Ignitor = rattle?
I had a post a while back about my ignitor on the way out. the tach fluters but the engine speed doesnt change. I checked the connections and clened them but still it flutters.
Within the same day that my tach started fluttering my engine developed a loud clattering sound. Its not valve tick, and I removed each plug wire at a time so I dont think its a spun bearing or rod. The noise does increase as rpms do but once I hit about 3k theres no noise whatsoever.
Is there any way an ignitor on the way out could cause any type of engine chatter? Possibly misfiring? Plugs show no sign of detonation, no power loss whatsoever either. And once it warms up the noise is a bit quieter.
Acura is closed today so I cant run up and grab an ignitor, I'll be doing that tomorrow and probably pulling the oil pan looking for flakes. Any input is appreciated.
Within the same day that my tach started fluttering my engine developed a loud clattering sound. Its not valve tick, and I removed each plug wire at a time so I dont think its a spun bearing or rod. The noise does increase as rpms do but once I hit about 3k theres no noise whatsoever.
Is there any way an ignitor on the way out could cause any type of engine chatter? Possibly misfiring? Plugs show no sign of detonation, no power loss whatsoever either. And once it warms up the noise is a bit quieter.
Acura is closed today so I cant run up and grab an ignitor, I'll be doing that tomorrow and probably pulling the oil pan looking for flakes. Any input is appreciated.
i cant answer your question, but i have similar problems.
My tach is on crack! it is fine abotu 50% of the time and the other 50% it is jumpy all over even when i am driving.
I changed my tach with another one and it seems to have the same problem. I hope my ignitor is good. I jsut bougth it from a guy here on H-T who said it was good.
I was able to hook up an external tach and run it straight off of the msd coil and it read fine.
I have no check engien lights
My tach is on crack! it is fine abotu 50% of the time and the other 50% it is jumpy all over even when i am driving.
I changed my tach with another one and it seems to have the same problem. I hope my ignitor is good. I jsut bougth it from a guy here on H-T who said it was good.
I was able to hook up an external tach and run it straight off of the msd coil and it read fine.
I have no check engien lights
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Trapped in time, Surrounded by evil, Low on gas
the noise could be the distributor bearing, some common signs of a bad bearing would be red dust inside the distributor and cap, and the obvious ones, rotor wobbling, broken shaft, etc.
if you PM me i can give you the run down check for igniter and coil procedures, ( my helms is at home), you would need an automotive multimeter for it.
replace your igniter and coil at the same time as a pair, as i found out the hard way, if any of them need to be replaced.
Stan
if you PM me i can give you the run down check for igniter and coil procedures, ( my helms is at home), you would need an automotive multimeter for it.
replace your igniter and coil at the same time as a pair, as i found out the hard way, if any of them need to be replaced.
Stan
Fellas, why not just replace the ignitor? I also don't know about a direct link to the noise/ignitor, but change it anyway and it will most likely solve the tach jump.
when the spark jumps to the wrong place in the distributor cap it can make a loud clicking noise. check you distributor cap for carbon trails leading from the rotor button. check your rotor to see if there is a hole in the middle (grounded rotor). check your spark plug wires for breaks. check your spark plugs for proper gap.
Little bit of an update...
After picking up the ignitor I got home and had to leave for work in an hour or so, didnt replace the ignitor but on my way out the car just died, heard a loud "pop" but was still in my neighborhood luckily.
Pushed it back to my house, took off the cap and the rotor just fell out in pieces....I counted at least 6. No dust or shavings though. So...got my other car, went n grabbed a cap n rotor, replaced it.
Now, the tach flutter is very rare, theres no noise but now the tach reads a few hundred rpms higher at idle and a few hundred lower when cruising on the higway.
I know when my idle is right at 800 as my headshields go crazy...but it shows like 1200, then on the interstate I know at 80mph I'm at 4k but it reads 3400-3500.
So I'll be replacing the ignitor eventually, its just been sitting in my pass seat just in case......bleh...
After picking up the ignitor I got home and had to leave for work in an hour or so, didnt replace the ignitor but on my way out the car just died, heard a loud "pop" but was still in my neighborhood luckily.
Pushed it back to my house, took off the cap and the rotor just fell out in pieces....I counted at least 6. No dust or shavings though. So...got my other car, went n grabbed a cap n rotor, replaced it.
Now, the tach flutter is very rare, theres no noise but now the tach reads a few hundred rpms higher at idle and a few hundred lower when cruising on the higway.
I know when my idle is right at 800 as my headshields go crazy...but it shows like 1200, then on the interstate I know at 80mph I'm at 4k but it reads 3400-3500.
So I'll be replacing the ignitor eventually, its just been sitting in my pass seat just in case......bleh...
I'm having a similar problem but, mine happens at higher speeds and only when hitting the gas. Someone had told me it may be the igniter so, I guess I'll give that a try.
Miguel
Miguel
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