Another rev-light option
I picked up one of these:
http://www.datatool.co.uk/prod...D=235
And ordered it from here:
http://www.revlimiterracing.co....html
It was primarily made for sport bikes but it works on any vehicle with an engine speed sensor. The lights are programmable so you can cover any range of revs. Also, the lights have 3 modes; single light that moves up the scale with the revs, sequential lights, or shift light (all lights blink at a designated rpm).
The only problem I had was the wiring was designed for a motorcycle so I had to solder on 2-3 extra feet of wire to make all the connections. Also, the supplied wire is wrapped in silver so I wrapped it in electrical tape so it isn't so bright.
Writeup on http://www.geocities.com/rineracing/
Oh yeah: $110 shipped
Modified by Geratol at 4:04 PM 1/2/2004
Modified by Geratol at 4:29 PM 1/2/2004
http://www.datatool.co.uk/prod...D=235
And ordered it from here:
http://www.revlimiterracing.co....html
It was primarily made for sport bikes but it works on any vehicle with an engine speed sensor. The lights are programmable so you can cover any range of revs. Also, the lights have 3 modes; single light that moves up the scale with the revs, sequential lights, or shift light (all lights blink at a designated rpm).
The only problem I had was the wiring was designed for a motorcycle so I had to solder on 2-3 extra feet of wire to make all the connections. Also, the supplied wire is wrapped in silver so I wrapped it in electrical tape so it isn't so bright.
Writeup on http://www.geocities.com/rineracing/
Oh yeah: $110 shipped
Modified by Geratol at 4:04 PM 1/2/2004
Modified by Geratol at 4:29 PM 1/2/2004
We've tested this unit. You can also get a nice aluminum pod for a little extra. Only shortcoming we found is that because of the fact that it's desgined for high-rev street bikes (13,000+), IMO it has too many lights for even a 9k reving I4,, and consequently it begins lighting too early (at like 2,500 rpm). As for programmablity it was challenging but possible, not something you'd want to adjust trackside as it requires a main lead to be placed on and off a ground as a 'switch'. Otherwise the quality of these units was very high and the auto-dim nice too. and Lo-Buck, they are the same brightness all across but the effect of brightness is cumulative as the lights remain lit.
Another option i've seen and was thinking of getting is this one:
$89 and seems to be designed for the more common 6-8000rpm bandwith of an automotive 4cyl...
http://www.ltbmotorsport.com/revlite.html

$89 and seems to be designed for the more common 6-8000rpm bandwith of an automotive 4cyl...
http://www.ltbmotorsport.com/revlite.html
jsi-i have the rev-lite you are looking at. nice peice. works well, easy to set up and adjust. i find it very helpfull to know that when the first light comes on i have 1000 rpm left before hitting the limiter. we had a few posts on it but not many people on this board are running it. check out the race-sport link in my sig. those guys have them also
-spenc
-spenc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jsi-i have the rev-lite you are looking at. nice peice. works well, easy to set up and adjust. i find it very helpfull to know that when the first light comes on i have 1000 rpm left before hitting the limiter. we had a few posts on it but not many people on this board are running it. check out the race-sport link in my sig. those guys have them also
-spenc</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you use this to auto-x or drag? Is it bright enough to see during the day, the lights look a little small, and I figured it'd be kinda dim.
-spenc</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you use this to auto-x or drag? Is it bright enough to see during the day, the lights look a little small, and I figured it'd be kinda dim.
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actually I'm the importer for Rev-Lite (which I why I tested the datatool and any other we could find)...Payne does carry the Rev-Lites too, but for $99 (it's in his garage sale area)...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Installed one of these last week. Works well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Installed one of these last week. Works well.
mrillegalX-i use mine for autox and hpde. its plenty bright enough to see during the day (even through the late day glare in the esses at LRP) but isnt overly bright for night time use. i have it mounted in the dash toward the bottom of the cluster, like in the pic above. id like to move it up to where geratol has his but i cant realy see it due to the steering wheel being in the way. i got mine from aaron @ race-sport (the link in my sig).
to him
-spenc
to him-spenc
That's the pic of my dash on the rev-lite website. Sorry my camera was focusing on the steering wheel and not on the shift light... I'll need to send them a clearer one.
Jeremy...I posted this at home, but the damn laptop died on me, again 
Anyhow...if the shift light comes on too early either set it for a higher ending number, or open up the case and disconnect the earlier LEDs.
Austin

Anyhow...if the shift light comes on too early either set it for a higher ending number, or open up the case and disconnect the earlier LEDs.
Austin
The lights are totally programmable. You sample where idle and 4k are then it calculates when the lights will come on for each of the rpm limits you set. There is no reason you have to set idle at idle. If you think out side the box you can get the lights to come on whenever you want and it doesn't have to be linear.
The biggest reason I went with this one over the rev-lite is that I wanted to display the whole rpm range so that I could capture it on the in-car camera. The Tach isn't visible enough to reliably see from the camcorder.
The biggest reason I went with this one over the rev-lite is that I wanted to display the whole rpm range so that I could capture it on the in-car camera. The Tach isn't visible enough to reliably see from the camcorder.
I'm looking at the Rev-Lite too, for Auto-X use. Checking my tach constantly translates into way too much exercise for the cone workers...
My question is, in broad daylight, with a helmet on, is it angled properly and bright enough to be seen while looking at the course when mounted as shown in the pic, below the cluster?
- Jim
My question is, in broad daylight, with a helmet on, is it angled properly and bright enough to be seen while looking at the course when mounted as shown in the pic, below the cluster?
- Jim
Hell yes, I can feel the weekend project coming on now... I'll have to make a quick-disconnect plug, or have my helmet permanently connected to my dash tach signal wire. Sweet!
Still, I think a steering column mounting would probably be more practical...
- Jim
Still, I think a steering column mounting would probably be more practical...

- Jim
The only time the lights are a little too dim was when the sun is on the horizon behind my left shoulder. There was another problem when the sun was low and in front of the car because the bulk of the unit is a clear rubber and the sun could shine through. This was solved by putting a strip of black electrical tape over the back. The picture above was before I added the black strip.
Yes you can set the idle to 4k. You have to recalculate the numbers to get it to work but is should be possible.
For example I believe it calculates the rpm by sampling idle and you tell it what 4k looks like. You could tell it 4k is idle and 8k is really 4k. then when you program it you just have to remember 4k=0, 5k=1k and so on. Another method would be to tell it 4k is idle and 6k (if you don't want to rev to 8k) is 4k. Then you just have to cut your calculations in half.
The best part of all is that I recently discovered if you unplug your battery the light retains it's memory.
Yes you can set the idle to 4k. You have to recalculate the numbers to get it to work but is should be possible.
For example I believe it calculates the rpm by sampling idle and you tell it what 4k looks like. You could tell it 4k is idle and 8k is really 4k. then when you program it you just have to remember 4k=0, 5k=1k and so on. Another method would be to tell it 4k is idle and 6k (if you don't want to rev to 8k) is 4k. Then you just have to cut your calculations in half.
The best part of all is that I recently discovered if you unplug your battery the light retains it's memory.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks pritty pimp. do the lights increase in brightness as they sweep toward the green?
Modified by Lo-Buck EF at 8:09 PM 1/2/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Green is kinda dim, yelow is brighter and red is the brightest.
Modified by Lo-Buck EF at 8:09 PM 1/2/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Green is kinda dim, yelow is brighter and red is the brightest.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sylverius »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hell yes, I can feel the weekend project coming on now... I'll have to make a quick-disconnect plug, or have my helmet permanently connected to my dash tach signal wire. Sweet!
Still, I think a steering column mounting would probably be more practical...
- Jim</TD></TR></TABLE>
one of the things we did for last years fsae car was to wire 2 LEDs into the helmet. 1 for powerband, another for shift. since we only used 2 lights, we only needed 2 signals and a ground... aka headphone wire. the system worked alright, but the reflections off the inside of the helmet lens could get a little distracting.
Still, I think a steering column mounting would probably be more practical...

- Jim</TD></TR></TABLE>
one of the things we did for last years fsae car was to wire 2 LEDs into the helmet. 1 for powerband, another for shift. since we only used 2 lights, we only needed 2 signals and a ground... aka headphone wire. the system worked alright, but the reflections off the inside of the helmet lens could get a little distracting.
That's really not a bad idea. I wish my school had an FSAE program, but UNF's engineering program just isn't big enough (or funded well enough) for that kind of thing. I'd donate a kidney to get that kind car design experience, especially if its all paid for by the school.
- Jim
- Jim
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