Have tried to search,but couldn't find anything about it... I want some slotted and drilled discs in the front and the back,but there isn't anyone i can find who makes back for these cars(checked; EBC,MOVIT,Willwood,Mugen,Spoon)! Any ideas? I know it's not realy nessesary,but just for the looks of it...

And is the front bumper on the 98 itr,as wide/slim as the bumper on the 96-97 teg's? i've seen that Wings West has a lip for the 94-97's(Tuner Type 2) that has 2 holes in it that i can use to make airducts for front brake cooling...i don't want to cut in the orginal bumper,better to buy some aftermarket ****...

 

why do you want slotted/drilled discs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you want slotted/drilled discs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks. As mentioned in his post. *shrug*

 

I wonder if the brake cooling ducts are also for looks. He sounds confused.

 

There's nothing wrong with wanting a product for 'looks'.

But the drilled rotors will have a shorter service life than the stock variety.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder if the brake cooling ducts are also for looks. He sounds confused.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd have to assume so.. or maybe he's actually really smart. By increasing cooling he will decrease the increase in rotor temp caused by the decrease of thermal mass which would otherwise lead to an increase of rotor temp and an increased chance of brake system problems.

Oh, and the 94-97 bumper is shaped different than the 98-01. That's why that WW bumper thing is specific to 94-97. You can swap them, but you'll need to swap the headlights too.

My advice. Leave it alone and drive the car.

 

Agreed: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's nothing wrong with wanting a product for 'looks'.

But the drilled rotors will have a shorter service life than the stock variety.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have 45,9xx on my stock rotors, and plenty of very hard use!
Only shaved once at 23k... just a hair.

Skip the look and go with what works.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pretend-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And is the front bumper on the 98 itr,as wide/slim as the bumper on the 96-97 teg's? i've seen that Wings West has a lip for the 94-97's(Tuner Type 2) that has 2 holes in it that i can use to make airducts for front brake cooling...i don't want to cut in the orginal bumper,better to buy some aftermarket ****...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 98+ front bumper is different than 97.. therefore for ideal fitment you need a lip specific to 98+.. here is one I found w/holes you could use for brake ducts.

Keep in mind the Lip isn't your only option for mounting brake ducts...you could do them inside the bumper opening as well.

You like Drilled/slotted rotors..so I assume you like CF bling as well

http://seibon.com/Products/CFL...P.htm

 

Comptech makes rear cross drilled: http://solar.innercite.com/com....html

And slotted: http://solar.innercite.com/com....html


I love how on the bottom it says not for racing

 

I think drilled rotors do look cool. Dont have any myself, but I would like to see what they look like on a ITR.

I tirerack sells them for the ITR.

 

Dave-ROR is right... To get additional cooling will help on the brake length, Cold brakes bites best...I will use flexibel pipes from the lip and trough the plastic cover inside the fenders(don't know what it's called in english) pointing at the brakes...

(And as i'm sure you know, since you can begin to brake later into a curve on the track with cool brakes,the better laptimes you will get...)

In the back,it's not nessesary with so much cooling,stock is enough... But i hate it when it doesn't look alike in the front and the back...

That is also the reason why i want at least slotted rotors...More air,better cooling on both the rotors and the pads(since the slots draw air under the brakepads and cool them down)...

 

neuspeed also, ithink, makes em for your ride

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pretend-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(since the slots draw air under the brakepads and cool them down)...</TD></TR></TABLE>

incorrect.

if you want better cooling, then route proper brake ducting to the *center* of the rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pretend-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> pointing at the brakes... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Duct them to the center of the rotors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is also the reason why i want at least slotted rotors...More air,better cooling on both the rotors and the pads(since the slots draw air under the brakepads and cool them down)...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Slotting rotors has nothing to do with cooling. In fact, it'll actually provide less thermal mass and therefore will dissipate and hold less heat from the pads/calipers than stock rotors will. Rotors cool through vents. brake ducts should force air through the vents. Slotted rotors do sweep the pads though, good for rally, not all that useful IMO for HPDE/track day cars. Cross drilled serves no purpose on an ITR that see practically any use of the car you can think of (IMO).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But the drilled rotors will have a shorter service life than the stock variety.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not based on my experience.

On my other, heavily-tracked car, I have used solid-faced rotors, drilled rotors, and slotted rotors. There was no significant difference in service life from one kind to another.

I have heard people say that drilled rotors crack easily, but I have cracked all three kinds after roughly equal amounts of use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pretend-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cold brakes bites best...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, sort of. Overheated brakes will fade, but moderately aggressive pads do not bite well when they're cold, you need to heat them up.

I'd re-read Dave's last comments. Everything he said is spot-on.

 

**** slotted and drilled discs, that's for icy hot stunnaz.
I changed out my stock rotors with some cheap *** ones earlier this year and they are doing an excellent job of stopping, just get a set of good pads and some fresh fluid and you're set. Another good tip is to remove the dust shields in the front to aid in cooling the discs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave-ROR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Slotted rotors do sweep the pads though, good for rally...</TD></TR></TABLE>

And used on most cars in many, many professional racing series - JGTC, Aussie V8 supercars, German Touring cars, FIA European Touring and GT... I could go on. The slotted rotors obviousley are performing some funtion that these race teams feel are beneficial.

Slotted rotors are not bling. Granted, probably not necessary for any of us, but they will do no harm.

Haven't we had this conversation before?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And used on most cars in many, many professional racing series - JGTC, Aussie V8 supercars, German Touring cars, FIA European Touring and GT... I could go on. The slotted rotors obviousley are performing some funtion that these race teams feel are beneficial.

Slotted rotors are not bling. Granted, probably not necessary for any of us, but they will do no harm.

Haven't we had this conversation before? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Instead of this,"perpetuating the argument" why not point out WHY? and WHAT? Negative and/or positive? Which would help out much more than perpetuating the "this vs. that" rotor dilemma forever...

How about telling people that while slotted rotors may allow for positive results with some/multiple race applications in certain respects (which many times include brand new pre seasoned rotors and pre bedded pads for each race) that they may Not provide the same results for average daily use and may just create for premature pad wear or otherwise?

Anyone can play the Devil's advocate game. But, explaining the reasoning Why, EVERY TIME is where it counts to the new folks who don't yet understand.


Sorry if I rambled or am unclear. But, I too am sick of this argument. Especially if the Pro's and Con's aren't always laid out for the poster with the query.

 

I was simply pointing out some facts that nobody had mentioned and stating my opinion - both of which I thought are welcome here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they may Not provide the same results for average daily use and may just create for premature pad wear or otherwise?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I already mentioned that in my experience, I have gotten the same results in terms of rotor life among the different types of rotor (solid face, slotted, drilled). I should also mention that I have gotten the same results in terms of stopping power as well as brake pad wear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was simply pointing out some facts that nobody had mentioned and stating my opinion - both of which I thought are welcome here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uggh Jeezuz, why do you always have to go on the defensive?

It's not against you in particular, (I guess unfortunately I quoted you.) It's that Everyone jumps on some sort of bandwagon with rotors and whatnot. And you seemed to take it to the next step defensive wise.

But, why not just clearly mention that different "RACE" conditions of course yield different results and of course Include the obvious variables, instead of eluding to cross drilled and or slotted rotors as being just as functional for daily as in a race series?

At least, that's what I got and get when I see you continually attempting to defend cross drilling and slotting for whatever reason. (Again, the latter opinion is Not a personal attack, just a personal observation when reading your multiple defense on the same topic.)

Don't take me wrong Flux.


A.

 

cobalt... or just leave it alone.

D has the ghetto fab air ducts and they are swwweeet

 

If you want slotted and drilled roaters AND mad bling look at Brembo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was simply pointing out some facts that nobody had mentioned and stating my opinion - both of which I thought are welcome here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Flux..

1st, I never said they were bling.
2nd, all those series you mentioned used **OVERSIZED** rotors to offset the negatives of using slotted rotors. He isn't going to so they are going to be a negative in his case. Period.
3rd, why must we always have this convo when the answers are ALWAYS the same?!?!

Ken: The one set of slotted rotors I used were ****, had tons of uneven pad deposits (a problem I never have with solid rotors) and cracked during my first track event with them. I left them on the car until I did another track event. Then we decided to use them to see if we could turn them.. you can.. you just break a few bits (for future seaches)