I have a gsr swap in my hatch, and it burns almost more oil than gas (not literally), about a quart every tank of gas in cold weather, or a quart every 100 miles in the summer heat...

The piston rings are more than likely the culprit, as I replaced everything in the head a year ago when I burned up some valves (Check THIS out https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=380113) and it still burns oil (it has been burning oil constantly for over 2 years, I just drive around with a case of oil in the back). So, now that I am in germany and away from my car for a few months, I am going to have the block rebuilt and have my car shipped out here (August 1, 2004 is the deadline for having my car here).

My plans for the engine consist of a built block, with a stock head, and stock bolt ons (I have stock gsr intake, header, cat, and exhaust). Call me crazy, but this is my goal for the time being, a built top end is in the hatches future but that will not get done until august 2005 when I leave germany and come back to the states. This will give me a solid platform to work with, as right now something could break on the motor at any given time (its 10 years old for crying out loud, and has been abused a little too much...). Then I will be able to focus on the hatches suspension and begin repairing the wrecked Ninja 250 (see sig)...

Now I plan to start "Operation Red Hatch" ASAP. I just gotta wait for careawholelot to take the car to the ref for me and do what has to be done to make it pass, so I get my shiny BAR sticker. Then I'll have him hit the dyno for the hell of it, just so I can see how shitty the #'s really are......maybe that will explain why my 1/4 times are so slow (again see sig)... Once all that stuff is finished the motors coming out and the block is going to either RS Machines or Import Builders, right now I'm leaning towards RS.

resleeve the block and bore to 85mm
84.5 or 85mm 12:1 compression forged pistons
forged rods
arp rod bolts and head studs
dh-racing pulley
new pumps, bearings, seals, etc.
micro polish crank
assembly
balancing
send oil pan off to get baffled (seen it advertised by someone on this board)

fuel pump of unknown size
AEM fuel pressure regulator
RC injectors of an unknown size
Hondata w/good tuning

Now realistically (sp?) this motor is not very much different from a stock gst motor, as all the bolt ons are oem gsr. The main difference is the compression being bumped up 2pts and the displacement being incresed .2L, and the crank, pulley, and flywheel are lighter than stock, so that should free up some hp in comparison to a stock gsr motor. I heard that for every pt of compression there is a 5% hp increase, and I have seen stock cars gain hp from the hondata, so I am wondering if 170whp is attainable with this exact setup? Dont stock gsrs have 150whp stock (obd-1)?


Modified by redman223 at 8:33 AM 1/5/2004

 

Good for much more than 170whp depending on the tuner. That's pretty big compression, and as long as you can control it, you should see more gains. Cams will be the biggest thing, so think about picking up an ITR/CTR set. Cheap and reliable.

 

450's wouldnt be my choice i'd stick with 310's or 340's?? ( if they make them) 450's just seem on the tad big side but hey if you got hondata you can always tune it

..... my friend had a knife edged b16 crank in his b16 ( duh ) and after about 15- 18k miles he spun bearings 1 , 4 maybe it was unrealated to the knife edge but he did have honda OEM bearings and he plastigauged everything 3 times.....

 

I read something a long time ago saying that in our cars we can use the injectors from one of the older turbo talons or elcipses and that they were 450cc and you can pick them up used for around $40 and send them to RC and they will blueprint them for $100 and you got some new 450cc injectors at a discount price The hondata is going in definently.

The only problem I can see is driving the car from my house to the tuner after the engine install when I first fire it up, I guess to keep detonation away I can pick up some 100 octane from the track and use that to get to the tuner, then have them tune it for 91 octane, by draining the rest of the gas out of the tank and filling it up with 91 octane in gas cans.


Modified by redman223 at 10:34 PM 1/4/2004

 

This will be my fuel system question post.

Ok, so I am reconsidering the whole DSM 450cc injector thing and am going to go with the regular RC set up, the question is which size should I get? I did alot of searching and have noticed that 310's seem to be the injector of choice for NA people, but alot of them are 1.8L, so that makes me wonder which size I should get? In the distant future (2 years max) I am going to have the top end fully built with P&P (if I did it today it would be done at Alaniz but who knows who could come along in 2 whole years) and at the moment Skunk2 Stage 2 cams and valvetrain look to be the cams that I want to run, so would 310's be big enough? Or should I look into 370's or 440's??? Remember I will be using hondata.

Also, I am in a bind over the fuel pump. Which size should I get? I read that the stock civic pump is only 79lph (maybe thats why the car runs so slow?)? And that the stock ingegra pump is 135lph? So should I just go with the 195, or go all out and just get the 255? This car is staying a normally aspirated daily driven street car. Which brand should I get when it comes to the fuel pump also, as I can think of only 2 at the moment, walbro and holley?

Now for the rest of the fuel system, I was just going to go with the AEM fpr and the fuel rail. Now I am almost positive that I do not need the fuel rail, but I could be mistaken...so please enlighten me, as I am up for suggestions. I was also going to get an AEM fuel filter, it has a replaceable element inside so it should be cheaper to replace plus it has the whole bling factor to it.

I am going to order all this stuff on or around January 15...