I finally strated on my B20 VTEC build up. My goal is 200whp. I wanted to know what people think about the daily driving reliabilty of this also. I'm using:

Block
-B20 block unsleeved
-JE 11.5:1 or IB 11.8:1 pistons
-Eagle rods
-Endyn Z10 girdle
-OEM bearings and thrusts and headgasket
-balanced crank
-Endyn breather kit
-Golden Eagle LS/VTEC conversion
-Full-Race.com dowel pins

Head
-GSR
-Skunk2 springs, valves, and retainers
-Type R manifold
-Type R cams
-DH Racing 65mm TB

This car is my daily driver so I need this motor to be reliable. I don't plan on revving past 8200. I have a chipped P28 with a redline of 8500. Does this sound like a good reliable setup? I'm not going to be beating on the acr everyday but I will take it to the track every now and then.

 

sounds good to me! I'll be running a bit more agressive set up for street/track use. I can assure you that you'll be fine with what you have. You should be able to hit 200whp with the ITR cams- just tune it right

 

Yea, I forgot to mention that I'm using the AEBS manifold not the ITR since it can't be used on the GSR head. I'm building 2 motors and I was thinking about the other head. I hope it runs for a long time.

 

Skip on the Eagle rods. They are not necessary for a NA street motor.

Just use the stock rods, use APR rod bolts, get them shotpeened, and then machined for the JE pistons.

Good luck...


Modified by garth at 10:13 AM 12/23/2003

 

You'll get 200 whp easy... But I would advise you to sleeve the block. We built a B20 for the second last Honda Challenge race at Infinion. We used the Eagle rods and Endyne 13.0 to 1 compression pistons. Skunk II Stage 3 cams etc. We got 253whp. Ran great for one weekend. Ran away from the rest of the field, then split the block in 2 & 3 cyl walls. You gotta sleeve the B20 Block! or use a B18C block.
We were lucky we caught it before we did some real damage.
Good Luck.

Kiwi

 

B20/LS rods are really weak. The rod bolts stretch at high RPM's. That's why I'm going with eagle.

 

I've heard of the blocks splitting too. The only times I've heard it is like in your case, at really high compression. I'm rethinking about using 10.5:1 compression pistons now so I won't split the sleeves, will 11.5:1 split sleeves?

 

Hindsight is always 20/20 but since we had our problem, I've heard of bone stock B20's Splitting bores...
I guess the B20 Blocks are just weak. right where the cylinders come together.
10.5 compression should be ok? but I would never do it again. If you sleve the block you wont have any problems. If you dont??? who knows?
Kiwi

 

Yea I know it would be bullet proof almost. I just don't have that much money to gewt it sleeved and I can't have too long of downtime.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard of the blocks splitting too. The only times I've heard it is like in your case, at really high compression. I'm rethinking about using 10.5:1 compression pistons now so I won't split the sleeves, will 11.5:1 split sleeves?</TD></TR></TABLE>............

you'll be fine at 11.5:1 compression.. be sure you get that beast tuned tho' and your set up looks good also, you should be able to hit your mark, i would port the head also

 

I hope so, I want to keep up my compression. Wouldn't the Endyn breather kit release the crankcase pressure thus helping to keep the sleeves from splitting? That's what I've always thought it did.

 

Good question.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KIWI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll get 200 whp easy... But I would advise you to sleeve the block. We built a B20 for the second last Honda Challenge race at Infinion. We used the Eagle rods and Endyne 13.0 to 1 compression pistons. Skunk II Stage 3 cams etc. We got 253whp. Ran great for one weekend. Ran away from the rest of the field, then split the block in 2 & 3 cyl walls. You gotta sleeve the B20 Block! or use a B18C block.
We were lucky we caught it before we did some real damage.
Good Luck.

Kiwi</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's right- sustained high RPMs will cause the sleeves to crack. If you're drag racing you can just about get away with anything. I'll bet you were using the B20 crank in your motor. If you're building for road course you must use the GSR crank. I would not sleeve the motor, as I have heard time and time again about the sleeves dropping- I might be a little dumb here, but I'm not going to spend 700 to sleeve the block and have it still go to ****.

 

Yea, this is a street car I'm building and it won't see high RPM's too much. I decided that since I'm going to use the Type R cams I'll just use the GSR valvetrain since the motor won't see anything over 7500-8000 RPM's and the GSR valvetrain is good tio 8200 easy. I may take this to the track a few times but nothing that will keep high RPM's for over a few seconds. I hope this works great. Thanks for all your help.

 

Hey whats up i got a B20z and im thinking of going Vtec im thinkin of picking up a Type R head and going all out with parts and stuff i already have spoon cams and cam gears and a skunk2 manifold what else should i do to get the best results and the safest end result. is there any tips i can get on where a good place to get some of the stuff done in northern california?

thanks guys ill be sure to let you know what i come out with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I finally strated on my B20 VTEC build up. My goal is 200whp. I wanted to know what people think about the daily driving reliabilty of this also. I'm using:

Block
-B20 block unsleeved
-JE 11.5:1 or IB 11.8:1 pistons
-Eagle rods
-Endyn Z10 girdle
-OEM bearings and thrusts and headgasket
-balanced crank
-Endyn breather kit
-Golden Eagle LS/VTEC conversion
-Full-Race.com dowel pins

Head
-GSR
-Skunk2 springs, valves, and retainers
-Type R manifold
-Type R cams
-DH Racing 65mm TB

This car is my daily driver so I need this motor to be reliable. I don't plan on revving past 8200. I have a chipped P28 with a redline of 8500. Does this sound like a good reliable setup? I'm not going to be beating on the acr everyday but I will take it to the track every now and then.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very close to my previous setup. You pretty much covered everything you need besides decent header (jdm 4-1 will do), camgears, fpr, fuel pump, and vafc or hondata. My setup made 200+ whp and was my daily driver. I put 45 miles on it everyday till I sold it. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

How did your b20 set up come out? Reading all these stories are making me wonder what the actual outcome will be for my set up.
I am about to swap the motor on my 00 EX and am doing a similar swap as you:
B20Z/B16A2 head
Eagle rods
Arias 11.5:1 corrected to 11:1 with b16 head
Skunk2 stage 2 cams, valve train and head port
Megan cam gears
DC 4to 1 headers
Fuel regulator
Skunk chip

After hearing all the stories, I am concerned about the sleeves, aside from pistons and rods, the block is pretty stock. This will also be my daily driver, but I drive about 70 miles each way. Just bassically want to know how it worked out and if you have other tips you have found on the way to keep it reliable (except re-sleeving).

 

hope you daily drivers out there know that Cali suxs on octain unless you have race mixture...

 

teh problem with b20's is the fact that they do not have 4 seperate sleeves like all of hte other honda b series engines. they have seperate 1 and 4 cylinder sleeves but 2&3 are 1 piece. there is very little room for anything inbetween the 2&3 cylinders. that is why it is not reccomended to bore over 84.5mm on a b20 and still expect it to hold up. There are actually some companies that refuse to sleeve a b20 because of the fact that they have a 1 piece 2&3 sleeve

 

not to hijack anything, who or what is the best way to brace this block then do you think? i am also building a b20 vtec soon for my 95' hatch