OK, the subject had been broached before but would like to "show and ask" about this:

I have a b18c JDM .025 over motor with CTR pistons and a Portflow prepped b18c5 head that just today bolted on with OEM o.6 mm headgasket, and when I tried to trial turn the cams clearly ran into interference.

Toda B cams!

Aren't these supposed to be a by the book "go" proposition?

What about a 1.0 mm headgasket, like maybe Cometic??

Obviously, everybody's application may vary but just a little puzzled as essentially no surface removed from head or block deck....


Modified by Ruby Civic at 12:01 AM 12/27/2003


Modified by Ruby Civic at 12:02 AM 12/27/2003

 

What kind of valves are you running with that portflow head? Also, did you have portflow mill the head? How were your cam gears adjusted when you went with your trial? Did you have portflow do any chamber work to your head? Toda B cams aren't that big, but the CTR pistons have got a pretty large dome. If you're running into clearance issues, I would definitely suggest a thicker head gasket.

 

no head not milled and reused the stock OEM valves with no milling of the head deck, or mating surface

 

good question... someone help this guy

 

something is wrong.....

maybe cams aren't lined up proper like....
maybe you have everything 180 degrees off...

don't know with out seeing the engine!

 

you didnt try to turn the cams W/O the timing belt on did you?

 

yea, good point...well, I have cylinder #1 at TDC, the cams are keyed properly on skunk2 cam gears with the "dots" pointed at one another as per manual.

when i turn the cam gears around, they reach a point on both the intake and exhaust sides where they bind and won't advance - like contact between valve and piston. i can rotate the cams clockwise and counterclockwise about 30 degrees or so before they bind up, and they rotate easily through this range but then they stop as i said.

i used a mix of sae 30 oil and lucas assembly lube....

maybe no easy answer, just wondering if anybody could help??

 

yes, i did try to turn the cams without the timing belt - bad move??

 

could it be as simple as that is where natural interference btwn piston and valve would occur and that if the crank rotated it would all be clear? if so i can see why you want a great timing belt as any slippage would be disaster even at low rpms

i know that is a nube question, but only the second time i have put cams in and want it to be right - everybody's stories kina scared me

sorry if the questions seem naive

 

Its like when you are jumping rope.
Theres a system involved. If you dont jump, the rope hits your feet.
Leave the pistons in place and the valves will hit with stock cams.
These things are called interference motors because that is possible.
Non-interference motors the valves will never touch the pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its like when you are jumping rope.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

image in brain... steve jumping rope... D laughs out loud. and takes another drink.

 

yea, sorry if the question seemed a bit dumb, i think that north wind whipping into the garage musta froze my brain

thanks for the confirm tho steve

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ruby Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, i did try to turn the cams without the timing belt - bad move??</TD></TR></TABLE>

&lt;-----scratches head. i think i will leave computer now.

 

sounds crazy, doesn't it....you had to be there as i was having a devil of a problem with a stripping tensioner bolt....do not use 12 pt. sockets with these which is obvious also!!