Is this bad? it sits VERY close. It might actually be touching. Sorry about the bad pics. I can take some better pics later on.





So much for having an intake

 

grind off some webbing on the block,no big deal.if you don't want to do that get you another manifold.but alot of people grind the
webbing.my buddy had to do the same thing
on his 2k si.

 

Why is your block red?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by psi420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is your block red?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's orange. The shop I took it to paints it orange. It's their trademark

Is it bad if I leave it the way it is? It bolts up fine...

 

what manifold is that? i've never seen that

but yeah, you an do some shaving/filing around the block there... or perhaps clocking it more will give you a little more clearence

 

let me guess, hookups in upland did that swap right? and why do you run you oilline between the manifold runners? thats probably not safe.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hoosier Daddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's orange. The shop I took it to paints it orange. It's their trademark

Is it bad if I leave it the way it is? It bolts up fine...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

How much of the web can I shave (parts that stick out). It's a HKS manifold, the oil line is just laying there because the motor isn't fully assembled yet. NRG Tech built the bottom end.

 

deff the trade mark of nrg tech, mines the same way!

 

why dont you flip the turbo around (comp on drivers side). just an idea

 

The orange paint is really ghey, IMO.

 

i like the orange!! reiterates the fact that the b-series is small block of today

 

I guess you will be able to see any oil that may be on the block later down the line

 

You should be fine with it that close, or even if it's touching, the turbo should move with the engine if it doesn't you have a problem. IMO i would flip the turbo around (drag style) so the compressor is on the drivers side, it will free up some room and make it so you don't have to run a 90 degree bend in you oil feed (it's not good to have it the way you do now)

 

Doesn't look like you have any of the top bolts in holding the manifold on. Even though your just test fitting I would still tq down a couple of top bolts, it may pull it out from the block a little.

 

Thanks for the input guys

How far can I shave the webbing before making a hole in the block?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hoosier Daddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the input guys

How far can I shave the webbing before making a hole in the block? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i would say that grinding of the block isn't neccessary. as long as it isn't rubbing. and for an intake idea, you could do radius cuts and welds to get around that hump without grinding anything off, the intake flange just makes it all the more easier bro

 

i hope to hell u change your oil return and feed lines.. the oil aint gonna drain from that angle!

 

The oil lines worked great. The return line is a little too long now for some reason, so I'm going to have to do something about that. It used to be straight, and almost vertical. the turbo does touch the block

I don't know why B20's are so much different than B18's.

 

Anyone know how much I can dremel that part of the block before making a hole in it. It's not exactly the webbing...

 

Like someone mentioned earlier you should put on a couple of bolts on and torque them down tight. Believe me, it makes a big difference in the postion of the turbo in relation to the block. You could some valuable mm's . Also, you could notch the little edge of the block right below the engine code stamp to make room for an intake.

 

I suggest a spacer to put in between the turbo.

Manifold | Spacer | Turbo

I've seen someone on this board do it, Maybe NRG can make you a jig from a solid metal plate w/holes and you might have to get longer screws. Ill try and find a pic so you know what Im talking about.

Edit: Something to this effect, I mean we want to move it a drop right?




Modified by FredoSP at 2:49 AM 12/29/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FredoSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suggest a spacer to put in between the turbo.

Manifold | Spacer | Turbo

I've seen someone on this board do it, Mayeb NRG can make you a solid metal plate w/holes and you might have to get longer screws. Ill try and find a pic so you know what Im talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great idea! Anybody know if these are made? Either that or a spacer that would go between the manifold and head? Here's a pic (thanks John)



Only bad thing about that is I will probably need extended exhaust manifold studs.

Thanks


Modified by Hoosier Daddy at 5:40 AM 12/29/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rah Rah &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like someone mentioned earlier you should put on a couple of bolts on and torque them down tight. Believe me, it makes a big difference in the postion of the turbo in relation to the block. You could some valuable mm's . Also, you could notch the little edge of the block right below the engine code stamp to make room for an intake. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The manifold is now bolted on. It sits flush but the turbo still touches the block. It all fits great but it's touching. I don't know how bad that is...

 

I'm just thowing an idea out there because I don't know for sure if this would be a problem but with heat expansion, the turbo sitting that close may be bad.

I would grind some away so there is about a 1/8 inch gap between turbo and block. I had to grind just a bit away also to make it fit perfect and also give a little clearance.

SOme people have had to grind the **** out of the block and I mean bad. Enough to even take off some of the B18C or B16 etc... stamping on them. A little grinding for clearance won't hurt.

 

The problem is where it's touching the block. I've never seen anyone grind that area before. The block codee only gets in the way of an intake.