Anyone weight a Type S in autocross trim.?
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Like topic says. Has anyone got a true curb weight for say autocrossing on electronic or truck scales? I hear the GTS Celicas weigh about 2400-2500 pounds.
Modified by DerangedEG at 8:56 AM 12/30/2003
Modified by DerangedEG at 8:56 AM 12/30/2003
In STS trim, my EP3 weighs in around 2650, and thats with just wheels and tires and a (heavy) rear sway bar, and I pulled out the spare and junk.
With aftermarket I/H/E and Coilovers, I would expect to drop around 50 more lbs or so.
Lightweight, fixed seats are supposed to become legal for STS in '04 too, which is a big weight saver, but with a price (comfort)
Im guessing a Type-S will come in around that neighborhood, too, since they almost weigh the same stock.
There's always the unthinkable removal of stereo and/or AC as well, and other auto-x classes allow you to do even more.
With aftermarket I/H/E and Coilovers, I would expect to drop around 50 more lbs or so.
Lightweight, fixed seats are supposed to become legal for STS in '04 too, which is a big weight saver, but with a price (comfort)
Im guessing a Type-S will come in around that neighborhood, too, since they almost weigh the same stock.
There's always the unthinkable removal of stereo and/or AC as well, and other auto-x classes allow you to do even more.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatch2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In STS trim, my EP3 weighs in around 2650, and thats with just wheels and tires and a (heavy) rear sway bar, and I pulled out the spare and junk.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What kinda of wheels and tires, I suppose ROTAs and some light weight seats etc. would help out alot. Too bad Honda doesn't have a sunroof delete option.!! Do you know if you change seats whether ot not you will get an airbag light because you diable the side airbags.?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What kinda of wheels and tires, I suppose ROTAs and some light weight seats etc. would help out alot. Too bad Honda doesn't have a sunroof delete option.!! Do you know if you change seats whether ot not you will get an airbag light because you diable the side airbags.?
My wheels are 11lbs each (Konig heliums, getting upgraded sometime in the near future to lighter, wider wheel$) and my tires are heavy *** Azenis. Overall each wheel/tire comes up to about 4lbs less than stock.
I have the regular seats, I think they total up to 20-something lbs less on the car. I dont know about removing the side-airbags, though.
I have just upgraded my suspension to JIC's and they weigh 12 lbs less in the front, and 2 lbs more in the rear (because of the camber kit).
It would be nice to get rid of the sunroof, or even make it a pop-up only without a motor, but rules are rules.
Another option nobody ever thinks of is a light-weight battery, transferred to the back. Its a totally legal way to drop another 15 lbs.
Shaving weight is not that noticeable peice by peice, but if you put a couple of people in the car, you'll notice the difference in accel, turning, braking, so you would think that if you could drop a person or two's weight you'd feel that much advantage, especially in braking and turning.
I have the regular seats, I think they total up to 20-something lbs less on the car. I dont know about removing the side-airbags, though.
I have just upgraded my suspension to JIC's and they weigh 12 lbs less in the front, and 2 lbs more in the rear (because of the camber kit).
It would be nice to get rid of the sunroof, or even make it a pop-up only without a motor, but rules are rules.
Another option nobody ever thinks of is a light-weight battery, transferred to the back. Its a totally legal way to drop another 15 lbs.
Shaving weight is not that noticeable peice by peice, but if you put a couple of people in the car, you'll notice the difference in accel, turning, braking, so you would think that if you could drop a person or two's weight you'd feel that much advantage, especially in braking and turning.
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Another option nobody ever thinks of is a light-weight battery, transferred to the back. Its a totally legal way to drop another 15 lbs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DerangedEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was going with the smaller battery. Do you know where to get a small lightweight one.?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Spoon Sports, T1R, and Batt have small batteries. check out http://www.aj-racing.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DerangedEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was going with the smaller battery. Do you know where to get a small lightweight one.?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Spoon Sports, T1R, and Batt have small batteries. check out http://www.aj-racing.com
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another option nobody ever thinks of is a light-weight battery, transferred to the back. Its a totally legal way to drop another 15 lbs.
Spoon Sports, T1R, and Batt have small batteries. check out http://www.aj-racing.com </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks dude.!
Spoon Sports, T1R, and Batt have small batteries. check out http://www.aj-racing.com </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks dude.!
A word of warning about the light-weight batteries:
The Dyna-Batt race battery is believed to be a re-labeled (and marked up) Hawker Genesis. The Hawker Genesis labels warn you not to remove the labels on their batteries, which would perhaps explain why the Dyna-Batt doesnt last as long.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm
The Dyna-Batt race battery is believed to be a re-labeled (and marked up) Hawker Genesis. The Hawker Genesis labels warn you not to remove the labels on their batteries, which would perhaps explain why the Dyna-Batt doesnt last as long.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm
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[QUOTE=hatch2k]A word of warning about the light-weight batteries:
The Dyna-Batt race battery is believed to be a re-labeled (and marked up) Hawker Genesis. The Hawker Genesis labels warn you not to remove the labels on their batteries, which would perhaps explain why the Dyna-Batt doesnt last as long.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm[/QUOTE]
Yeah I just spent about 30 minutes reading through all the information from that site. I am ordering the hawker for the trunk battery relocation I have sitting around. Do you know how much the stock Honda battery weighs? I know its smaller than that anchor Die Hard they have pictured there.
The Dyna-Batt race battery is believed to be a re-labeled (and marked up) Hawker Genesis. The Hawker Genesis labels warn you not to remove the labels on their batteries, which would perhaps explain why the Dyna-Batt doesnt last as long.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm[/QUOTE]
Yeah I just spent about 30 minutes reading through all the information from that site. I am ordering the hawker for the trunk battery relocation I have sitting around. Do you know how much the stock Honda battery weighs? I know its smaller than that anchor Die Hard they have pictured there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another option nobody ever thinks of is a light-weight battery, transferred to the back. Its a totally legal way to drop another 15 lbs.
Spoon Sports, T1R, and Batt have small batteries. check out http://www.aj-racing.com </TD></TR></TABLE>
And you add 5 lbs or more of wire putting it back there.
A small batt in the oem location is the best choice IMO. That way you don't lose your spare or room in the trunk. A batt in the trunk is not ideal for a daily driver, as most people run STS with their EP3/RSX.
Spoon Sports, T1R, and Batt have small batteries. check out http://www.aj-racing.com </TD></TR></TABLE>
And you add 5 lbs or more of wire putting it back there.
A small batt in the oem location is the best choice IMO. That way you don't lose your spare or room in the trunk. A batt in the trunk is not ideal for a daily driver, as most people run STS with their EP3/RSX.
I like that advice. The hatch space is vital for cooler/tool-chest/wheels-tires/chairs/canopy/umbrellas/numbers/helmets...thats what hatchbacks are for!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And you add 5 lbs or more of wire putting it back there.
A small batt in the oem location is the best choice IMO. That way you don't lose your spare or room in the trunk. A batt in the trunk is not ideal for a daily driver, as most people run STS with their EP3/RSX.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah you thought the same thing I did and then I read about how much those batt type batteries hate the heat. Apparently the engine heat significantly shortens their life cycle. Check out that link above.!
And you add 5 lbs or more of wire putting it back there.
A small batt in the oem location is the best choice IMO. That way you don't lose your spare or room in the trunk. A batt in the trunk is not ideal for a daily driver, as most people run STS with their EP3/RSX.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah you thought the same thing I did and then I read about how much those batt type batteries hate the heat. Apparently the engine heat significantly shortens their life cycle. Check out that link above.!
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