head build ?
pretty soon im gonna be building the head w/ some toda b's and a bunch of other stuff im just wondering what rpm's a stock bottem end can take? or what mods should b dun 2 the bottem end to withstand the higher Rpm's like 9,500+
allright, here we go. After doing head work for the last 4 months i can attempt to give alittle insight. First off, why do you feel it necessary to rev that high? Do you need to go that hight to make useable power? Stock grind spec B's are not efficient at that level anyway. If you had a custom grind perhaps you might be able to produce power at that level. As far as the bottom end, its unlimited the ammount of stuff you could do to strengthen things up. A balanced rotationg assembly is always nice. Balanced crank, balanced connecting rods, hell pistons too for that matter. Bottom end triangulation would be good, such as a girdle. Also some extensive head work would definatly help, unless breathing through a straw is you ridea of cool at that rpm level.
Basically , evaluate your goals for your car and realize that power, usealbe power can be made prior.
Basically , evaluate your goals for your car and realize that power, usealbe power can be made prior.
I suggest you up the compression a bit to make these cams really sing. Also the stock bottom end will most likely be able to take abuse up into that RPM range, however the Toda B's might stop making power around 9500.
If you really want to go all out, have your crank knife edged and balanced, and you'll be fine. Otherwise once you build the head you can rev it as high as you want. The only thing is, will you make power without the adequate compression.
If you really want to go all out, have your crank knife edged and balanced, and you'll be fine. Otherwise once you build the head you can rev it as high as you want. The only thing is, will you make power without the adequate compression.
I would recommend balancing your bottom end.
Balanced and Micropolished Crankshaft
Plastigauge Main and rod bearings
upgrading rods or if possible rod bolts
balance rods
balance pistons
replace oil pump
replace water pump
replace all gaskets and seals
Balanced and Micropolished Crankshaft
Plastigauge Main and rod bearings
upgrading rods or if possible rod bolts
balance rods
balance pistons
replace oil pump
replace water pump
replace all gaskets and seals
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suggest you up the compression a bit to make these cams really sing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also the stock bottom end will most likely be able to take abuse up into that RPM range, however the Toda B's might stop making power around 9500.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless you have head work, those cams will make as much power as your head can flow. Stock ITR heads peak at about 8,300-8,500RPMs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you really want to go all out, have your crank knife edged and balanced, and you'll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't knife edge it. Your crank doesn't sit in oil. That's where the term knife edging came from. Domestic muscle cars have cranks that sit in oil. By knife edging they cut through the oil and has less drag. Honda cranks sit way above the oil. Unless your motor is strictly for race, don't do it.
I agree.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also the stock bottom end will most likely be able to take abuse up into that RPM range, however the Toda B's might stop making power around 9500.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless you have head work, those cams will make as much power as your head can flow. Stock ITR heads peak at about 8,300-8,500RPMs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you really want to go all out, have your crank knife edged and balanced, and you'll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't knife edge it. Your crank doesn't sit in oil. That's where the term knife edging came from. Domestic muscle cars have cranks that sit in oil. By knife edging they cut through the oil and has less drag. Honda cranks sit way above the oil. Unless your motor is strictly for race, don't do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamsterBall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't blow your motor revving that high on stock pistons if you're not gonna build up right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock bottom end can take the revs. I've seen 10,000 + on mine. No problems.
Stock bottom end can take the revs. I've seen 10,000 + on mine. No problems.
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at what rpms do the toda b's stop making power? i was thinking of sendind the head out to portflow to do the head build or a local machine shop.
Modified by [ iLL ] iNt3GrA at 4:02 AM 12/16/2003
Modified by [ iLL ] iNt3GrA at 4:02 AM 12/16/2003
I would not recomend trying to build an LS engine to rev that high.... Our motor's have a really short Rod ratio (1.54:1 or so if I remember correctly). Check out team-integra.net for some more info on this, they have a few great write-ups regarding this situation.
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