well i figured come spring time once it start getting warmer im going to do a fiberglass enclosure, i wanna try a ported enclosure. my sub calls for 2 cubic feet in the specs, its an infinity kappa 120.3SE. maybe build a square port tube and support it with some braces. then stretch the fleece over that. i wanna do it in the spare tire well like i have now but i guess i could maybe fill it up with something and measure the cubic feet. would this be too terribly hard to make it ported? any suggestions about the box. i downloaded winisd, could that be used to design it?

 

bump

 

lol.. i'm just finishing up a similar fiberglass enclosure for my Type R. Since fiberglass is water tight when it cures, pour water into the enclosure and figure out how many liters, gallons, etc. fit into the air space. With some simple conversions at math.com, you can figure out how many sq. feet of air space you have in there but, I would not suggest doing a ported fiberglass enclosure unless you can guarantee that it won't crack under the pressure. (A ported box will most likely have to be larger than a sealed box so there is a larger surface area which = a higher chance of a bass note catching an imperfect area on the enclosure which = a while bunch on time and money down the drain.) Tell me how your project turns out

 

well couldn't i just build it with some more layers? and maybe sand both side of it to smooth it inside and out?

 

snading wont make it any stronger if thats what you were getting at. you can port it, depending on the style and look your going for you can do a few different ports. the easyest way would be to enclose the whole top of the enclosure with 1 sheet of MDF the cut out a rectangular port then back it that way.

Your Idea will work too, you just have to make sure you fiberglass it very well, with atleast 2 layers or more. and also the back/inside. build very good supports for the subs and the port, 3/4" MDF at least . ANd PLAN PLAN PLAN

Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oblivion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">snading wont make it any stronger if thats what you were getting at. you can port it, depending on the style and look your going for you can do a few different ports. the easyest way would be to enclose the whole top of the enclosure with 1 sheet of MDF the cut out a rectangular port then back it that way.

Your Idea will work too, you just have to make sure you fiberglass it very well, with atleast 2 layers or more. and also the back/inside. build very good supports for the subs and the port, 3/4" MDF at least . ANd PLAN PLAN PLAN


Good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>

never mind, when he said imperfect area i was like ...hhmm does he mean like an uneven surface. im gonna brace it pretty good. i am beginning my planning now so once springtime comes around i can just build it.

 

a few guidelines on building with fiberglass. The number of layers is not as important as the overall thickness. Generally, fiberglass that is 3/8" thick is roughly as strong as MDF that is 3/4" thick. However, fiberglass is strongest when it is NOT flat. This is why it works great for trick shapes. The good news is that you can do several layers at a time. Since you have not done too much work with it, stick to about 3-4 layers at a time. Otherwise, the heat that gets generated by the curing process can crack it. Do your 3-4 layers and give it about 2 hours to cure and then you can do another set of layers, until you get to your desired thickness. This is a fun process to learn and is fairly forgiving if you are careful. One last tip. Do the mold of tire well with the first couple of layers and then remove it and do the rest. This will get the smell out of your ride as fast as possible!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vividsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a few guidelines on building with fiberglass. The number of layers is not as important as the overall thickness. Generally, fiberglass that is 3/8" thick is roughly as strong as MDF that is 3/4" thick. However, fiberglass is strongest when it is NOT flat. This is why it works great for trick shapes. The good news is that you can do several layers at a time. Since you have not done too much work with it, stick to about 3-4 layers at a time. Otherwise, the heat that gets generated by the curing process can crack it. Do your 3-4 layers and give it about 2 hours to cure and then you can do another set of layers, until you get to your desired thickness. This is a fun process to learn and is fairly forgiving if you are careful. One last tip. Do the mold of tire well with the first couple of layers and then remove it and do the rest. This will get the smell out of your ride as fast as possible!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i appreciate the tips man, after i build it i think i might tackle building come kick panel enclosures for some components or a custom bezel that goes around my radio and shifter. what should i line the tire well with? i have heard and seen pictures of many things, some people use a ton of tap, others use aluminum foil, and others use plastic. would a round port of a sqaure port be easier? my sub is an infinity kappa 120.3SE. i know i could just build a square port out of mdf then brace it. i guess it really would come down to having the right size opening.

could someone give me some tips on using winisd? i downloaded it a few weeks ago and haven't really quite understood it.