Wassup boys, After I do my clutch I'm saving up for my W7, and I want some input on a box, i was thinking, eh maybe a tire well box, but it's just so plain jane, and then i was thinking HMM, maybe remove my seats (4th gen prelude) and build the box into there so it'll fire directly into my ear and sound HELLA clean, with not a lot of rattle, that's my main concern is the rattling, but if any of you guys has an idea of something i can do, i'm really looking for some ideas, i haven't decided what size i wanna go with either, eh, i guess it depends on how deep my pockets are, preish on anyone that can give me a good idea

 

kinda bit off, but if you want, i know a guy that is selling a brand new 8w7 or a used 12w7 for 375 shipped.

or might as well go all ***** with a 13w7 for 600 shipped. lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kinda bit off, but if you want, i know a guy that is selling a brand new 8w7 or a used 12w7 for 375 shipped.

or might as well go all ***** with a 13w7 for 600 shipped. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or he can save his cash and go ID max.
W7 is a good woofer, but very inefficient.
Needs a big box to be pushed easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Peter Griffen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Or he can save his cash and go ID max.
W7 is a good woofer, but very inefficient.
Needs a big box to be pushed easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

uhhh...i thought the more efficient a sub is...the more air it could push.

 

efficiency is expressed in percentages.
to get all icky on the subject, the W7 is less than 5% efficient. Everything else goes turns into heat.

If that is bad, wait til you see how "efficient" the idmax is. Not pretty as the w7. Efficiency of the system is controlled by the box. Doesn't matter what it says on paper about sensitivity because that only a piece of the puzzle.

I would go with the W7 in this case.

W7&gt;idmax

**flaming suit on**

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">efficiency is expressed in percentages.
to get all icky on the subject, the W7 is less than 5% efficient. Everything else goes turns into heat.

If that is bad, wait til you see how "efficient" the idmax is. Not pretty as the w7. Efficiency of the system is controlled by the box. Doesn't matter what it says on paper about sensitivity because that only a piece of the puzzle.

I would go with the W7 in this case.

W7&gt;idmax

**flaming suit on**</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh you would.
Have you tried both?
I have tried both.
The ID Max is much more effecient in a smaller box then the W7.
SQ wise it has certain advantages over the ID, but it requires a big box and has a higher power requirement.
I slammed a to3 against the W7 and the ID max.
So don't even say I had a weak amp.

 

So on with the thread jacking bastards, lol j/k, but anyway, the question wasn't whether or not I was going with Image Dynamics or JL Audio, the question was do any of you have ideas on the way I can build a box? Preish on all the other input though guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Peter Griffen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh you would.
Have you tried both?
I have tried both.
The ID Max is much more effecient in a smaller box then the W7.
SQ wise it has certain advantages over the ID, but it requires a big box and has a higher power requirement.
I slammed a to3 against the W7 and the ID max.
So don't even say I had a weak amp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Considering I own 12" IDMAX v3, a 12w7, and a 10w7, I think I have enough play time with them. With over 2200x1@2ohm available, it'll get either sub moving, regardless of box size. You have Sensitivity and Efficiency mixed up. Efficiency is expressed as a percentage, which both subs have terrible efficiency, but the W7 is more efficient at higher power handling level. the W7 have an advantage over the idmax at higher volume level, mainly because the W7 doesn't even run into major power compression yet, as the idmax will heat up pretty quick.

But a higher sensitivity isn't always better. What if he's looking for more low-end instead of a sub with a higher sensitivity rating? Maybe he has over 1000 watts already, enough to push either subs to their limits. Maybe he wants pure sound quality and knows that either sub will get loud enough for him. Maybe he wants an extreme sub? Maybe he just wants a W7?

PetroGuyX, what do you want?

And again, I'm just sticking with the facts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PetroGuyX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So on with the thread jacking bastards, lol j/k, but anyway, the question wasn't whether or not I was going with Image Dynamics or JL Audio, the question was do any of you have ideas on the way I can build a box? Preish on all the other input though guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have any pictures of what you want the box to look like?

 

You have a very good point in asking what I want, and it's most definitely a W7, but as far as what the box looks like... i'm really not sure, i've seen pictures of what i want it to look like, i mean we all know what a basic tire well box looks like, and as far as my other idea, i just saw it at a show and haven't really seen another car like it

 

Well I work in a shop that we are very big fans of the JL audio line. But about your box I just got through doing a 10W3 in the tire well of a 91 hatchback and it looks and sounds awesome. I am starting this week with a 8W7 in a 88 hatchback behind the back seat but probably not in the tire well because doing a sub that big you want to "doublestack" your wood beacause you might run into problems with your box breaking if you don't. But I would say not to face the sub torwards you at all because your not firing it off of anything their for you can't get the bass wave your looking for, for the killer bass that sub can produce. I would say put the sub behind the back seat in a simple design and you will get props no matter what for the w7 all day long

 

I never said more effeciency makes a better woofer.
The W7 has a better low end, but he will need power to make it sound good.
More powerful amp means more money.
overall the ID max will be a good choice since it can be had and powered for so much less.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sapphead &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But I would say not to face the sub torwards you at all because your not firing it off of anything their for you can't get the bass wave your looking for, for the killer bass that sub can produce. I would say put the sub behind the back seat in a simple design and you will get props no matter what for the w7 all day long</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good call, i didn't even think about that, i'd still think it'd be cool though But as far as the w3 goes that's what i had, i build a ported box for it, it sounded amazing, but i just ran out of money and had to sell it, and now i'm slowly but surely getting money back and i'm going crazy without bump, i'm still thinking of what i wanna do

 

sorry if this was already mentioned, i didnt take the time to read the whole thread, but if you want a sub that pounds in a small box then how bout the a series from elemental designs. they require only about 2 cubes sealed, and around 3 ported and sound damn good.

 

while your saving your money look at the boxes that JL is selling the w7 in they have some nice pre-fab boxes (don't be fooled by a non-JL prefabed box) they can solve both your problems, by giving you a good looking box, and easily fired towards the back of your car.....or build one yourself, just to make sure you are using 1" mdf not 3/4.... good luck 'cuz the w7 is by far the most incredible subwoofer built for a car as of yet...

 

Can you read??<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Peter Griffen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never said more effeciency makes a better woofer.
The W7 has a better low end, but he will need power to make it sound good.
More powerful amp means more money.
overall the ID max will be a good choice since it can be had and powered for so much less.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He wants a W7 (good choice by the way)
The only 12W7 I have ever heard was in a sealed box in the back of an Eclipse, it was firing up into the glass of the trunk and sounded dang good. Sealed or ported you will run into problems of having to much bass and not being able to hear the music. (I'll assume your not an extreme bass head) Of course it is always awesome just to be able to crank the bass way up when someone gets in your car, I would say that you would favor ported for more dramatic bass, but you have to also consider how you will normaly be listening to it. IMO I would go with a sealed, less cubes to have to worry about, easier to do a custom install, plenty of clean beautiful bass. I agree that you should have it pointed away from you, let the bass reflect off of something

 

fellas some advice , go with the JL w6 2nd series, you wont be disappointed, sounds almost like the W7, and not as expensive

 

The real question is CAN YOU READ???????
I was discussing with another member id v.s W7 to open insight to the maker of the thread that is great you want a W7, but consider other alts.
as for sealed or ported.
It all depends on the woofer.
I have ported subs "designed" for sealed like the eclipse alums and they sound great in both ported and bandpass. many others in the car audio community have done so as well.
It all depends.
ported sealed, on phase, reverse phase.
many factors.


Modified by Peter Griffen at 5:29 AM 1/9/2004

 

w7 is a good woofer, but i honestly think the sq isnt that great. i say save some money and look into a kicker 12vr4, jlw3, or even the hifonics zues

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RE-Spect &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fellas some advice , go with the JL w6 2nd series, you wont be disappointed, sounds almost like the W7, and not as expensive </TD></TR></TABLE>

That was my other option, either a 12 or 13w6v2, a little bit cheaper, with a little less bass/power handling, like i said, i'm just trying to get an idea, either way i'd probably do the same kind of box for either sub...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [626 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">phixionEF91]w7 is a good woofer, but i honestly think the sq isnt that great. i say save some money and look into a kicker 12vr4, jlw3, or even the hifonics zues
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a w3 in a ported box, it was badass, i just want something a little more, and i'll never go anywhere but JL after having that sub

 

best bet is to modify a slot ported box to fit in the area of the rear seat, it could work. You could build bottom panels to cover out flush where the gas tank would be. Plus it would sound much better than a spare sub, i have never heard one sound as good as if their was just a simple ported box in place. You could design a spare pod sub to sound really good, but most likely you are going to be using Free air subs, and your using the spair area as a infinite baffle. Not something the W7 would like

 

i would say go down there to that there rockhill store and get u wanna them there w7"s turn it sideways and stick it up ur candy a@#