I've been contemplating buying some used Forgelines and putting some Yok slicks on just to try out. I was ready to pull the trigger until I realized that I may have oil pick-up problems under cornering and transitions. Anyone have any experience with slicks and oil pick-up? Realizing this makes me want to put in a Accusump or baffled oil pan pronto.

And no Knightie, I'm not having "lubrication" problems.

 

I assume you're asking about real slicks - like these A005 racing slicks - and not just R compound rubber.

I know you know the difference, but many folks mistakenly think you're talking about the usual R compounds (A032R, RA-1, V700, R3S03, etc) when you mention "slicks". Just thought I'd clarify before anyone misinterprets.

 

Indeed, real slicks and not R compounds. Though that new Kumho 710 looks very tempting...

 

If this is for a DE type environment I'd hardly say its worth the effort(although my vehicle isn't quite as bling as an NSX - $$$ is relative after all...). Even the guys running their closed-trailor'd GT3's at DEs choose to run R-compounds over slicks.

As for oil pickup problems, the extra few tenths of a G you can pull shouldn't cause a problem if you don't experience oil pickup problems right now on R compounds. I'm assuming you're using a baffled stock pan correct?

 

Oh, I see you're not even running a baffled pan right now upon rereading(hey, I've been downing a bit of the Pinot Grigio tonight, give me a break ).

This should be a REQUIRED upgrade when going to R compounds. Hell, I make my lifters tap on my engine after a hard autocross run on really modest street tires, and that's with 1 qt extra, for 7 qts total in the pan! You NSX guys won't hear the telltale signs of oil starvation thanks to your solid valvetrain, but it is still happening, and your bearings secretly hate you and are plotting to report you to the Bearing Abuse Hotline.

So - baffled oilpan before slicks DEFINITELY. Heck, you should have one now while you're running R compounds.

I'd think an ACCUSUMP is a lil' overkill, but then again, it's all relative right?

 

Just get a Moroso oil pan with built-in baffles. No oil starving through the corners. The one I picked up for the 7 is really nice. You might also be able to find a model with a crank scraper.

For the record, I'd never tease anyone about lubrication problems, that's just wrong.

 

I doubt Moroso makes an NSX specific oil pan though I'll take a look. The only one I know of is from Dali for around 500 bones.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I doubt Moroso makes an NSX specific oil pan though I'll take a look. The only one I know of is from Dali for around 500 bones. </TD></TR></TABLE>

$500 bucks isn't bad. It's better than losing oil pressure and blowing something up.

You might also look into a fuel cell, fuel starvation is almost as bad if not more so.

 

Indeed. It's on the list of "To Do Soon" mods. Fuel starvation? Surely keeping it at a 1/2 tank solves this problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ponyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Indeed. It's on the list of "To Do Soon" mods. Fuel starvation? Surely keeping it at a 1/2 tank solves this problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know how much 1/2 a tank of gas weighs? lol

Ah the mind of a road racer. lol


Thinks. *If I wear cotton underwear instead of boxers I can save 2 grams of weight.*

 

I asked the same question when I bought my NSX. I had oil pick-up problems in my Turbo Integra at the road courses with R-compounds. Thankfully the Integra ECU has a built in safety CEL that gets thrown when an air pocket gets sucked by the oil pump. With this CEL, a 5k rpm limiter is enacted. Unfortunately the NSX has no such code. So when oil starvation occurs, you just continue to take it to redline without knowing that your #2 bearing is getting toasted! (#2 is the first to go I am told) I was also informed that a baffled pan doesn't do squat for an NSX.
ACCUSUMP is the only way to go if you run club racing events no matter what tire you use.

 

Here's a blinging oil pan. But I'm thinking the ACCUSUMP is the way to go anyway. http://www.scienceofspeed.com/...2.jpg

Here's Dali's:
http://www.daliracing.com/v666...n.jpg

http://www.daliracing.com/v666...e.jpg

Or the ACCUSUMP:
http://www.daliracing.com/v666...e.jpg

 

Well, I am sure ACCUSUMP will work but it is a bit pricey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knightsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you know how much 1/2 a tank of gas weighs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

.5 * (18.6 gal) * (6 lbs / gal) = 55.8 pounds

 

Any reason why a baffled oil pan doesn't work on an NSX? If the pickup is similar to almost every other production based car(which I'm pretty sure it is), then it should work just fine at keeping oil around the pickup under lateral G's.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Def &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any reason why a baffled oil pan doesn't work on an NSX? If the pickup is similar to almost every other production based car(which I'm pretty sure it is), then it should work just fine at keeping oil around the pickup under lateral G's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wonder the same??? I will probably start out 04 with a baffled pan even though the pro racers tell me not to waste the $$ and go with accusump. I probably will also do a upgrade to the dry sump when cashflow allows.

 

If you're going to spend the money, why not just get the ACCUSUMP and be done with it?

&lt;== adding torn boots to my list of "Things to do." Dang! I'll never get this friggin' car on the track.

 

I just got the car, and need another set of rims, 2 sets of tires, brakes, springs, shocks, front lip, rear diffuser, exhaust, etc. My money will be tight at first, so the pan will have to do for now. I plan on taking the motor out of the car in a few yrs, for a hone and new pistons/rings I will do the sump then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TBell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just got the car, and need another set of rims, 2 sets of tires, brakes, springs, shocks, front lip, rear diffuser, exhaust, etc. My money will be tight at first, so the pan will have to do for now. I plan on taking the motor out of the car in a few yrs, for a hone and new pistons/rings I will do the sump then. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would suggest starting with the things that absolutely need changing, and go step by step from there. Order would be something like this:

1. Any scheduled maintenance that has not been performed on time

2. Flush brake fluid with high temperature (Cobalt, Motul)

3. Anything that is worn (almost worn out) and/or poor aftermarket quality, including:

- street tires
- brake pads
- shocks

At this point, it's good to go on the track. Then, if you still want to (and that's strictly up to you), you can consider other categories, budget permitting:

4. Performance upgrades, in roughly the following order:

- brake pads (if not already replaced per above)
- street tires (if not already replaced per above)
- exhaust
- harness
- track wheels and R compound tires
- suspension

5. Primarily cosmetic mods:

- lip
- diffuser

6. Conversion to track rat:

- engine work
- sump
- gut interior
- roll cage
- tow vehicle
- etc

 

I guess you're going with the Dali oil pan then? The ARC version is fairly expensive in comparision - $875. I think Mark is working on the ACCUSUMP with the electic valving at comparable cost. Key word: I think. I'll ask.