Remember how I said I was overheating yesterday?

Looks like the head gasket maybe never really sealed properly or just has gotten worse. A slow coolant leak seems to be a problem and it blows bubbles on the power stroke. Looks like I have to pull the beast apart.

Oh well it was the end of the season anyway, it this now forces me to inspect everything like I should have. It's really a blessing in disguise because at least I know there's a problem before I did a whole bunch more work.

I was planning a new Intake Manifold anyway, so now it will be easier with the head off.

Moral of the story = never bore out a stock head gakset on a built motor!

So here are the plans:

1. Check/replace bearings and or piston rings
2. Sell Crower Cams and JUN valvetrain
3. Get Skunk2 Stage 2 cams and Valvetrain.
4. Sell V-AFC/chipped ecu
5. Buy Hondata/AEM EMS
6. Probably get an SMS or Hytech header.
7. Intake Manifold...Euro-R or whatever I have no idea

Should be another fun winter.

 

Glad you figured it out and it wasn't something major...

I want first dips on valve train and cams!!!!

 

If you're serious IM me cause I'm ready to roll. I'll take it out asap if I have a buyer.

I should say it's not leaking so much as just not sealing

 

IM was sent!

 

ahhhh... modded Prelude hell. welcome to it.

I used stock headgaskets bored out plenty of times, and I only had one problem out of them out of the 10 or so I've used.

Then again, my head was put on with Velcro cause it came off so much.

 

yeah I dunno todd maybe it was just time.

it's a blessing in disguise, better to know i have to pull it apart now. I think this will just ecome a yearly thing

 

Not to be all up in your business and all but, what are your plans for replacements for your head components?

 

This is not a for sale forum Joel. Did you ask a mod permission to say you are selling those parts? I didnt think so.

When you take the head off carefully inspect the intake side of the pistons to make sure they do not look pourous. A lot of times with a blown headgasket the intake side of the pistons tend to melt a little bit when under heavy load. Also, make sure to check the deck of the block as well as the head so no warpage occured.

Why dont you keep the jun valvetrain and get some stage III's? From what I've heard (more so on the B series motors) that the skunk 2's do not offer the midrange that the toda and jun's offer and are most benificial for top end gains.

 

For real....why are ya gettin rid of your valvetrain so soon?

 

Yeah I thought about it.

The only reason I would sell the valvetrain is because to run Skunk2 stage 2 you HAVE to run skunk2 springs. It's the only way you can achieve the .505 lift without coil bind. Those springs will compress more.


I like the crowers and valvetrain, I'll probably keep it. Just sell the fuel stuff, if i can.

 

Hey Joel, I am curious how hard you drive your car. Do you get on it most of the time or do you drive it normal and only get on it every once in a while??

 

pretty relaxed, but when I get on it, I get on it.

I don't pin'er at 7000rpms in 5th though, like ever. Just short bursts of speed here and there. But I wouldn't say I am a ***** when it comes to driving. I like to drive.

 

That's sucks man... pulling off the head is no fun at all but I guess since you have the manual tensioner swap it makes it a little easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
6. Probably get an SMS or Hytech header.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what happened to the local header you were supposed to get? 4-1 i believe?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. Sell Crower Cams and JUN valvetrain
3. Get Skunk2 Stage 2 cams and Valvetrain.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

will the stage 2 cams have more top end or mid range power? why the switch?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daboi630 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what happened to the local header you were supposed to get? 4-1 i believe?

will the stage 2 cams have more top end or mid range power? why the switch?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


The local 4-1 guy is still an option, but I can't supply a car for testing and fitment anymore, so by the time the car is ready to go he'll be in real production. Besides I expect a lot of hytech and sms dynos coming so I will have proven results to base the purchase on.

I already mentioned above I am keeping the cams and valvetrain, it's done me well so far

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't pin'er at 7000rpms in 5th though, like ever. </TD></TR></TABLE>

awww.

good luck with the rebuild.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But I wouldn't say I am a ***** when it comes to driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and that's one of the reasons I love you man... I love you.

 

Dropped 4 of my sleeves and had to resleeve my motor. Picture of my head gasket afterwards...

http://i.xanga.com/r1racer703/...1.JPG

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r1racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dropped 4 of my sleeves and had to resleeve my motor. Picture of my head gasket afterwards...

http://i.xanga.com/r1racer703/...1.JPG</TD></TR></TABLE>


damn guy! So was that very sudden like a big leak or was it the same way just a slight leak over time?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lone Luder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and that's one of the reasons I love you man... I love you.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah I built the motor to use it. As soon as I see open road or big curves I drop the hammer

But for daily driving around the city I'm not revving of people and wreaking havoc.

 

Joel, next time, try a Cometic gasket and copper coat it. i've had excellent luck with them in the past. no problems, and 2 of them were oversized. let me know if any of the parts i have can help you on your rebuild

on another note, are you planning on pulling the motor, or just removing the head to do the work (basically, im just curious)


Modified by Turbo Sam at 10:42 AM 12/12/2003

 

So are you going to use the stock head gasket again, or use another type?

 

I'm thinking aftermarket...like sam's suggestion.

I was planning on just pulling the head, the bottom end will be inspected, but not removed, I don't really want to do that again.

 

I thought the cometic's water jackets were smaller when compared to the OEM one? I remeber a thread from a while ago with pictures of a cometic... You could clearly see where the the water jackets on the cometic were left with a coolant residue due to being to small.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GudeH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought the cometic's water jackets were smaller when compared to the OEM one? I remeber a thread from a while ago with pictures of a cometic... You could clearly see where the the water jackets on the cometic were left with a coolant residue due to being to small.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what the residue is from... THe water jackets being to small?