rear kits are a great investment. We used the ES pieces for the trailing arms, LCAs and both sway bars. Others to follow will be the radius rods and compensator arms in back. Some have the Mugen parts for the Big donuts and others (like me) did the ES and still others do the Prothane because thier stuff is press out-press in.

Suppliers: Check with Ultra Performance, Summit and Dennis at Village Performance. I deal with all 3 and each has a niche on the race car &lt;G&gt;.

 

Here are the exact words that I was told:

I would recommend ES over Prothane......the durometer of Prothane is too hard...plus their bushings are not impregnated with graphite like ES black...

dun get GAY COLORS.....ES BLACK ONLY.... you dont listen....you will be gayed like ****

 

yeah man **** is gay....

I'll check e-bay for a ES master black

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Suppliers: Check with Ultra Performance, Summit and Dennis at Village Performance. I deal with all 3 and each has a niche on the race car &lt;G&gt;. </TD></TR></TABLE>

anyone on HT?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some have the Mugen parts for the Big donuts and others (like me) did the ES and still others do the Prothane because thier stuff is press out-press in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually the Mugen ones are also press out press in as well not just the Prothane ones.

 

So far I have the Prothane pieces installed in the front for the upper & lower control arms, as well as the radius rod bushings; and for the LCAs in the rear.
No squeaks so far, even through the winter. We'll see what happens in another year or two.
A friend of mine has the ES kit, and it squeaks when it gets cold (even if it is graphite impregnated).
I didn't notice any increase in ride harshness after the install. The car is for daily driving & auto-X.

 

lots of squeeks would suck...
but I could live with it. Has anyone else noticed their ES squeeks lots too?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lots of squeeks would suck...
but I could live with it. Has anyone else noticed their ES squeeks lots too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

mine did, only the lower fronts, just put some of that honda lube on em'. they'll shut up.

 

what would you guys use for the motor mounts? i think i had some ES they were red..and they were stiff as heck..made my whole car vibrate..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crashtest Sonny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would you guys use for the motor mounts? i think i had some ES they were red..and they were stiff as heck..made my whole car vibrate.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what motor mounts do. You can either have soft ones that provide a comfortable ride or you can have more rigid mounts that don't absorb energy but make for a rough ride. There's no way to keep the motor from rocking without transfering some of that energy to the chassis.

 

i found some black ES ones on ebay.. how are those?

 

The black ones aren't as good as the red ones, you gotta have that ricer flash......

Just kidding, red and black ar the same.

 

I heard red are stiffer. I have the black, and they are great. I wouldnt reccomend using the ball joints, and tie rod joints. They are poor quality, and CAN cause more damage than benifit. Just replace these with stock parts. My car feels much more true when driving now. I am quite satisfied. It dosent squeek either, just lube the hell out of them during install. Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skelly ed6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here are the exact words that I was told:

I would recommend ES over Prothane......the durometer of Prothane is too hard...plus their bushings are not impregnated with graphite like ES black...

dun get GAY COLORS.....ES BLACK ONLY.... you dont listen....you will be gayed like ****
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm, too bad graphite is not solid and has no place in a bushing. The prothane are superior by design because they are only two peice and they do not use any graphite. The whole point of upgrading to the poly bushings is to remove the flex that is in the stock units and to make the pin the pivot point of the suspension to allow your shocks and springs to react quickly and function witout any binding. If you do maintenance on your car, they won't squeak. I've had mine on my daily driver for two years now with only a squeaking issue in the trailing arm bushing, which was my fault for not using any anti seize compound (and I don't care enough to fix it). As I've said before, given the age of our cars any kit will be an upgrade. If you'd really like to retain that soggy feeling over a firm prothane bushing, go stock, you'll be much happier.

 

the prothene ones are much stiffer arn't they? Can I use a vice to press them in?