Hey guys, I'm about to do a major tune up on my car which is at 119k. I wanted to double check my list with you guys and see if I've got everything or if some stuff should thrown out. Thanks.

1. Timing Belt
2. Water Pump
3. Balancer Belt and its 2 seals and inspect/adjust tensioner
4. Cam seals
5. Fuel filter
6. Valve Cover Gasket
7. PCV Valve
-Check oil pan gasket
-Check headgasket
Necessary?-Check rubber boots on the ball joints (upper and lower) and rear trailing arms (behind lower rear ball joint)
-Check all rubber fuel and brake lines
-Inspect and adjust accessory belts
-Inspect front and rear brakes
-Replace brake fluids including ABS

 

Sounds good to me; how do you expect to check the headgasket, though?

 

how about plugs and wires and air filter

 

Does anyone know how much 1-7 would cost you?

 

I already did those.

As far as checking the headgasket, I'm going to have everything done at a shop. Do you think the headgasket will be too much of a hassle/time consumer to check? I'm not a millionaire, and if it's going to take some time to do then I may as well pass since obviously nothing major is going on with it right now. :S

 

Well, unless you're losing compression from a blown headgasket, which you can check w/ a compression test, then I wouldn't touch it.

The only way to visually check a headgasket is to pull the head and look at it, but after that you'd have to replace it anyways since you can't reuse headgaskets.

 

In the word of my dealer tech (23 years and counting)-it isn't broke-so don't touch it. The headgasket cannot be checked. You only need concern yourself with it if and only if there is evidence of a problem in either the head or bottom end. There is no real reason to check the torque on the headbolts for the same reason. What I would do if really concerned about engine condition would be to have them do a compression/leakdown test (~$100). There are a lot of Honda parts that can be quite old and still serviceable according to the experts I deal with.

 

if it is a h22a1 then replace the autotensioner while you are in there. and if the bearings that the timing belt rides on are the original ones you might want to replace those 2, it would suck to do all that work then have you belt stear off to one side do to a bad bearing and then eat you head. so i would replace the auto tenssioner if your car is a vtec, and then check the bearings that the timig belt rides on and the balancer belt. when i did my timing belt at 120k my originaly bearings were done for.

 

got a pic or something that shows those bearings you're talkin about?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got a pic or something that shows those bearings you're talkin about?</TD></TR></TABLE> id like to see what your talking about also

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rkonfire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not a millionaire:S </TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything would be so much easier if we all were huh.

 

It's an SI so I'm just having them check/adjust the manual tensioner. Now, these bearings you're talking about for the timing belt and balancer belt, can you go into more detail?

 

dist. cap and rotor. valve adj. while the cover is off. and definatly a t-stat, it is 13 bucks-cheap insurance. also from the bottom of the car check your front engine mount, (the one off of the radiator support) especially if it is a 4th gen. they break all the time. check the operation of your fans. it is somewhat common for the condensor fan motor to go bad. i am guessing that you service the trans regularly.

dont forget to check your fuckle buckle valve and the muffler bearings. J/K

good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rkonfire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-Inspect and adjust accessory belts
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would replace these belts anyways. They aren't expensive compared to the water pump and the timing belt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dist. cap and rotor. valve adj. while the cover is off.

dont forget to check your fuckle buckle valve and the muffler bearings. J/K

good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was surprised no one said dist cap+rotor.

Also top off the blinker fluid

A coolant flush should be done yearly but you could do that at the same time allong with changing tranny fluid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by noble4ws &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> id like to see what your talking about also</TD></TR></TABLE>



numbers 18 and 10, the bearings that the timing belt and balancer belt ride on. mine were worn preatty badlly , sounded like a pair of fucked up rollor blades when you spun them. no grease left at all

 

those "bearings" are your manual tensioner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhazedSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those "bearings" are your manual tensioner. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks cheif, i had an h22 so they were actualy 2 seperate bearings. i know one of them is part of the h23 auto tensioner.

 

Well, I have an H23 so does the same rule apply Prelittlelude?

 

yes , you should still check both of those bearings. both the h22 and h23 have timing belt and balancer belt , but the just use different tensioning devices.