I just want to know what's you guys opinion on getting a stock body civic hatch with no interior into the 10's on the bottle. I currently ran a 11.7 at 122mph with ls/vtec 2.0 liter at carlsbad. Ive taken all I can from the car without cutting the body up. I wanna know what you guys think about gaining my goal and then cuting my car up. Thanks

 

Do able with your mph's. get the traction issue down and 10's are there/

 

the only thing is im trying to keep it street and adding wheelie bars and stuff seems to make people cringe at the thought of making that for a street car.

 

You don't need wheelie bars to run 10's at 122. Just a set of 26 in. slicks,very agreesive clutch and aftermarket axles should get you there. Also a a good suspension set up I have found skunk2 launch kits to work very well.

 

Got a link to get me to that website and read about the skunk2 setup bro?

 

How much nitrous are you running?

 

sounds like atleast 150

 

it coulda been alot less though..

my buddy went 11.50 on an 80 shot. (ls/vtec) in a crx. on 24.5's cutting 1.6 60ft

 

I've seen your hatch at the Q on your set up.I thought you were all motor when did you go on the bottle. get the skunk2 drag launch kit it works really well skunk2.com. you will find them there or inlinefour.com

 

When I run at Qualcom im usually on the motor. Theres really no comp there so why waste a good motor. For the guys that wanna know what the setup and shot is. Its a ls/vtec built and sleeved and bored to 2.0 all the bolt ons and a few trick v8 ideas. Im currently running 28/16 on the nitrous jetting which for my setup still runs a little rich with 440 injectors. Ive tried several injectors and the 440's seem to fit my setp perfect the nitrous blends in perfect. Almost feels like an all motor car with about 300 some to the wheel. Here is the link to the video if you guys wanna give good info on changes or some but the negativity you can keep thanks for all helpers. http://www.latinosmix.com/11sec.wmv

 

Progressive controller.

 

The bad thing about the progressive system is it taps the solenoids and eventually one will go out and there goes your motor. Maybe changing them ever so often but that will get expensive. Thanks anyway traction out the hole is what im looking for. An ideas to gain more power from what I got.

 

nice vid and song...

obie trice

 

I have read and seen that too, they make a new one thats all digital but it is real expensive. I also just noticed your jets, 28/16, I am not familiar with wet kit jet sizes. How much power is that? I assume this is a direct port system. I dont understand your need for 440's either. Have you ever tried a smaller fuel jet? If your looking for out of the whole the controller or a 2 stage would be the way to go IMO.

 

the need for the 440's is because with the fuel pressure needed to run the motor and then the nitrous goes way over the limit rich on the dyno. With the 440's the fuel pressure stay at 38 and the jetting is how we made it not so rich and gained the most power. The idea was to run 120 shot little rich so it would blend at anytime of the day or night. A bottle warmer is also used to keep the bottle temp up to around 1100 whatever the nitrous gauge is measured at cant remember. Ive had several setups on the bottle and for sure this one is the most reliable anytime weather ive had.

 

nice vid and car!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2civichatchbs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the only thing is im trying to keep it street and adding wheelie bars and stuff seems to make people cringe at the thought of making that for a street car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

quit worring about what others think.
As far as Progressive controllers, i agree, i think that they will help you, but they can make the system unreliable. I will be running a 2 stage set up on my non-street car, but a multi stage system works like a progressive controller if you think about it. I cant give you any more info on how to go faster cause you haven't told us what your set up is ( Motor, trans, susp, slick). Good luck

 

Just curious, are you launching with the nitrous or do you arm it after the launch?
I'm running a direct port system also and I'm having some traction problems too.
I'm not arming the nitous until right after I launch.

 

Complete run down on setup is.

84 mm bored ls block
11.5 compression JE pistons
eagle H beam rods
00 b16a head ported by self
crower springs and retainers
type r intake manifold
bug pack crank case ventalation
00 si tranny stock one legged
bogard dragon fly's 24.5 MT, circle skinnies in the rear
ground design race suspension in the rear
skunk 2 coilovers in the front
p28 ecu mugan program
MSD Digital 6
Jim fab traction bars
nos direct port kit jetting 28 nitrous 16 fuel
tuned at engineuity and motor built by me at Precision Machine.

If there are anymore question let me know willing to provide to helpers only.

 

Run less nitrous out and use a second stage or use a digital 7 and pull timing in first gear to slow the motor down. Nitrous controllers work fine you just need to buy a few rebuild kits to keep the seals from leaking. What header are you using?
also some type of LSD or spool would help you with some of you traction problems.

 

At the time of that race I was using a dc type r header. Which i do have a custom header tht gained 8 more HP than th one I ran that day. Its basically a hi tech replica with the piping getting bigger as it go 1.78 then 2 inches to 2.5 4 to 1 collector 3 inch outlet great for nitrous. This progressive system you guys talk about who makes it and around what price is it.

 

I use the NOS controller cost is 549.95 in summit catalog. NX and Dedenbear also make good controllers I'am not sure what the cost is on those.

 

Ive had really good luck with http://38.113.97.153/products/Schnitz/no05d.asp

This controller and high quality solonoids. Made over 50 runs and never lost a solonoid. This is on a big block chrysler making 700 hp on N20 alone.