ecu blinking?
Its gonna blow up, throw it away. Jk, its throwing codes.
Code 16 - Fuel Injector
Code 16 is probably the Main Relay, however it could still mean a bad Injector, Resistor Box tho.
Most failures occur, when the weather starts heating-up for the summer...
If the car refuses to start, but "turns over" on a hot day, try opening the doors/windows, and let the interior cool down. "Then try starting again". May not work all the time, but worth a try anyway. Also, would help in troubleshooting the prob, if it does start. Another place to look is the ECT sensor, refer to the above
Code 20 - Electric Load Detector
First make sure you have a good battery....
Open the Main Fuse box lid (Right side shock tower).
Disconnect the 3 point connector, from the ELD unit. (Follow the harraness that runs through the box).
With the ignition switch ON, there should be battery voltage between the BLK/YEL(+) and BLK(-) terminals.
If there is no voltage, check for:
Blown No. 14 (10A) fuse in the dash fuse box.
An open in the BLK/YEL(+) wire between the dash fuse box and the main fuse box.
Pour ground (G201)
If there is voltage then goto the next step.....
Check for voltage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON. There should
be approximately 5V.
If the voltage(5V) is not specified, check the alternator control system.
If the voltage is as specified then goto next step.....
Connect the 3 - Point Connector to the ELD unit.
Check for volatage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground, with the ignition switch ON and turn on the
headlight low beam's.
There should be approximately 2V.
If the voltage(2V) is not specified, replace the main fuse box (ELD unit is not available separately)
If the voltage is as specified above, ELD unit is OK.
Code 16 - Fuel Injector
Code 16 is probably the Main Relay, however it could still mean a bad Injector, Resistor Box tho.
Most failures occur, when the weather starts heating-up for the summer...
If the car refuses to start, but "turns over" on a hot day, try opening the doors/windows, and let the interior cool down. "Then try starting again". May not work all the time, but worth a try anyway. Also, would help in troubleshooting the prob, if it does start. Another place to look is the ECT sensor, refer to the above
Code 20 - Electric Load Detector
First make sure you have a good battery....
Open the Main Fuse box lid (Right side shock tower).
Disconnect the 3 point connector, from the ELD unit. (Follow the harraness that runs through the box).
With the ignition switch ON, there should be battery voltage between the BLK/YEL(+) and BLK(-) terminals.
If there is no voltage, check for:
Blown No. 14 (10A) fuse in the dash fuse box.
An open in the BLK/YEL(+) wire between the dash fuse box and the main fuse box.
Pour ground (G201)
If there is voltage then goto the next step.....
Check for voltage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON. There should
be approximately 5V.
If the voltage(5V) is not specified, check the alternator control system.
If the voltage is as specified then goto next step.....
Connect the 3 - Point Connector to the ELD unit.
Check for volatage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground, with the ignition switch ON and turn on the
headlight low beam's.
There should be approximately 2V.
If the voltage(2V) is not specified, replace the main fuse box (ELD unit is not available separately)
If the voltage is as specified above, ELD unit is OK.
yeah i think is started when i plugged in the new blower motor... only turns on when i turn the climate control to # 4 what happen to 1,2,3 and blows really slow? and my right arrow on the cluster stays on when the blower is on?
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allm0torGSR
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Apr 30, 2004 05:10 PM
pokemon
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jul 26, 2003 09:24 AM



