No Oil + Racing = Failure (w/ Pics)
First, the pics:


When I took the end cap off, this is what was left. The oil pick-up screen had several pieces of metal in it...


Endcap of the number 2 rod.

My question is, do you think it's possible to just put another bearing on this and put it back together. Looking at the endcap, it IS scored a tiny bit, but, the other's look similar.
Thoughts?
Background for those who don't know:
Friend lent me his car to race. He didn't put any oil in the engine. I raced it. The end.


When I took the end cap off, this is what was left. The oil pick-up screen had several pieces of metal in it...


Endcap of the number 2 rod.

My question is, do you think it's possible to just put another bearing on this and put it back together. Looking at the endcap, it IS scored a tiny bit, but, the other's look similar.
Thoughts?
Background for those who don't know:
Friend lent me his car to race. He didn't put any oil in the engine. I raced it. The end.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by virginia_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its history. New motor time. You need to check your oil more frequently.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's his friends car. Oh damn that sucks!!
It's his friends car. Oh damn that sucks!!
You could send the block away and get the journals rebored to the point where the scoring is gone. You would then need oversized bearings. If this is just an A6 don't bother but if it's a B-series VTEC that's what I would do. All depends on if the motor's worth it. Obviously if it's a d15b2 or something don't bother....
if the bearings look like that imagine the block and the crank journals. I give 99% odds it will cost more to fix than a new motor. IF it can be fixed.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by virginia_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the bearings look like that imagine the block and the crank journals. I give 99% odds it will cost more to fix than a new motor. IF it can be fixed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha yeah new motor time.. makes me think about my oil.. I don't even remember what mileaeg was when I changed it last..
haha yeah new motor time.. makes me think about my oil.. I don't even remember what mileaeg was when I changed it last..
I start to panic if I get 200 miles past the 3,000 for oil changes. I am very religios about oil changes. You have to be if you want things to last. Even more so if you like to thrash them, dirty oil will kill a motor even faster when its abused.
Is that all the damage? I think a rebuild depends on the full extent of the damage and how much it would cost you vs. starting fresh. You might be able to get away with new bearings but be cautious. Let us know what you find out
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by virginia_dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My point is no way can those bearing look like that and not have major damage to the grank journals and the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
There isn't major damage.
I should have explained better.
Those pieces of the bearing are from the number 2 rod and end cap only.
the rest of the bearings are fine. there is zero play in the rest of the cylinders.
That was merely the fragments from the endcap and rod bearing. The rod is fine... the crank doesn't look TOO scored... I'll have to check it out again.
Like I said, this ONLY affected the number 2 rod and endcap. the rest of the cylinders, as well as the thrust bearings, are fine.
and I'd like to rebuild it, either just installing a new bearing for that cylinder only, or a complete rebuild. It's getting nearly impossible to find CRX/Civics with the stock engine (it's a D16A6).
edit: and those are HALVES of the bearing. the bearings split in the middle length-wise, then the edges chipped away. The bearings were still being held in place by the endcap and rod.
There isn't major damage.
I should have explained better.
Those pieces of the bearing are from the number 2 rod and end cap only.
the rest of the bearings are fine. there is zero play in the rest of the cylinders.
That was merely the fragments from the endcap and rod bearing. The rod is fine... the crank doesn't look TOO scored... I'll have to check it out again.
Like I said, this ONLY affected the number 2 rod and endcap. the rest of the cylinders, as well as the thrust bearings, are fine.
and I'd like to rebuild it, either just installing a new bearing for that cylinder only, or a complete rebuild. It's getting nearly impossible to find CRX/Civics with the stock engine (it's a D16A6).
edit: and those are HALVES of the bearing. the bearings split in the middle length-wise, then the edges chipped away. The bearings were still being held in place by the endcap and rod.
yeah, thats why I asked if that was all the damage. I would assume that there could be some damage to the pistons/rods ect.. from bearing debris. If driven doesn't think it all looks to bad then he should look into a rebuilt and test out his options. so best of luck to driven and sorry to see your friends motor go up
Well spun Bearing, toasted grank journal, I'd like to know what oil pump looks like now and what the cam bearing surfaces look like too, those could be hosed as well. Assume nothing. There is likely damage you don't even know about yet. Till you do a full teardown you will not know for sure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There isn't major damage.
I should have explained better.
Those pieces of the bearing are from the number 2 rod and end cap only.
the rest of the bearings are fine. there is zero play in the rest of the cylinders.
That was merely the fragments from the endcap and rod bearing. The rod is fine... the crank doesn't look TOO scored... I'll have to check it out again.
Like I said, this ONLY affected the number 2 rod and endcap. the rest of the cylinders, as well as the thrust bearings, are fine.
and I'd like to rebuild it, either just installing a new bearing for that cylinder only, or a complete rebuild. It's getting nearly impossible to find CRX/Civics with the stock engine (it's a D16A6).
edit: and those are HALVES of the bearing. the bearings split in the middle length-wise, then the edges chipped away. The bearings were still being held in place by the endcap and rod. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Driven,
Didn’t’ read all the above posts
Read quick now as I have to run…
Take it by your machine shop to have it spec'd out. The rods may or may not be able to be re-sized
Plan on a new oil pump as well. And of course ream out all the oil passages. If the oil sprays up thru rod be sure to double check that as well. Make sure the wrist pins are free from debris.
There isn't major damage.
I should have explained better.
Those pieces of the bearing are from the number 2 rod and end cap only.
the rest of the bearings are fine. there is zero play in the rest of the cylinders.
That was merely the fragments from the endcap and rod bearing. The rod is fine... the crank doesn't look TOO scored... I'll have to check it out again.
Like I said, this ONLY affected the number 2 rod and endcap. the rest of the cylinders, as well as the thrust bearings, are fine.
and I'd like to rebuild it, either just installing a new bearing for that cylinder only, or a complete rebuild. It's getting nearly impossible to find CRX/Civics with the stock engine (it's a D16A6).
edit: and those are HALVES of the bearing. the bearings split in the middle length-wise, then the edges chipped away. The bearings were still being held in place by the endcap and rod. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Driven,
Didn’t’ read all the above posts
Read quick now as I have to run…
Take it by your machine shop to have it spec'd out. The rods may or may not be able to be re-sized
Plan on a new oil pump as well. And of course ream out all the oil passages. If the oil sprays up thru rod be sure to double check that as well. Make sure the wrist pins are free from debris.
Screw you guys, I'm... going... home.

Joined: Sep 2003
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From: lovely Raleigh, NC
At the very least you're going to have to COMPLETELY disassemble the engine to clean out every oil passage and check every moving part because I'm sure some metal flakes got past your oil bypass valve. If you don't do this you are only invitiing disaster in the near future and wasting your money, time, and effort right now. While it's apart you may as well replace all the crank and rod bearings as well as most of the seals and gaskets. Since you are removing the pistons you will need to at least hone the cylinders to get the rings to seat again so maybe you'll want to replace those too. Sorry, but the idea of replacing just that one bearing is a total no-no unless you really enjoy pulling that engine and working on it some more. Trust me on this. I've rebuilt a few engines that have had spun rod bearings, and once that happens it is literally like your engine has **** its pants.
Good luck cleaning that up.
Good luck cleaning that up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tjbizzo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At the very least you're going to have to COMPLETELY disassemble the engine to clean out every oil passage and check every moving part because I'm sure some metal flakes got past your oil bypass valve. If you don't do this you are only invitiing disaster in the near future and wasting your money, time, and effort right now. While it's apart you may as well replace all the crank and rod bearings as well as most of the seals and gaskets. Since you are removing the pistons you will need to at least hone the cylinders to get the rings to seat again so maybe you'll want to replace those too. Sorry, but the idea of replacing just that one bearing is a total no-no unless you really enjoy pulling that engine and working on it some more. Trust me on this. I've rebuilt a few engines that have had spun rod bearings, and once that happens it is literally like your engine has **** its pants.
Good luck cleaning that up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep,
And it would be a good idea to have block hot tanked
Good luck cleaning that up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep,
And it would be a good idea to have block hot tanked
thanks for the recommendations.
sounds like my plan of attack is one of two items (i've got another engine to put in the car):
1. replace just the bearing and head gasket (the damn headgasket stuck to the block) and put everything back together after cleaning the oil pickup tube.
leave it for my friend until the running engine craps out. Hell, he DID forget to check the oil.
Thread regarding the Engine blow-up
2. rebuild the engine with some nice pistons, rods, valves, cam, etc, etc, etc. make a nice strong D16...
sounds like my plan of attack is one of two items (i've got another engine to put in the car):
1. replace just the bearing and head gasket (the damn headgasket stuck to the block) and put everything back together after cleaning the oil pickup tube.
leave it for my friend until the running engine craps out. Hell, he DID forget to check the oil.
Thread regarding the Engine blow-up
2. rebuild the engine with some nice pistons, rods, valves, cam, etc, etc, etc. make a nice strong D16...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red_Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i may have missed this but what was so important to race without any oil??? lol
did you win</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, first guy to blow up wins..............
did you win</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, first guy to blow up wins..............



on your buddy. i'd say rebuild.

