I am pretty happy with my engine management setup...
310cc injectors (550s are waiting)
since i only have 310's i set my revlimit to 6500 which is about where they max out. full-throttle launch set to 3000 (mostly to rev at riceboys not for launching
)
P28 ECU (no IAB control, they are left open)
- obd2-1 conversion harness
- "269" rom which is JDM P72.
- disabled o2 heater
- disabled knock sensor
- edit fuel/ignition/boost/revlimits with uberdata 1.2
Techedge 1.0 Wideband o2 sensor
homemade narrowband converter fed into P28 o2 sensor input
stock fuel pump
get 25+ mpg daily driving. my car starts idles, drives, boosts like stock (few occasional glitches but much better than previous setup)
cruisin down the highway, hanging in stoich no sweat:

boostin 7psi no sweat, 0.4 degrees retard per psi:
more pics at http://www.falcongsr.com/pictures/albums/integra
since i only have 310's i set my revlimit to 6500 which is about where they max out. full-throttle launch set to 3000 (mostly to rev at riceboys not for launching
)P28 ECU (no IAB control, they are left open)
- obd2-1 conversion harness
- "269" rom which is JDM P72.
- disabled o2 heater
- disabled knock sensor
- edit fuel/ignition/boost/revlimits with uberdata 1.2
Techedge 1.0 Wideband o2 sensor
homemade narrowband converter fed into P28 o2 sensor input
stock fuel pump
get 25+ mpg daily driving. my car starts idles, drives, boosts like stock (few occasional glitches but much better than previous setup)
cruisin down the highway, hanging in stoich no sweat:

boostin 7psi no sweat, 0.4 degrees retard per psi:
more pics at http://www.falcongsr.com/pictures/albums/integra
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigwig »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i see the numbers as 14.7(top) and 12.3(bottom)...the 14.7 is more scary than the 12.3/12.8</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the 14.7 is while crusing in closed loop which is OEM like, but I see 12.8 @ 7psi w/ only .4 degrees retard per lb which give me chills
Well the 14.7 is while crusing in closed loop which is OEM like, but I see 12.8 @ 7psi w/ only .4 degrees retard per lb which give me chills
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTC_CiViC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but I see 12.8 @ 7psi w/ only .4 degrees retard per lb which give me chills
</TD></TR></TABLE>
why? its typically closer to 11:1 but .4 degrees retard is relative. its actually the same absolute advance i was running with the aem ems but with .7 degrees retard per lb, but the ems had much more advance in vacuum/0psi.
but I see 12.8 @ 7psi w/ only .4 degrees retard per lb which give me chills
</TD></TR></TABLE>why? its typically closer to 11:1 but .4 degrees retard is relative. its actually the same absolute advance i was running with the aem ems but with .7 degrees retard per lb, but the ems had much more advance in vacuum/0psi.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why? its typically closer to 11:1 but .4 degrees retard is relative. its actually the same absolute advance i was running with the aem ems but with .7 degrees retard per lb, but the ems had much more advance in vacuum/0psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Assuming you have the dizzy @ the stock 14 or 16 degrees w/e it is, .4 per psi has you running almost 24* total timing @ 7psi (or at least it does when I plug the numbers into my Uberdata), which is a alot of timing for a stock motor on boost, especially considering the added heat of 12.8:1 A/F.. but that's just me, maybe i'm just too conservative. I prefer the area of 18-19* on the top side, numbers I picked up from Frank @ SFP and a couple other tuners right here.
why? its typically closer to 11:1 but .4 degrees retard is relative. its actually the same absolute advance i was running with the aem ems but with .7 degrees retard per lb, but the ems had much more advance in vacuum/0psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Assuming you have the dizzy @ the stock 14 or 16 degrees w/e it is, .4 per psi has you running almost 24* total timing @ 7psi (or at least it does when I plug the numbers into my Uberdata), which is a alot of timing for a stock motor on boost, especially considering the added heat of 12.8:1 A/F.. but that's just me, maybe i'm just too conservative. I prefer the area of 18-19* on the top side, numbers I picked up from Frank @ SFP and a couple other tuners right here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">considering stock gsr's are around 31degrees advance at WOT...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude.. stock GS-R's aren't swinging 7psi or 250whp
I dunno, I say we have some tuners chime in here and give us ther insight
Dude.. stock GS-R's aren't swinging 7psi or 250whp

I dunno, I say we have some tuners chime in here and give us ther insight
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am running around 26 degrees advance at 7psi for the record. sounds conservative to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I'm running 19 degrees advance @ 6psi (Hondata), and it made 244whp with it, from what I gather, that's a more mildy conservative/avearge setup.
Well, I'm running 19 degrees advance @ 6psi (Hondata), and it made 244whp with it, from what I gather, that's a more mildy conservative/avearge setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTC_CiViC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
7psi w/ only .4 degrees retard per lb which give me chills
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't see the sleeves lasting much longer in that car.
7psi w/ only .4 degrees retard per lb which give me chills
</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't see the sleeves lasting much longer in that car.
with my internal wastegate, i had all sorts of problems with boost spiking with advance that low.
so i brought it up to more reasonable numbers. i listen to my knock sensor with a op amp circuit, and i dont hear any detonation, nor did i see any plotted with the aem ems.
so i brought it up to more reasonable numbers. i listen to my knock sensor with a op amp circuit, and i dont hear any detonation, nor did i see any plotted with the aem ems.
I am in no way a tuner. But at 7psi i would be running about .6/.7 degrees retard per lb .7 puts you at about 20 degrees total and .6 about 22degrees total. Id probably run .6 because you are only boosting 7psi max. once again im not a tuner and im generally a moron.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Crow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't see the sleeves lasting much longer in that car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you dont see my sleeves lasting much longer? are you a psychic? do you have previous experience to share? what is this speculative blabber? i guess my rings are going to be fine but my sleeves are going to crack?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am in no way a tuner. But at 7psi i would be running about .6/.7 degrees retard per lb .7 puts you at about 20 degrees total and .6 about 22degrees total. Id probably run .6 because you are only boosting 7psi max.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the stock UDSM GSR runs 31 degrees advance at WOT, and i am pushing 7psi, then if i used 0.7deg retard per psi that woudl be 31-4.9 = 26 degrees advance.
how do you get down to 20 degrees?
I don't see the sleeves lasting much longer in that car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>you dont see my sleeves lasting much longer? are you a psychic? do you have previous experience to share? what is this speculative blabber? i guess my rings are going to be fine but my sleeves are going to crack?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am in no way a tuner. But at 7psi i would be running about .6/.7 degrees retard per lb .7 puts you at about 20 degrees total and .6 about 22degrees total. Id probably run .6 because you are only boosting 7psi max.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if the stock UDSM GSR runs 31 degrees advance at WOT, and i am pushing 7psi, then if i used 0.7deg retard per psi that woudl be 31-4.9 = 26 degrees advance.
how do you get down to 20 degrees?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTC_CiViC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, I'm running 19 degrees advance @ 6psi (Hondata), and it made 244whp with it, from what I gather, that's a more mildy conservative/avearge setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats is very conservative IMO...
Well, I'm running 19 degrees advance @ 6psi (Hondata), and it made 244whp with it, from what I gather, that's a more mildy conservative/avearge setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats is very conservative IMO...


