SCCA Club Racing Question For Racers
Well, I am very excited, since my SCCA Regional Competition License finally arrived in the mail today. I am now making serious plans to participate in at least 4 races next year, so that I am eligible for the National License. I knew there are a few regular racers in this forum, and I have some questions:
1. I went to http://www.scca.org/amateur/club_rac...ses/index.html and it appears that the ITR can race in 4 different categories: Touring-2, SSB, SSC, and any one of ITs, (ITS, ITA, ITB, ITC). I am correct? Which of these classes would be the most appropriate? As a driver, I would rate myself medium-good at the moment, a 6, maybe a 7 on a good day, on a scale of 1-10.
2. This isn't mentioned on their site, but do you need to have a full racing cage to take part in SCCA races? Or would a rollbar be acceptable? This is important, since if I need to have a cage, then I need to think about buying a second car and completely convert the ITR to a racing car. I don't want to do this unless I have to. It would be nice if I could make the car race legal, while keeping it a daily driver as well.
3. I will be installing the Icebox very soon. A Mugen H/E is also in the plans. Would those mods disqualify me from any of the classes? Again, the site isn't very clear on what the allowed mods are.
Any answers would be much appreciated.
1. I went to http://www.scca.org/amateur/club_rac...ses/index.html and it appears that the ITR can race in 4 different categories: Touring-2, SSB, SSC, and any one of ITs, (ITS, ITA, ITB, ITC). I am correct? Which of these classes would be the most appropriate? As a driver, I would rate myself medium-good at the moment, a 6, maybe a 7 on a good day, on a scale of 1-10.
2. This isn't mentioned on their site, but do you need to have a full racing cage to take part in SCCA races? Or would a rollbar be acceptable? This is important, since if I need to have a cage, then I need to think about buying a second car and completely convert the ITR to a racing car. I don't want to do this unless I have to. It would be nice if I could make the car race legal, while keeping it a daily driver as well.
3. I will be installing the Icebox very soon. A Mugen H/E is also in the plans. Would those mods disqualify me from any of the classes? Again, the site isn't very clear on what the allowed mods are.
Any answers would be much appreciated.
good questions, i'm also wondering about your third question.
i have an AEM CAI, header, and cam gears.
i was also planning on getting cams over the winter, until next season.
what class would that put me into, if any?
i'd like to know what mods would prohibit me from racing, so that i know what i can & can't do.
thanks for any help
argiris
i have an AEM CAI, header, and cam gears.
i was also planning on getting cams over the winter, until next season.
what class would that put me into, if any?
i'd like to know what mods would prohibit me from racing, so that i know what i can & can't do.
thanks for any help
argiris
You really need to order a rules book. The GSRs run in ITS. Your ITR may be classified for IT Racing next year if it is a 97 model, usually cars have to be 5 years old to run IT. There also may be a SS class for you but this is why you need a rules book. ANY class will require a minimum of a 6pt bolt in roll cage.
You should really think about purchasing a built car in maybe the ITC, ITB or ITA classes. You could get one from $4000-10000 fairly well sorted out already. Then you can worry about learning all the tracks and getting seat time/experience. I would not recommend driving a race car to an event with hopes of having a ride home. Performance Driving schools do not = road racing! Missed shift, broken axle, or even an accident will screw up your plans to get home Sunday evening.
You should really think about purchasing a built car in maybe the ITC, ITB or ITA classes. You could get one from $4000-10000 fairly well sorted out already. Then you can worry about learning all the tracks and getting seat time/experience. I would not recommend driving a race car to an event with hopes of having a ride home. Performance Driving schools do not = road racing! Missed shift, broken axle, or even an accident will screw up your plans to get home Sunday evening.
Yes you need a GCR, order from the SCCA web site before you do anything else. Yes you will need a full cage, race seat, electric cutoff, and fire ext or system. Type Rs can run SCCA in T2 and ITE, with those mods you will run in ITE and lose. Without those mods you will run T2 and lose, but not as bad. Look to run with NASA instead, the R can run in PCTCC and be competative. Better yet you may want to take the advise above and buy a IT CRX or something that is already built, inexpensive, and reliable. Good luck, and have fun.
I am also considering getting into racing. This may or may not apply to you, but before taking the racing plunge consider the following:
1. You may be a good driver but the person behind you may not and can total your car (read the Grassroots Mag article about two months ago). So, make sure you have enough money to buy another shell of whatever car you run.
2. Sooner or later (more sooner) your race car will not function as a street car. Not necessarily because of removing the catalytic converter, but getting into and out of a full caged car is annoying and actually a caged car is DANGEROUS on the street. If your head hits the cage in an accident, it will hurt, a lot !
3. Because of 1 and 2 above you will need a tow vehicle.
4. The initial expense is alot. Full fireproof clothing, race fees, lodging fees, etc. etc. Make sure your wallet is prepared for the budget.
This is not to discourage anyone from racing. I actually didn't realize the full expense. So, I am holding my racing plans off for about another year. I figured, racing schools/track days/ Solo 1 competitions are fun for the meantime. Still chances of damaging car, though, but that is the risk I am willing to take, for now.
Before doing any mods, get the rulebook for the organization. In the Northeast, there are three great organizations that hold full door to door racing...SCCA, NASA, and EMRA.
1. You may be a good driver but the person behind you may not and can total your car (read the Grassroots Mag article about two months ago). So, make sure you have enough money to buy another shell of whatever car you run.
2. Sooner or later (more sooner) your race car will not function as a street car. Not necessarily because of removing the catalytic converter, but getting into and out of a full caged car is annoying and actually a caged car is DANGEROUS on the street. If your head hits the cage in an accident, it will hurt, a lot !
3. Because of 1 and 2 above you will need a tow vehicle.
4. The initial expense is alot. Full fireproof clothing, race fees, lodging fees, etc. etc. Make sure your wallet is prepared for the budget.
This is not to discourage anyone from racing. I actually didn't realize the full expense. So, I am holding my racing plans off for about another year. I figured, racing schools/track days/ Solo 1 competitions are fun for the meantime. Still chances of damaging car, though, but that is the risk I am willing to take, for now.
Before doing any mods, get the rulebook for the organization. In the Northeast, there are three great organizations that hold full door to door racing...SCCA, NASA, and EMRA.
1. I went to http://www.scca.org/amateur/club_rac...ses/index.html and it appears that the ITR can race in 4 different categories: Touring-2, SSB, SSC, and any one of ITs, (ITS, ITA, ITB, ITC). I am correct? Which of these classes would be the most appropriate? As a driver, I would rate myself medium-good at the moment, a 6, maybe a 7 on a good day, on a scale of 1-10.
2. This isn't mentioned on their site, but do you need to have a full racing cage to take part in SCCA races? Or would a rollbar be acceptable? This is important, since if I need to have a cage, then I need to think about buying a second car and completely convert the ITR to a racing car. I don't want to do this unless I have to. It would be nice if I could make the car race legal, while keeping it a daily driver as well.
3. I will be installing the Icebox very soon. A Mugen H/E is also in the plans. Would those mods disqualify me from any of the classes? Again, the site isn't very clear on what the allowed mods are.
The best choice is to purchase another car for road racing, such as an CRX, civic Hatch. You can buy one race prepped for 4-7K. Depending on equipment. This is the best route asn one I plan to take once I can get funds together. And also plan on spending $600 min a race weekend. (Entry fee, Tires, consumables, lodging, gas, travel expenses........ and repairs!!)
If you want to just get on the track take the ITR, put in a rollbar and go to as many drivers schools as you can. The stock ITR is incredible on the track, I've been there personally

[Modified by StageOne, 5:07 PM 9/26/2001]
Thank you all, so much valuable information. I think I may have to delay this for a year or 2. My license should remain current. In the meantime, I like the idea of putting in a rollbar for the ITR and using it for many track days and just get better. Then, it might make sense to just buy a race-prepped car. I am now beginning to realize how expensive this is all going to be.
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fso BamBam,
The Type R is only classed in Touring 2 at the moment but can run in ITE as mentioned on a Region by Region basis.
You do need a full cage to race. You really have to get a SCCA GCR before you do anything to your car so that it is legal to run. For example the intake and header are not legal in T2.
As mentioned the Type R is overclassed in T2 but if you already have the car you can still have fun. The North West Region is undersubscribed in T2 so you can race with other cars in your Run Group and still get a win. If you want to race to improve your skills and have more fun than is imaginable then the Type R is great, if you want to podium at the Valvoline Runoffs then I would look at another car.
If you want to mod your car you can run ITE in the NWR but you will not be in position to win on a shear lack of HP quotient.
I ran T2 this season and have not regretted it at all. I learned to drive and race better, I had lots of fun and I am the NWR Regional T2 champion because no one else showed up to race. Not a Championship to brag about but my Grandkids won't have to know that
.
The NWR also has some great helpful people to guide you along including some people from this list such as ITR Hybrid and John G and even myself if you want some more info.
Good Luck,
Victor Penner
The Type R is only classed in Touring 2 at the moment but can run in ITE as mentioned on a Region by Region basis.
You do need a full cage to race. You really have to get a SCCA GCR before you do anything to your car so that it is legal to run. For example the intake and header are not legal in T2.
As mentioned the Type R is overclassed in T2 but if you already have the car you can still have fun. The North West Region is undersubscribed in T2 so you can race with other cars in your Run Group and still get a win. If you want to race to improve your skills and have more fun than is imaginable then the Type R is great, if you want to podium at the Valvoline Runoffs then I would look at another car.
If you want to mod your car you can run ITE in the NWR but you will not be in position to win on a shear lack of HP quotient.
I ran T2 this season and have not regretted it at all. I learned to drive and race better, I had lots of fun and I am the NWR Regional T2 champion because no one else showed up to race. Not a Championship to brag about but my Grandkids won't have to know that
. The NWR also has some great helpful people to guide you along including some people from this list such as ITR Hybrid and John G and even myself if you want some more info.
Good Luck,
Victor Penner
Everyone is saying that the ITR would not be competitive in the T2 class. I just spent the weekend at the SCCA Valvoline Runoffs and I watched the T2 race. There was one S2000 in the race and it got second. The S2000 had the second fastest lap times out of anyone. That includes the Mustang that just barely beat it. The Mustang had the S2000 on its rear all throughout the turns but the Mustang just had a lot more trouque so the S2000 couldn't get around. An ITR isn't far off of the performance of an S2000, it also has more troque. I think an ITR could do fine in the T2 class, more so with a very good driver.
--Merritt
--Merritt
My advise if you want to race competively on on the road circiut is think about the following.
1. Get the SCCA GCR (or what ever group you will be racing with) first! It's only a few bucks and will save you big $$$ later. Trust me on that one. Too many people build hot rods to find out they don't fit into any class. Build the car to the class. Start in the slowest, cheapest, least competative class you can, then work your way up. You will have a better experience and be able to make some mistakes and recover.
2. Get a dedicated race car. Do not use a car you can not afford to throw in the trash today! As mentioned earlier simple things like cats will take you out of the top 10 off the bat. Also chicks really dig cars with role cages, get my drift. You will scare all the girlies! Ok that's the fun part.
2.Go to the track with someone that is racing and find out what they do. Hang out listen & learn. That will help you decide what class you want to run. Most people underestimate the time and money involved.
3. In addition to the car with all the safety equipment, you will need a pile of money for gas, parts, and tools. You will also need a truck and a trailer. If you don't trailer your car and drive 300 miles to the event and something happens your screwed. It's is said a trailer will get out 10 secs per lap. Add in drivers suit, shoes, helmet, underwear, etc... you will be in around the 20K mark before you know it.
4. Pick a class that suits your financial and time needs. If you simply want to go play, stay with track days and don't change the car, because competative racing requires different levels of dedication. If you race PTCCC it is a national tour. If you want to hit all the races, you wil need time and money to travel. I'm not familiar with T2 but I know, IT is local... cept maybe national run offs.
5. If your married either get your sig other onboard before you start or they will probably leave while your at race.
Well maybe not, but racing is a full time hobby if you want to win, it will take sacrafices on you social life.
6. Role cage and safety equipment should be your number 1 priority. When I built my car, Ken @ IOport racing really helped me out and he would not let me skimp any any safety stuff! He knows his stuff! Very glad becuase I tested it at Sears Point! It's expensive but how much is your life worth?
7. Research! Research! Research!. You can't do enough!
Good luck!
1. Get the SCCA GCR (or what ever group you will be racing with) first! It's only a few bucks and will save you big $$$ later. Trust me on that one. Too many people build hot rods to find out they don't fit into any class. Build the car to the class. Start in the slowest, cheapest, least competative class you can, then work your way up. You will have a better experience and be able to make some mistakes and recover.
2. Get a dedicated race car. Do not use a car you can not afford to throw in the trash today! As mentioned earlier simple things like cats will take you out of the top 10 off the bat. Also chicks really dig cars with role cages, get my drift. You will scare all the girlies! Ok that's the fun part.
2.Go to the track with someone that is racing and find out what they do. Hang out listen & learn. That will help you decide what class you want to run. Most people underestimate the time and money involved.
3. In addition to the car with all the safety equipment, you will need a pile of money for gas, parts, and tools. You will also need a truck and a trailer. If you don't trailer your car and drive 300 miles to the event and something happens your screwed. It's is said a trailer will get out 10 secs per lap. Add in drivers suit, shoes, helmet, underwear, etc... you will be in around the 20K mark before you know it.
4. Pick a class that suits your financial and time needs. If you simply want to go play, stay with track days and don't change the car, because competative racing requires different levels of dedication. If you race PTCCC it is a national tour. If you want to hit all the races, you wil need time and money to travel. I'm not familiar with T2 but I know, IT is local... cept maybe national run offs.
5. If your married either get your sig other onboard before you start or they will probably leave while your at race.
Well maybe not, but racing is a full time hobby if you want to win, it will take sacrafices on you social life. 6. Role cage and safety equipment should be your number 1 priority. When I built my car, Ken @ IOport racing really helped me out and he would not let me skimp any any safety stuff! He knows his stuff! Very glad becuase I tested it at Sears Point! It's expensive but how much is your life worth?
7. Research! Research! Research!. You can't do enough!
Good luck!
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
How did you get a license without knowing any of this? Or did you go to one of Skippy's schools (if you did, I highly recommend attending at least one SCCA run school to get the feel for an SCCA weekend)?
To obtain a regional competition license, you must complete two certified competition schools and two regional races. By the sound of it, you have done neither (or you would know the answers to most of your questions).
And NO you license will not remain current if you are not participating in races. You must complete at least two regional races successfully per year to maintain a regional license.
Please buy a copy of the GCR and read it cover to cover. Twice. It's the only way to learn the rules. Relying on 2nd hand online information is not a good way to build a safe, legal, and comptetive car.
To obtain a regional competition license, you must complete two certified competition schools and two regional races. By the sound of it, you have done neither (or you would know the answers to most of your questions).
And NO you license will not remain current if you are not participating in races. You must complete at least two regional races successfully per year to maintain a regional license.
Please buy a copy of the GCR and read it cover to cover. Twice. It's the only way to learn the rules. Relying on 2nd hand online information is not a good way to build a safe, legal, and comptetive car.
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