Ok, I'm almost pretty damn sure my motor doesn't have a vacuum leak or exhaust leak like I thought. It's the ******* timing belt. I thought I had that ****** 100% TDC but it might've been the way I installed the cams.

So I have to do something with the timing. However, I'm not quite sure how to adjust it. Wether the timing is too far Advanced or too far retard. It's like ONE tooth off.

There is a slight chatter of metal (valves) and the revs will fluctuate from 1K - 2K up and down even when the car is warm all the time.


Do I just totally need to reposition the timing belt or what? Does the crank pulley need to come off? Help is greatly apreciated.

 

What motor?

I think if you redo everything at TDC again you should fix the problem, dont drive it even if your 1 tooth off that could blow your motor. And no the crank pully does not need to come off, just take the belt off from the cam gears, line everything up, put back on. Good luck

 

so put it at what apears TDC on the crank pulley, cam gears, and tensioner. Loosen tensioner, then reseat the belt?

What stumps me is that I had the cams positions what apeared to be pefect and locked in place with 5mm punches through the cam holder holes. They were marked with white out on the gears and on the belt. Then lined up perfectly when I put it all back together.

But I know it's the Timing belt. There isn't anything else it could be. I've canceled out all posibilities of vacuum leaks and the exhaust leaks.

 

Don't even need to loosen the tensioner.

Once the cam caps are off, you can lift the cams off from the distributor side, this removes the tension on the belt which allows you to set the crank pulley to TDC, then re-install cams to TDC.

G'luck.

 

Dont forget to Line everything up with the markings, not your eye. Some people would think if the arrows are straight up then it would be TDC for the cams when its not.

But try to reset the belt and see if that works, i would do it with loosening the tensioner cause thats the way i know how but whatever works for you better do it that way.

 

Man

something last night went horribly wrong.

I think it was an install error when I was tightening down the cam caps or something, but this is a ******* mess now.




The belt is ate up. The cams seem fine but I'm not sure how it happend.

I really dont know wha to do know.

 

Buy a new belt and hope to god you didnt **** anything up with that thing. Also be very glad that **** didnt snap on you.

 

! dont have so many next time!!!

 

That's a new one I haven't seen yet.

Maybe you got something rubbing up against the belt in the lower cover area. Possibly a thrust washer reversed?

 

damn you're lucky you caught that in time. get a new belt and redo it! good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's a new one I haven't seen yet.

Maybe you got something rubbing up against the belt in the lower cover area. Possibly a thrust washer reversed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno. I didn't mess around with the main caps. The thrust washer shouldn't have even moved out of place.

Also check out this picture.



There isn't any writing on the belt, where it's set at TDC.


Now this is today's picture:



Notice the writing on the belt. This is also at TDC.

WTF?!!! Did it jump timing?? I have no ******* clue. I'm going tomorrow to get a new timing belt.

How did the damage occur on the top of the belt?

 

If you mark the belt at TDC you could go at TDC twice before that mark hit again, so that might have happened. Also the first pic looks like the belt is way to damn loose, what the hell is up with it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you mark the belt at TDC you could go at TDC twice before that mark hit again, so that might have happened. Also the first pic looks like the belt is way to damn loose, what the hell is up with it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure I know what you mean by that. I'm pretty sure I marked it correctly and whatever. But I dunno now. I'm just curious on how the damage occured on the top of the belt and how the letters apear now on TDC when they werent there before.

I do not want to spend money on a new timing belt and have it get ate up again.

Also if something below the head (in the block) were rubbing on it, why didn't it produce a straight line/cut into the belt? Or is just some sort of tension being forced on top of the belt where it's not needed?

Not sure why the belt apears loose in the picture, but that's just the way it is.

 

No offense dude, but there comes a time during a job like this when we must suck it up and take the car to someone who knows what they are doing. It sounds an awful lot to me like you are at this point my friend. A little cash now may very well save you from a LOT of cash later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whiteboygsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No offense dude, but there comes a time during a job like this when we must suck it up and take the car to someone who knows what they are doing. It sounds an awful lot to me like you are at this point my friend. A little cash now may very well save you from a LOT of cash later.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man, trust me if I could I would.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you mark the belt at TDC you could go at TDC twice before that mark hit again, so that might have happened. Also the first pic looks like the belt is way to damn loose, what the hell is up with it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i think what he meant to say is that one full rotation of the camshafts requires two full rotations of the crank pulley..... thus, you may be at tdc on the crank pulley, but it may be for the number 4 cylinder and not the number 1 cylinder..... when this is the case the up arrow on your cam gears should be pointing down.

 

Do it right and dont't take any short cuts. Remove the crank pulley and get everything line up to TDC on number 1. You'll be able to retate the crank by hand after you get everything back on and see if everything looks okay before buttoning everything up.

Hint : when you have the cam gears pointed up use a straight edge to make sure that the everything is exactly lined up. Take your straight edge and make sure that 9 o'clock (exhaust side), 3 o'clock (ex), 9 o'clock (intake), 3 o'clock (in) scribe lines are lined up.

 

Not the thrust bearings. I mean the thrust washer for the timing belt drive sprocket.

 

I got a friend coming over tomorrow to help me with the timing belt change and he has all the nessacary tools.

I shall see. I hope all goes well, though.

 

Dang that's hell. Good luck w/that. How'd you discover the problem?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also the first pic looks like the belt is way to damn loose, what the hell is up with it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Head's not attached.

 

I have never seen a timing belt that looks like yours. Perfectly symetrical semi-circles cut into the back of the belt Something is hitting the belt. Another thing-the lettering on the timing belt is irrelevant. The important thing is that when the crank is at TDC (white mark lines up with pointer) the cams must be lined up properly. The "up" marks up, and the hash marks on the cam gears lined up with each other in the middle. Fix whatever is cutting your belt first-if you don't find the cause, you have not looked hard enough. Hope you get it sorted out.